How do you spend $5k on a self build!?
building my own hunting rifle
- Thread starter bskusske21
- Start date
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BrentM
Well-Known Member
That's super easy. My rifle retail is 7000.00 without smith fee's. That's if you just paid for parts at over the counter prices.
I've built very nice rifles with rem 700, manners, etc and spent far less. It all depends on what makes you happy I guess. I still use a harris s bipod on my rifles 
I wrote this a few years ago to help some gents who were thinking about custom rifles, but they were all over the place on intention v components.
Successfully Launching a build with a Gunsmith
So, you've finally decided you want to build a rifle? You've drifted off to sleep thinking about it, you've researched it all over the place, now you just need someone to build it.
Irrespective of what you are going to use as the base, you need to communicate clearly with a gunsmith about how they can turn your $$ into the rifle that you want.
1) Find a gunsmith who does the kind to work you are after. There is no point asking a renowned target rifle builder to rebarrel your lever action rifle. Some will accept the work, and do it well, others won't as it is not in their core skill set. My preferred gunsmith will only work on bolt actions - he has enough people wanting him to work on them he can afford to turn down the levers, pumps and break actions. Don't even bother asking him to work on a Martini!
2) Ask them what their build list timeframe is. Good gunsmiths are not common , but having a waiting list is not necessarily a sign of a good gunsmith, it can also indicate utter disorganisation. As a repeat customer you may find that you can exert a little influence on where your job sits in the job queue, particularly if the gunsmith knows you have more work coming there way AND you are an easy customer to do work for (organised, focussed and pay promptly).
3) Broadly describe the job to them and ask what they think. And then listen to them. You might think a short barrelled 300 Win Mag is the perfect tactical match rifle, but a good gunsmith will drag you back to what you want to achieve and then provide you with advice on how to get there. Most any gunsmith handles more rifles in a month than many of us will own in our lifetimes. All of them are regular shooters - use that experience to your benefit.
4) Ask them what they will need from you. Some gunsmiths will order all the parts for you, some prefer that you order the parts for delivery to them. Either way works, just make sure you agree that is the way to go AND ensure they know what is coming AND they inspect it upon arrival. No point finding out that the 1:8 twist barrel you ordered was actually a 1:10 twist when delivered, particularly if you find out when you can't get those VLD bullets to stabilise.
5) Document your desired build. Stipulate these things and unless there is a good reason they cannot be done, insist upon them...
6) Pass the build document to the gunsmith and ask them for an indicative price AND an agreed delivery date. A good gunsmith will be able to give you these at the very least. A great gunsmith will be able to quote you an exact number and delivery day (with an agreed variance for unforseen issues).
7) Document any variances that you agree to along the way and ensure that you both have a copy. A simple email back and forth is enough.
8) When you go and pickup the rifle have a good solid look at it. Check out the work, cycle a dummy cartridge and make sure it works the way you agreed. If it doesn't, talk with the gunsmith about that problem. Importantly, ensure that the gunsmith has done the paperwork correctly.
Successfully Launching a build with a Gunsmith
So, you've finally decided you want to build a rifle? You've drifted off to sleep thinking about it, you've researched it all over the place, now you just need someone to build it.
Irrespective of what you are going to use as the base, you need to communicate clearly with a gunsmith about how they can turn your $$ into the rifle that you want.
1) Find a gunsmith who does the kind to work you are after. There is no point asking a renowned target rifle builder to rebarrel your lever action rifle. Some will accept the work, and do it well, others won't as it is not in their core skill set. My preferred gunsmith will only work on bolt actions - he has enough people wanting him to work on them he can afford to turn down the levers, pumps and break actions. Don't even bother asking him to work on a Martini!
2) Ask them what their build list timeframe is. Good gunsmiths are not common , but having a waiting list is not necessarily a sign of a good gunsmith, it can also indicate utter disorganisation. As a repeat customer you may find that you can exert a little influence on where your job sits in the job queue, particularly if the gunsmith knows you have more work coming there way AND you are an easy customer to do work for (organised, focussed and pay promptly).
3) Broadly describe the job to them and ask what they think. And then listen to them. You might think a short barrelled 300 Win Mag is the perfect tactical match rifle, but a good gunsmith will drag you back to what you want to achieve and then provide you with advice on how to get there. Most any gunsmith handles more rifles in a month than many of us will own in our lifetimes. All of them are regular shooters - use that experience to your benefit.
