stuck cases with hornady

I am amazed at how many guys want to get into long range shooting and hunting but do not handload their own ammo. This amazes me because for the cost of 100 rounds of most factory 338 Lapua ammo, you could be completely set up to load good ammo. Yes it takes a little time but not much and in the end you can get vastly superior ammo to any factory load.

Handloading quality match ammo does not need to be complicated as many would make it sound like, in fact often times, the simplier you keep it the better you will be. You can take a set of relatively inexpensive RCBS loading dies, set them up properly and get ammo with neck run outs in the 0.001" range and loaded ammo with bullet run outs in the 0.002" range. Ammo loaded to this quality will shoot as good as any rifle will and vastly better then most shooters, even experienced shooters.

Not only that but your not limited to what the factories want to load for you or the specs they load to, you can taylor your ammo to your riifle for best performance.

All I am saying is that if you want to get serious about long range precision shooting, getting a long range rifle is really only part of the equation. Quality ammo is just as important as good rifle and good shooting skills, this is something I would never leave to commerical manufacturers, especially for the cost they charge for loaded ammo.
 
Are the primers glued in or is it just a water proof sealeant? Never heard of glueing primers in...

I'm kinda with Kirby on this one. Today's premium factory ammo can be some good stuff. Some of it may shoot so good that it will have a handloader chasing their tails trying to match it. However the cost alone should defer most from shooting $80+ for 20 rounds!
 
most people dont shoot very much though. So $80 would be cheaper than $400 reloader, $20 powder, $40 bullets, primers, reloading dies, brass, etc and then oh im tired of this one Im gonna sell it, lol. oh and the number one factor, time
 
most people dont shoot very much though. So $80 would be cheaper than $400 reloader, $20 powder, $40 bullets, primers, reloading dies, brass, etc and then oh im tired of this one Im gonna sell it, lol. oh and the number one factor, time

No argument from me on that. I have a couple friends that buy/sale/ trade several rifle every year. Never seem satisfied for long.

I still want to know if the primers are glued in or if it's a sealant.
 
Those are certainly valid points for sure.

I would have to guess that the primers are sealed for waterproofing, not really glued. I have never seen any primers that are glued in but I guess there could be a first.
 
I am amazed at how many guys want to get into long range shooting and hunting but do not handload their own ammo. This amazes me because for the cost of 100 rounds of most factory 338 Lapua ammo, you could be completely set up to load good ammo. Yes it takes a little time but not much and in the end you can get vastly superior ammo to any factory load.

Handloading quality match ammo does not need to be complicated as many would make it sound like, in fact often times, the simplier you keep it the better you will be. You can take a set of relatively inexpensive RCBS loading dies, set them up properly and get ammo with neck run outs in the 0.001" range and loaded ammo with bullet run outs in the 0.002" range. Ammo loaded to this quality will shoot as good as any rifle will and vastly better then most shooters, even experienced shooters.

Not only that but your not limited to what the factories want to load for you or the specs they load to, you can taylor your ammo to your riifle for best performance.

All I am saying is that if you want to get serious about long range precision shooting, getting a long range rifle is really only part of the equation. Quality ammo is just as important as good rifle and good shooting skills, this is something I would never leave to commerical manufacturers, especially for the cost they charge for loaded ammo.

Serious and cheap in my case, however, my take was to collect .338 brass and reload anyway. I didn't want to pay 120 bucks for 20 Lapua/Lapua so I bought the crap PPU. At least I have brass with reasonably hard bases....unlike Hornady....

120 for 20 is the Lapua factory stuff. You might be able to get a Lee handloading press and dies but I somehow don't see anyone even neck sizing a 338 with that little hand press unless your were a gorilla....

I have 3 presses already, 2 Dillon Precision and the Rock Chucker and all tha ancillary parphenalia so reloading the .338 is just another set of dies and a different powder.

I opened both boxes of PPU and the 250 FMJ has a glued in primer and the 250 BTHP does not

Read on.....

No argument from me on that. I have a couple friends that buy/sale/ trade several rifle every year. Never seem satisfied for long.

I still want to know if the primers are glued in or if it's a sealant.

I still have the first firearm I ever bought and I don't remember ever selling any and that leaves me with more than 1 and less than 500.....

Far as I can ascertain the primers (on the PPU rounds) appear to have some sort of sealer on them. It's oozing from the pockets, not over the primer face, but readily apparent, mine is greenish in color... I'll have to decap one to know for sure what it is, but I suspect a sealer of some sort, like the Berry's stuff you can buy, but Berry's is blue, not green.....

Those are certainly valid points for sure.

I would have to guess that the primers are sealed for waterproofing, not really glued. I have never seen any primers that are glued in but I guess there could be a first.

See above.....
 
They are still junk (PPU) and my plan is still to deactivate most of them. I believe I'll touch off about 10 more (might take 20 to get 10 good ones...:))....

Just progresses my break-in regimen for the barrel anyway.

I'm going to pop a primer out tomorrow and have a look-see on the green stuff....

As reliably as they ignite, I can probably decap the live primers with little worry....:)
 
sounds like you dont do a lot of reloading but mostly store bought stuff. fifty driver is right on, but i would also look at a couple of minor things. make sure your chamber is dry, no oil, hasnt been stored on it's butt, but muzzle down or wipe the chamber first before you fireand with these heavy boomers i dont mean wipe with a dry rag, but with alcohol and dry. you get high chamber pressure with any oil/lube/grease-even off excessively greasy hands and you get dents-pretty much all the signs you showed on your pics. i have had some problems with the older model savages. they just arent finished too well sometimes. the ejector can have a burr, the chamber might need polishing etc., but if you make sure that it is dry and you change to stouter brass and it does ok, then that is the problem. probably. there is also the double base problem i dont know that hornady does it with that load, but their scientific loads that are super hot may have double base powders. dont know where you live and shoot but these powders have extreme pressure curves when it get really cold or hot. i love the adds that hodgen has about temp insensitive powders- really, they have had these forever, no coating and not double base. alaskans have known this for years now they are making a big campaign out of it. of course there could be just poor assembly and the headspace is too much. anyway, let us know what it is and how you figured it out. always listening.:cool:
 
I had planned on going to the range with my lapua last weekend but I came down with the flu for the first time.This weather hasn't let up either just about rain for the past 2 weeks. Probably won't get much shooting done till march. Also im in south Ga. Weather here in the summer has been 115° with humidity 90%+ feels like a rain forest lol. Midwayusa needs to carry hsm 338 lapua ammo with the 300gr otm so I only wait 2 days not **** 20.
 
yeah that will do it. also, forgot, another reason for stuck cases is the oil on the locking lugs. dont forget to deoil the lugs and lug recesses.
:rolleyes:
 
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