Help with stiffening a stock

[65WSM]

I like to use graphite cloth from Tap Plastics and a zero shrink epoxy resin from them. Epoxy resin because it bonds to other materials better than other resins. If you have shrinking resin, then your bedding continues to shrink away from the action ruining the bedding. I have used up to 8 layers (on a B&C Metalist stock on a M70) to make it fit. The photos are of 4 layers on a Walnut Richards foreend.

 

[elimsprint]

I get square carbon fibre tubing from the local hobby shop and use Gorilla Glue (polyurethane) mixed with a small amount of water (makes it foam up) to glue them in. Very light, does not change the balance of the stock like the epoxy and works very well.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Dr. Vette said " Which brand?
There are a lot of epoxy products on Aircraft Spruce. " Any good two part epoxy. I get the combined two tube epoxy at the hardware store. They are small batch that mix automatically when you push the plunger.

I meant which brand of epoxy foam, since he specifically mentioned that.
Yes, epoxy itself is easy to obtain.

 

[Mram10us]

I get square carbon fibre tubing from the local hobby shop and use Gorilla Glue mixed with a small amount of water (makes it foam up) to glue them in. Very light, does not change the balance of the stock like the epoxy and works very well.

Change the balance like epoxy? I add less than 2 ounces of epoxy to a normal Rem 700 stock. How much does gorilla glue and water save?

 

[ntsqd]

I would suggest when mixing the epoxy that you add microspheres. That will add further stiffness and also reduce how much weigh you're adding at the same time.

 

[elimsprint]

Change the balance like epoxy? I add less than 2 ounces of epoxy to a normal Rem 700 stock. How much does gorilla glue and water save?

1.5oz I'd guess It weighs almost nothing and is really stiff, specially if you put the square tube in on edge, corners up, down, left, right.

The last one I did, a Savage Tupperware, it added 9 grams, 1/3oz

 

[Mram10us]

1.5oz I'd guess It weighs almost nothing and is really stiff, specially if you put the square tube in on edge, corners up, down, left, right.

The last one I did, a Savage Tupperware, it added 9 grams, 1/3oz

As I was, Sir

 

[johnnyu799]

I HAVE few RUGER'S.. in 6.5 Creedmoor and in 6.5 Grendel great shooter's THE GRENDEL uses ar 15 MAGS so I had to use the factory stock I used a heat gun I got from home depot for 10 dollars to straighten handguard be careful it will melt handguard,i used a pipe to center it. i sanded the grove in the handguard to make it free-floating. I took used spent primers and dropped them in the voids in handguard in the plastic stock so I would not use so much epoxy(FAMOWOOD) and stiffen it. I used FAM0WOOD GLAZE COAT bar shine 20 DOLLAR FOR QUART YOU CAN GET SmALLER AmOUNTS. Follow mixing instruction to the (T ).I got it at home depot... I POURED IN THE BUTTSTOCK USED NO USED PRIMERS THERE. I used just solid famowood glaze coat careful it will come out of grip so watch for it. You can use spent primers if you want to make the buttstock heavier and not use so much famowood. But the solid famowood made it plenty heavy. I put a cheek rest on it and painted it camo came out great. Got some use out of the pounds of spent primers I had laying around....ALSO To avoid all this just get a Magpul stock they don't make them for the Grendel Ruger American predator because of the ar-15 mags ....But make it for all short actions ..I GOT IT ON THE 6.5 CREEDMOOR.... it's GREAT AND NO WORK.

 

[Dosh]

Tried stiffening my grandson's American Tupperware stock with carbon shafts and epoxy. Helped for a while, but we discovered separation and a few cracks. Replaced Tupperware with a nice Boyd's and it shoots amazing, .715" at 200 yards.

 

[basinman]

You should sand the side that is close to touching then shoot the rifle to see how it shoots. I have an American Predator in 6.5 CM that I did this to and it shoots sub MOA with the factory stock.

 

[wonderman4]

When I have a crappy plastic stock to deal with, I get out the Dremel and route the channel on each side to fit a 1/8" or 5/32" welding rod, then epoxy the channel with Loctite Heavy Duty Epoxy

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/build/epoxies/loctite_epoxy_heavyduty.html

 

[freddiej]

okay we have a great start to how you do strengthen a fore end.
a drill is needed, one that will allow you to put the end cuts of arrow shafts or screwed up arrow shafts down the long axis of the fore end. 4 to 7 should do. 5/16" or 1/4" shafts are the norm if memory serves me. run the shafts into the holes, mix up epoxy, marine tex, or anything not water permeable/soluble.. JB Weld will dissolve in water.. just so you know. a long time ago I repaired a water pipe with JB weld and it lasted 2 days. pour the solution into the fore end over the mechanically locked in arrow shafts and that should make your fore end very substantial and nearly immovable.

 

[Liberator]

I meant which brand of epoxy foam, since he specifically mentioned that.
Yes, epoxy itself is easy to obtain.

In my original post I stated I use an 85% hollow glass micro spheres from Aircraft Spruce to 15 % epoxy to blend into epoxy foam. It's very light and strong. Chuck

 

[John Klingenberg]

If it shoots well enough, mine does, just leave it. Get a better stock as he gets bigger