bedding and stiffening flimsy factory plastic stocks

[archdlx]

here is a couple of links for your perusal...
hope this does not break any posting rules!
CanadianGunNutz.com

CanadianGunNutz.com

I am going to do my Rem 300 RUM forend with either the keystock method, or use 2pcs 3/8's S.S. tubing filled with lead shot(one on either side of center). The butt is going to get spray foam, devcon/lead shot mix, to get it to around 10-11 lbs. Heavy enough for long range, light enough for packing/quick shots. Not sure whether I will add extra swivel for Harris or not....any thoughts on that idea?
Hope these links help guys.

Archdlx

 

[royinidaho]

I shot my altered tupperware (Remington a way old BDL type mentioned in above post on this thread.

For comparison the previous stock, a highly modified BDL wood stock would hold pretty much 1/4 MOA at 200 yds, my zero distance.

I bore sighted on Molly's Nipple, a land mark about 5 miles away. This ususally gets me on the 8 1/2 X 11 target paper.

The Cartridge is a 338 RUM w/300 gr SMKs w/101gr US-869. Also a Holland brake is installed.

I fired the first shot. The scope never left the target backer 4'x4'. But there was a helluva smack to my shoulder that I wasn't expecting. Instead of about like an unbraked 270 Win w/ 140s it was more like an unbraked '06 w/a good hot 165 gr load.

It wasn't a push through recoil but a smack and release type of thing. In a tee shirt it kind of hurt but not for very long and this evening there is no ache or pain.

I think the difference is the two bit REM recoil pad which is as hard as a rock and of a small profile. The previous stock had a grind to fit Limbsaver what was full size at the but and tapered to the stock. Looked funny but sure felt good. I'll go that route on this one also.

The intent was to determine if the tupperware stock shot well enough to do the final paint job. The paint job is worth about 10X the value of the stock.

After the bore site job the first shot went off the paper in the bottom left of the target. I covered with a black sticky.

I then adjusted 2.7 MOA up and 2.5 MOA to the right.

The second shot showed that the right adjustment was spot on.

The up adjustment was almost twice what it was supposed to be. Hmmmmm?

I then adjusted down almost 1/2 of what I had just gone up for the third shot.

The third shot was as they say "dead nuts" whatever that means

Not a group but good enough to shot that the stock shoots. It's also quicker to get on target. When snap pointed on flying birds the bird is always in the scope. Usually more towards the center.

Also it shot well enough to determine that Scope windage adjustment are as advertised 1/8 MOA but the elevation is somewhere around 0.2

The elevation clicks won't hurt as the mil dots are spot on and in the first focal plane.

If the new bullets I'm experimenting with even come close to expectations with a 300 yd zero drop at 1K will be right at 5 Mils. Which suits me.

Stock modification details:

Hawg'd out the recoil lug to fit the 1/4" thick recoil lug then epoxied it fully.

All other modification were to the outside. Modified the comb. Added a palm swell and did away with the checkering.

I'll post pics when painted.

Pic of todays target:

 

[linksmechanic]

Roy I used a plastic welding fit from Eastwood and I welded in 2 aluminum round stock pillars in a sps varmint stock and then drilled holes where the action sits and used epoxy to bed the action. I shoots 1/2 moa all day long until it fouls.

 

[royinidaho]

ach-0h!!!

I spent a few hours building my bipod for the 338 RUM and tupperware stock.

Previous shots from a pedestal rest show things were plenty solid.

Then, I mounted the bipod. The vertical flex in the forearm was about as expected.

HOWEVER, the twist is astronomical and was totally unexpected!!!! Almost a deal breaker but overcoming challenges is the name of the game.

The flex appears to begin a the front of hte recoil lug which is a heavy duty Holland lug about 1/4" thick.

If my remarks regarding excessive flex regarding B&C Carbalite stocks I appologize and retract any negative vibes I may have sent.

Linksmechanic, there is an SPS stock on the way

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Any recommendations to improve a Sako Finnlight stock?

 

[royinidaho]

MTRman:

Post a pic of the stock from showing the inletting and barrel channel.

