Broken/Stuck case

Dry ice and some alcohol in a plastic container will freeze the die and the brass super quick then just a soft tap on a bench if the brass doesn't fall out on its own . We use to do this to install bushings in aircraft parts. It works like a charm . Don't touch anything with out gloves as it's cold enough to leave a permanent mark .
 
Easy fix, insert a round Bastard cut file that is barely big enough to fit inside the case and twist it out. When I was a teenager I would reload and shoot my 7mag brass so much it would break off in my gun at the rim. I always carried a file with me to extract it when it would happen. Probably not the best practice...
 
I use a threading tap that's large enough to cut into the case but not through the case. Simply measure the inside diameter of the case, and borrow/buy a tap that's slightly larger. Turn the tap into the stuck case and tap everything out. It normally doesn't take much effort to remove the case from the die. This has been my method for nearly fifty years.
 
Dry ice and some alcohol in a plastic container will freeze the die and the brass super quick then just a soft tap on a bench if the brass doesn't fall out on its own . We use to do this to install bushings in aircraft parts. It works like a charm . Don't touch anything with out gloves as it's cold enough to leave a permanent mark .
I agree this will work too. A bit more dangerous as the dry ice or liquid oxygen is something like minus 400 degrees. It will freeze any flesh and literally burn it off. Use with Great Caution. :eek:
 
you can also use Canned compressed air, just turn the can upside down and spray the liquid into the die, after the die is frozen use a wire cleaning brush to grab the case to pull it out. or and old military broken case extractor.
 
Had this happen.....ONCE! LOL!
pulled the head (excuse me! RIM.) off a .270 Win case in a RCBS sizing die.
You know what "Cerrosafe" is?
It's a hard, lead like material that has a super low melting point! (less than 200°F)
Remove the decapping set up if possible. Plug die just above case mouth. Fill case with melted Cerrosafe. Give it about 10 minutes to set up, then use a rod to push the case out the bottom of the die.

What I did:

I almost destroyed my stuck case remover! It WOULD NOT budge the stuck case!
It stayed stuck on the die over a year as I pondered a solution. Thank goodness, I had a backup die!

Solution: don't remember what I was doing, but I was filing on the tang of a small, chainsaw sharpening file.
Then it dawns on me, the die is super hard. The file tang is actually mild steel and can be shaped with a file.
I sharpened the file tang to a long angle on one side. An angle steep enough to force the sharpened end between the case and die wall.
THEN....I cut the head off the case and cautiously began driving (tapping?) the sharpened file tang between the case and the die body!
IT WORKED!
I had to cut the case top to bottom (bottom to top?) twice....and the case popped right out!
I have used that particular .270 die to resize 0robably thousand of .270 cases since. No ill effects!
Need to be a bit careful trying this. Most dies only have a carburized surface treatment which may not be that thick. They can be scratched or gouged if enough "beans" are put on it.
 
Need to be a bit careful trying this. Most dies only have a carburized surface treatment which may not be that thick. They can be scratched or gouged if enough "beans" are put on it.
Back last fall I was loading some 30-06 and noticed that there were scratches and gouges on the cases coming out of die. I took the die apart and looked at it through the borescope and there was a piece of metal, possible from the anvil of a primer that had imbedded itself into the die. I contacted RCBS to order a replacement and instead of charging me they replaced the sizing die under warranty. They are like Vortex Optics, lifetime warranty. :)
 
Need to be a bit careful trying this. Most dies only have a carburized surface treatment which may not be that thick. They can be scratched or gouged if enough "beans" are put on it.
Yes sir! I didn't go at it with a shop hammer! LOL! I have a small machinist hammer. It probably weighs 2 ounces.
Just a gentle tap, tap, tap, just enough to cut the brass case.
 
Need to be a bit careful trying this. Most dies only have a carburized surface treatment which may not be that thick. They can be scratched or gouged if enough "beans" are put on it.
I used to brand cattle with liquid nitrogen. Pour it in a Styrofoam cooler,put iron in until it quits boiling,clip hair from spot where brand is going,spray on rubbing alcohol, hold cold iron on spot for 1 min.

In a few days spot scabs over,when hair grows back,it comes back white as snow.
 
Get a stuck case remover.
It doesn't sound like he has enough brass left for the stuck case remover to bite into. I had a .223 case get stuck in a sizing die, I just got frustrated and bought a new sizing die. Then another got stuck in the new die. I set them both to soaking in PB blaster for a day then used an RCBS stuck case remover and both cases slid out with no problems. Borescope showed no damage inside the die.
 
I used to brand cattle with liquid nitrogen. Pour it in a Styrofoam cooler,put iron in until it quits boiling,clip hair from spot where brand is going,spray on rubbing alcohol, hold cold iron on spot for 1 min.

In a few days spot scabs over,when hair grows back,it comes back white as snow.
What's wrong with a good hot fire? You can make coffee, brand cattle and cook dinner all at the same time. No Styrofoam cooler or liquid nitrogen needed! LOL!
I can't imagine that a cold brand is any more humane than a hot brand. .....or vice versa!
 
What's wrong with a good hot fire? You can make coffee, brand cattle and cook dinner all at the same time. No Styrofoam cooler or liquid nitrogen needed! LOL!
I can't imagine that a cold brand is any more humane than a hot brand. .....or vice versa!
The cold brand saves a lot of time. The iron is ready to use in a few seconds and you can throw them on the floor mat 5 minutes after you finish the last brand. As far as pain levels, I don't want to put either one on my *** to test them.
 
The cold brand saves a lot of time. The iron is ready to use in a few seconds and you can throw them on the floor mat 5 minutes after you finish the last brand. As far as pain levels, I don't want to put either one on my *** to test them.
But...but...but...what about coffee and lunch?
LOL 😂
 

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