4) Ask them what they will need from you. Some gunsmiths will order all the parts for you, some prefer that you order the parts for delivery to them. Either way works, just make sure you agree that is the way to go AND ensure they know what is coming AND they inspect it upon arrival. No point finding out that the 1:8 twist barrel you ordered was actually a 1:10 twist when delivered, particularly if you find out when you can't get those VLD bullets to stabilise.
5) Document your desired build. Stipulate these things and unless there is a good reason they cannot be done, insist upon them...
- Barrel length - including the length of the barrel tenon
- Barrel profile, twist rate and rifling type - even a specific brand if you are that certain
- Chamber - including neck size and throat length (what bullet will it be throated for and what is the OAL - better still supply a dummy cartridge!)
- Type of crowning job - target, hunting, recessed, etc.
- Barrel finish - blasted, beaded, sanded, polished, blued, natural, Cerakoted (exact colour), stamped calibre marking - or engraved?
- Do you want the action squared? Just the face? Bolt lugs lapped or squared (there is a difference)? Bolt body tightened in action? Action thread re-cut?
- Bolt - open the boltface/close the boltface - bushed firing pin - ultralight firing pin - conversion to a M16/Sako extractor - bolt knob, which one and how long a bolt handle?
- Does the stock need to be inlet differently for the thicker barrel/thicker recoil lug - do you want them to bed it, or will you do it yourself?
- Trigger - work it, leave it, replace it
- Sighting system - anything particular you want - ghost ring/scope rail/ramped front sight. Be specific, include part numbers or pictures
- Stockwork - what kind of a finish do you want on the stock - oil/paint/varnish/cerakote?
6) Pass the build document to the gunsmith and ask them for an indicative price AND an agreed delivery date. A good gunsmith will be able to give you these at the very least. A great gunsmith will be able to quote you an exact number and delivery day (with an agreed variance for unforseen issues).
7) Document any variances that you agree to along the way and ensure that you both have a copy. A simple email back and forth is enough.
8) When you go and pickup the rifle have a good solid look at it. Check out the work, cycle a dummy cartridge and make sure it works the way you agreed. If it doesn't, talk with the gunsmith about that problem. Importantly, ensure that the gunsmith has done the paperwork correctly.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
I've built very nice rifles with rem 700, manners, etc and spent far less. It all depends on what makes you happy I guess. I still use a harris s bipod on my rifles
Heck the scope alone is 2500 on many rifles.
scope 2400
Action 1200
Trigger 200
Barrel 750-1000
Suppressor 1000
Chassis or high end stock 1000
acceasories
Scope 500 6-24 hst
Action 300 Rem 700
Trigger $7 for new spring
Barrel 200
Ear plugs $1
Stock $600 manners
BrentM
Well-Known Member
Budget builds are fun. Done a dozen or so.Scope 500 6-24 hst
Action 300 Rem 700
Trigger $7 for new spring
Barrel 200
Ear plugs $1
Stock $600 manners
The Smith I learned from did a bunch of testing with nesika, bat and panda. He went back to Rem 700 actions. To each their own.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
You're right to each their own. That's why I don't make comments to people who build nice and higher priced rifles. I've built a ton of savages for the sole reason I could do everything but the barrel work. Same with Remington and barrel nuts. Truing the actions, lapping lugs, squaring bolt faces, and timing is all done with a little experience and education plus tools. I've built a couple prs match rifles for less than 1000 including the scope.
this one cost under 1000 without the suppressor. All the work I put into it was a labor of fun. To each their own but a nice high end rifle is personal choice and a good choice at that. It should make no difference to anyone how someone else spends their money
Attachments
Nice looking rifle. I like the camo job. I need to work on my stock camo skills. Doesn't matter what you have for components as long as it's accurate.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
Agreed. Heck I've had several off the shelf rifles perform exceptionally well. I shoot enough that replacing barrels became an issue so I started working on my own. My latest rifle is a bighorn and I have heads for each cartridge head size so I can swap barrels. Once hunting season is over I'll swap to a prs match barrel and optic. Or I can swap to go shoot prairie rats.
I love the switch barrel idea. I've made barrels for one of my Rem 700s in 6.5cm, 6.5-284, 308 and 7-08ai that are ready to swap..... but never do The 6.5-284 is obviously long so I single fed
The 6.5-284 is obviously long so I single fed
Danny1788
Well-Known Member
How are you doing all this work? using truing mandrel sets like the PTG OR Manson? how are you timing an action and what are you actually timing? ignition or primary extraction?