I'm sure I have recommendations that I haven't even thought of yet.


I took some pics of what I did to my Rem tupperware stock and will post when I arount tuit but shortly.

Weather's nice to day going to to some shooting and playing with grandkids

 

[MontanaRifleman]

I lost my digital camera last year on a backpacking trip and haven't replaced it yet. As soon as I get my NF scope paid for I'll get a new camera The forearm is hollowed out like a tough. I was reading another thread about possibly setting in a steel rod or carbon shafts in the forearm in the bedding material. Also wonder about injecting expandable foam in the hollow area behind the pistol grip? Any thoughts on that?

 

[gamehauler]

I read somewhere that somebody used old arrows
since they were free and lightweight.
Mike

 

[overbore]

2003 LG nationals

( Br Championship) was won by a first time stocker using a 8" vented bedding block glued into a plain vanilla stock. I use three of them including one in a "tupper- ware" stock. These are being made again by a great machinist in the mid -west. If anyone is serious, inquire and I will give you his e-mail. Cordially, Overbore

 

[royinidaho]

Here's what I did

A piece of 1/2 x 2 extruded aluminum.

Cut to length of the trough in the forearm

Cut to fit loosely in the trough. Wanted space for JB Weld.

Roughed up the sides of the aluminum piece w/the band saw. Figure the rougher the better.

Roughed up the bottom and sides of the trough. Dremel, end mill, sand paper.

Results are really good. There is still flex but not much. I'll shoot it and post results. If they're good that is

Original channel w/primer from paint job.

Roughed channel.

Roughing the Aluminum piece

The roughed piece.

Piece in the channel.

 

[J E Custom]

Roy

It looks like you have it wired.

How many hours have you got in this type of fix for tupper ware
stocks? A lot I imagine.

That is why I cant use them on a customer's rifle (To many labor hours
to make it work as well as a laminate and they wont work with heavy
barrels , Plus they still look like a tupper ware stock.

I can buy (I know it's not the same) a nice stock for less than I can fix one of
the plastic stocks and the customers save money.

I understand fixing things your self (I am among the worst at wanting to modify,
change,improve and just screw with things) but I spend the customers money
like it,s mine.

No offense but I will continue to sell these takeoff stocks "CHEEP" because like
the old saying goes," IT's hard to make a silk purse out of a sows ear" even though
you may have done it.

Good luck
J E CUSTOM

 

[lurcher]

Well I eventually went with a wildcat composites stock out of Canada, he had one on the shelf with a carbon fibre fore-end which he let me have for a good price and he stumped for the international freight to NZ, was the first time he had sent a stock to NZ.

looking at Roys set up I wonder if would be possible to either bend or weld up a piece of alloy like that which followed the taper of the fore-end. You could fit it in the other way up. Drill and tap it at a couple of points along the bottom stick some screws in from the bottom and glue it?

 

[royinidaho]

J.E. Custom,

The amount of work sure isn't worth it on the tupperware stocks.

I appreciate your consideration for your customers.

I feel that a smith's time shouldn't be burdened with exterior stock work.

Except for bedding.

Right now I happen to have time on my hands and consider the time spent on the stocks as an education though the tuition is a bit high.

I have way more time in the bipod. That's whats really time consuming especially when my lathe/mill is a clunker and my skills/experience is ziltch. However I've found that I can make better time with the band saw and belt sander as with the mill.

I'm just an old fart having fun, which is really the bottom line for me.

Here's a pic of the ol' girl showing another of my weird ideas regarding the bipod sitting on soil vs a hard surface.

Also just tested it this afternoon and she's holding ~1/2 MOA at my zero distance of 200 yds which it did with the previous stock

.

 

[BHP9]

Roy:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but a reality check here.

It looks good and I hope that it worked for you BUT if you have to do that much work to a flimsy stock, then the stocks a *** and should be replaced with a McMillan, Manners, Robertson Composites, B&C etc.

lurcher:

Save your money for one of the stocks listed above.

Roy:

I just noticed that it appears to not make any difference to the accuracy, which IMO was a total waste of time, but if you enjoyed playing with it, great, and you got educated in the process.