elkaholic
Well-Known Member
Ive had to do it twice a couple times. It can be really persistent!
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Borescope Images - Help me identify...
- Thread starter Dukerugger25
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Let us know the results when your done getting it out. Theres usually more than one way to skin a cat.
Take a nylon brush wrap with a patch with JBs on both sides. Run it back and forth for 6 inches until it is black and kinda worn. Take a look with your scope. Do it again with another patch. This time use one of those aluminum cleaning rods that screw together like everyone used to use. Keep it short and spin with cordless drill. Check with the bore scope. You'll probably be done in 20 minutes.
Looks like you kinda have two rings, one where the cartridge neck ends and another in the gap between there and where the lands start. I always get rid of both of them.
Looks like you kinda have two rings, one where the cartridge neck ends and another in the gap between there and where the lands start. I always get rid of both of them.
elkaholic
Well-Known Member
The first pic shows a carbon ring at the end of the chamber. I usually only run .005" case trim to help alleviate this and soak with kroil patch between cleaning to keep it from building up.
The lighter gray area in front of that is your approx. .015" lead into the throat and then the darker area past that is throat also with fire cracking.
The mark in the following photo is likely as a result of tooling but couldn't possibly be eroded rifling, as someone mentioned, unless its a zero free bore chamber.
David Urasky
Well-Known Member
All of that is just carbon build up. Use C4 and bronze brush. Work at it back and forth, back and forth, soak, back and forth, back and forth. I had a customers gun that looked like this. Took me over an hour of actual scrubbing between soakings to clean it out. JB on a caliber specific felt wipe can be used to finish it up. But first soak and scrub.
Split a small square of 3M Scotchbright maroon in color (not the green one) to make it 1/2 as thick. Wrap around worn bore brush and secure with thread. Soak in cutting oil and run back and forth 3-4 times in bore. This also helps a factory barrel that has tooling marks. Do the same in throat to address firecracking, but may require more strokes.
ehryk
Well-Known Member
Agreed, the lifting of the flakes is the key here. In my experience, eroded throats don't have flakes that appear to lift as these do. I would just use a good non corrosive / eroding carbon solvent and leave it at that.
nicholasjohn
Well-Known Member
I think that a borescope should be owned by anybody who wants to buy one, just like everything else we buy here in the USA. Asking somebody with greater expertise about what the borescope shows is why we have forums like this one.
BallisticsGuy
Well-Known Member
I agree to a point. You're probably taking what I wrote a bit too literally. The point is, I don't see the utility in buying access to information that only makes for handwringing.
DynamicAVP
Active Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2012
- Messages
- 35
I hope you continue to take more pics and post back progress. I will be purchasing a Teslong next year. Thanks for posting these by the way.
Every lrh member will have one of these soon 
I should have invested in teslong a month ago
I should have invested in teslong a month agonicholasjohn
Well-Known Member
I take everything I read literally, since there is no tone of voice or body language/facial expression to aid in the interpretation. I'm also not having any hand-wringing problem from what I've read here.
BILLP102740
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2014
- Messages
- 2
Carbon Ring also called the dreaded donut. Its a problem for all shooters because it has a detrimental impact on accuracy. The carbon ring is extremely hard ; hard enough to break reamers for those who tried a quick road. The ring at the end of the chamber where the brass case is seated is the most important ring because as the case is pushed forward and on top of the ring by combustion, pressure and fliers climb rapidly. Chemical treatment using a phosphor bronze brush and patches inserted from the rear only up to the ring itself - not into the leade or rifling. Rotate at slow speeds using as low rpm as your cordless driver will go without stalling. Keep the ring wet by a program of hourly replacement of the chemical when your just soaking it. The key to success is not to go beyond the carbon ring. J B will also work but its labor intensive your looking at hours of round trips with frequent addition of more JB and/or patch replacement. The tighter the patch fits, the better it works. When is it time to do all this? When you begin to see totally stupid fliers. Those that have no possible explanation from conditions or human error.
Nice pics and good questions too. Its called experience - the best way to learn.
Nice pics and good questions too. Its called experience - the best way to learn.
Curious.....are there any type of rubber plugs(or any thing...maybe a heavy felt plug) a person can buy and shove down into the barrel...so a person can fill the area needing the cleaning with a solvent....let it soak really well....
