Best rifle to progressively build?

Understood. With that low of a failure rate, a smith might be the only one who would have the expertise to look at it and determine the cause, I would think. If you are lucky enough to have one in your area, I would not hesitate to take it there.
 
My 1000 yard Br rifle is a Savage with a Krieger barrel and an accutrigger and it's competitive with some of the best, I win some relays despite myself. Bolt is tuned to run with a finger, accutrigger is tuned to 2 oz and I can run it hard without tripping it, it's so light and crisp I use a weight to run the blade as the blade spring would trip it. You can tune anything almost to run well and reliable. My 28 Nosler is a Remington 700, had to move the handle so I had primary extraction, bush the firing pin hole, replace the shroud with an over size, install a Calvin elite trigger and through load development it averaged just over .5 inch groups at 300 yards.
You do have to do different work to different vintages of Savages or Rems and each needs a little different tune up but all can be servicable. The easiest to build at home is a Savage, with a little extra like a $50 barrel vice and an action wrench your easily able to do a Rem or Tikka using the same process as a Savage. The Rem still needs a little gunsmith action to correct the bolt handle issues but not a biggie.
You can also go with a Kelbly Atlas custom action, it fits all the Rem aftermarket but the trick thing is they are all timed tenons so a smith can literally chamber you a barrel fitted and timed without the action.
 
I have a few Savages, sold a couple. While they do shoot well, the receiver and operation does not give the feel of precision without doing a lot of polishing / tweaking / etc. Liking to put together the rigs myself I "graduated" up to a Stiller action and the Criterion Remage barrel. Much smoother operation, and as stated the supply of alternate triggers, stocks, etc is extensive. The Remington clone is now my preferred option for these reasons. Currently PTG has a sale on trued Remingtion actions for around $350 which are suitable for a Remage barrel. If I wanted another rifle I would jump on this right away.
 
Odd display model had jeweled bolt and smooth, for one savage. The one in the box wasnt, and not smooth. Maybe the display one was operated more. But why not the same bolt? I took the display model. Kinda annoying.

Always good to inspect the one in the box.
 
I see I can buy a used Rem 700 for fairly cheap ($400ish). Is it worth the money to buy it and have the action blue printed? Or should I look out for a Savage and go off of that? If so, which Savage should I look for? I see a lot of 111's for sale.

This will be my first long range build, I've been lurking for while now. Also, if anyone has a quick and dirty guide to doing your own build, that would be great.

I have done both so let me give my two cents. In my opinion the cheapest easiest way to go is Savage BUT the nicest way to go is Remington. It also depends on if you have an available gunsmith near by or if you will be shipping which adds to expense.



First I will discuss savage build. You can typically find a used savage in great condition in a throw away Tupperware stock for $300. You MUST watch out for which model and age as savage has changed a LOT over the years. I would first pick out a stock you want. For example a Bell and Carlson. Find out which availability of type of savage you need to fit that stock and go find that savage. For example the Savage 110 came in a top bolt release or bottom bolt. Basically the same rifle but release button is in different positions which changes the availability of stocks you can pick out.There are PLENTY of them and wont take you long. The stock will cost you about $250-300, the rifle will be $300, then get a pre-fit barrel from a good company like mcgowen or any of the others for about $350 and then spend another $100 on the tools to do the rebarrel yourself which is EASY on a savage. This WILL give you a long range shooting rifle with I guarantee sub MOA accuracy and even better with reloads. Now if you decide to do the Remington you will have many more choices on stocks and parts...etc BUT you cannot do the rebarrel yourself AND you will likely want it blue printed. The stock and barrel themselves will cost the same as the savage but you will spend 150$ extra to have a gunsmith rebarrel on top of the cost of the barrel and then blue printing can be about 300$ so in my opinion for the same accuracy you will spend about $500 more on the Remington. The Remington, however, will be nicer looking and EVERYONE loves a built Remington 700. Im a cheap skate and keep doing my own Savage rifles but my Remington is definitely the nicest of the bunch. You can now also do what is called a "REM-AGE" barrel nut on a Remington 700 which is essentially using the savage barrel nut system allowing YOU to change the barrels yourself BUT it will not look as nice as a factory Remington (because of the nut) but this gives you the best of both worlds....however...you will likely need to inlet every stock you buy for that Remington due to the new barrel nut but that shouldn't be hard at all.
 
"RR" S/N 700 (the problem model) 5R Milsepec .300 WinMag

Can you explain this ? Just an old dummy here who has a 5r stainless 26inch version

The "RR" serial numbered 700 rifles seem to be the most prevalent model that has timing and extraction issues, according to lots of sources, and gunsmiths.
 
"RR" S/N 700 (the problem model) 5R Milsepec .300 WinMag

Can you explain this ? Just an old dummy here who has a 5r stainless 26inch version

I suspect with well over 5 million sold just in the US there are bound to be dissenters. I have owned a few of the 5R Milspec 700's in 300WM and 308. All had superb accuracy and proved to be very reliable. IMO, not much building needed with the Milspecs Only a trigger replacement with the Mark-X.

Typical performance I've seen with all of mine. Factory Federal Match. M43 is a handload: 308, Varget/168 SMK's. All 5 shot groups at 100/200 yards.
 

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I never thought about the nut on savages. Cosmetics are for chicks. Not sure why so many call the ugly. Not like it stands out, or is blocky or big.


The magazine turn me off. Not positive latching. Load poorly from the top, since scopes don't fit long actions well.
 
I have one 7 mag. build now with Rem action and bench mark barrow that I use out to 2,000yds but hunt out to 1,200yds for my limit on game. The action is lose-ing up from where it was (blue-printed) to, I am now getting another one build up with a custom action and a Brux barrow ..

I also have a 6.5x284 custom with over1800 rounds fired that the action has not loosened up. that is why I am going with a custom action and the barrow will be 28" long..
But I shoot out to 2,000yards and on most days hold one MOA groups of 5 shots at 1,000yds.

If you shoot at less range then you may get by with a factory action..


Clifford
 
So it sounds like if I want to be able to do most of the work myself I should find a Savage action? With a Remington, I'm either going to have to pay to have someone blueprint it or buy a blueprinted action. Is that right?
 
So it sounds like if I want to be able to do most of the work myself I should find a Savage action? With a Remington, I'm either going to have to pay to have someone blueprint it or buy a blueprinted action. Is that right?

No, you can simply do a barrel swap, and that's the only advantage to the Savage action. It is still not a blueprinted and squared action. You will still need to have that done to ensure tolerances are at their best. Just like any other action, including most customs.

For a truly blueprinted and squared action (regardless of brand) you will still have to pay a gunsmith to chuck it up and do his magic. So, in my opinion, you might as well start with a better action with better resale and better aftermarket options...Like the Remington 700.
 
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