Best rifle to progressively build?

You know what, this is absolutely retarded, and I'm not going to argue with you anymore. This is my final post in this stupid thread, that you have managed to de-rail and destroy. My apologies to the OP for helping this trainwreck take place...

Here is my final response...

You know nothing of metal fabrication or how to rebuild/strengthen the integrity of metal structures. If you did, you would understand why drilling a hole, then filling it back in with an equal piece of metal, the same diameter, just longer, will NOT weaken the structure or integrity of the receiver walls. If you simply drilled a hole, and left it there, then YES, that would weaken it. As for the tri-pin setup, that will increase receiver strength at the face of the receiver by holding it tightly together from 3 separate directions in a spot that normally receives a lot of pressure and stretching from the inside, out. THAT is how it strengthens it. I have had to do this many times over the years with custom projects (not gun related, but on a much larger scale), and it's the same concept, just different medium.

You don't have to take my word, but just to give you a bit of my background with metal... I have been a custom metal fabricator for over half of my life, and grew up around a steel shop from the age of 6, could weld (without supervision) by the age of 12, and have been custom building metal parts since. And yes, I am still a Specialist Welder and custom metal fabricator to this day. If you really want to win an argument with someone about metal integrity or fabrication or alteration, then you might want to pick someone else to argue with about this subject. I do not know everything, but the things that I DO know, I know them well. Believe me or not, that's your choice, but it's the truth. I gain nothing from lying to people. This forum is about helping people, and not about who's right or who's wrong. You see this as a competition, which it is not, it is opinion, backed with facts.

As for your price list there, most of that crap is completely unnecessary. Blueprint the 700, cut and thread the bolt handle for an aftermarket knob, and pin the lug...DONE! No extra unnecessary sh!t that is mostly for aesthetics. If you want it, that's fine, but don't say it's necessary. And yes, if you want to add it all up, sure it's going to cost more than an action that was purpose-designed to have those features from the get-go. But once again, not everyone is after that. Also, well-known gunsmiths prices are typically a lot higher than local work...Just FYI.

Once again, sorry to the OP, I will no longer be part of this circus of derailment.
 
You were not derailing this thread, nor am I. I have been nothing but respectful towards you, and we were, up until you threw a temper tantrum, having a reasonable discussion regarding the pros and cons of different action build options, which is the focus of this tread.

You clearly think Remington is the way to go, which is fine. Some people prefer Savages; thats fine too. I'm just offering a different option for the op.

You have once again come back to your authority on the subject. I don't care that you're a welder. I don't care that you run a metal shop. I don't care that could weld at 12. I don't think that you're lying about knowing about the subject, but all you have done here is explain why how three pins prevents shearing or shifting (which I believe) and SAY that "drilling a hole doesn't weaken the action" and "I won" without explaining why this is the case.

At best, pinning the action will return the walls of the action to its original tensile strength, there is no way that I can conceive of from a physics background, that this will be the case.

If I had a piece of steel, one inch thick, into the side of which I drilled a hole and then filled with an interference fitting piece of stock and then put in a arbor press, I submit to you that piece of steel would yield before an untouched piece of the same steel.

So again, extending the olive branch, I respectfully ask you to explain why a pinned action will resist catastrophic failure better than unpinned action.

I will say that I take exception to your assessment of my price and action comparison. I shoot every day, and have use for all of those features, but in the interest of continuing this thread amicably and and getting an answer to my question above I'm gonna let it go.

Best
 
Most if not all custom actions without an integral recoil lug are pinned and it makes absolutely no difference, most custom actions are 1.350 ish in diameter so again no difference than pinning a Remington!!
The cost list on the Rem action was the most expensive route, there is $505 in bolt work in the list, a PTG single piece bolt with more options than listed is $232 and will be about $260 with extractor and ejector, sell your old bolt for $150 and your at $110 for the bolt. If you get an over sized shroud and fit it to the bolt, radius the lugs, nip the detent notch and set the timing a little to the trigger you'll have a Rem that will run smoother than a lot of customs.

Right now you can buy a blue printed Rem action with a fitted PTG bolt with rail for $400 ish give or take on options from PTG.
 
Most if not all custom actions without an integral recoil lug are pinned and it makes absolutely no difference, most custom actions are 1.350 ish in diameter so again no difference than pinning a Remington!!
The cost list on the Rem action was the most expensive route, there is $505 in bolt work in the list, a PTG single piece bolt with more options than listed is $232 and will be about $260 with extractor and ejector, sell your old bolt for $150 and your at $110 for the bolt. If you get an over sized shroud and fit it to the bolt, radius the lugs, nip the detent notch and set the timing a little to the trigger you'll have a Rem that will run smoother than a lot of customs.

Right now you can buy a blue printed Rem action with a fitted PTG bolt with rail for $400 ish give or take on options from PTG.

Thank you Rhian.
 
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