Agreed. I turned a couple pieces of bar stock and sprayed adhesive on the bar and 80 grit paper. They last pretty well. Sockets are even better
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Help with stiffening a stock
- Thread starter arawls88
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HARPERC
Well-Known Member
....If you consider 30 minutes to remove the stock, mix the epoxy with a drill, cut 6 slits and pour the epoxy "a lot of work" then okIt is waaaaay easy and works great......
I'm kind of a menace with tools-Without someone to apply the release agent I'm screwed. I just can't picture being able to dial the phone with a stock stuck to at least both hands. Yeah I said dial a phone for you laughing youngsters.
Liberator
Well-Known Member
I use epoxy foam to fill the pockets in the forearm. The epoxy foam is 85% micro hollow glass beads [ available from Aircraft Spruce ] and 15 % epoxy. Use a dust mask. It is like a putty when mixed and spreads well into the fore end. Really stiffens with out the weight. It works well to bed the action also.
Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
TheLongRanger83702
Well-Known Member
I did the Viagra method. The length of pull grew enormously.Mmmm try 1/2 of a viagra. If that doesn't work use duct tape and popcicle sticks.
2nd on the Boyd's replacement. I tried a variety of methods for a Savage Axis Tupperware blob I had years ago. The carbon arrow was the most effective stiffener with epoxy for that blob. But in the end wood was the best way to go and it looks a lot nicer as well.
112Savage
Well-Known Member
I bought a left handed Ruger American Predator with the intent of changing the stock. I chose a Boyd's XX Claro walnut. First, wood is heavier than plastic.
Second, Boyd's provides "Y" blocks but they don't go all the way through the wood in the stock so ideally you should still place pillars between the Y block and the magazine catch.
Third, the magazine catch and trigger guard are plastic unless you pay to upgrade.
Fourth and lastly, the finish Boyd's places on walnut it like mud and very tough so I scraped all the way to bare wood and put 15 coats of tru-oil on it.
Now, for the good news these upgrades shrank groups considerably. If I were to do this project again, I would look really hard at the Bell and Carlson replacement stock.
I will post a photo of my rifle when I get home tonight.
Second, Boyd's provides "Y" blocks but they don't go all the way through the wood in the stock so ideally you should still place pillars between the Y block and the magazine catch.
Third, the magazine catch and trigger guard are plastic unless you pay to upgrade.
Fourth and lastly, the finish Boyd's places on walnut it like mud and very tough so I scraped all the way to bare wood and put 15 coats of tru-oil on it.
Now, for the good news these upgrades shrank groups considerably. If I were to do this project again, I would look really hard at the Bell and Carlson replacement stock.
I will post a photo of my rifle when I get home tonight.
I bought 2 Ruger Americans. Both are way too light and the stocks and bottom plastic are pretty "Tupperware-ish". One stock absolutely would not stay still. I sanded the barrel as described above twice! It moved again! I got aggravated, bought a Boyt and bottom metal. Now all is well and the rifle shoots in the .4's. The other stock has never moved?!? Go figure? It is still too light though.
112Savage
Well-Known Member
https://www.stockysstocks.com/bell-and-carlson-medalist-ruger-americantm-sporter-stock.html
$300-$359 with a full length bedding block going from the wrist to the sling stud. 2.25 pounds. Its really not worth messing with the original stock other than weight and LOP.
$300-$359 with a full length bedding block going from the wrist to the sling stud. 2.25 pounds. Its really not worth messing with the original stock other than weight and LOP.
Liberator
Well-Known Member
Dr. Vette said " Which brand?
There are a lot of epoxy products on Aircraft Spruce. " Any good two part epoxy. I get the combined two tube epoxy at the hardware store. They are small batch that mix automatically when you push the plunger.
There are a lot of epoxy products on Aircraft Spruce. " Any good two part epoxy. I get the combined two tube epoxy at the hardware store. They are small batch that mix automatically when you push the plunger.
I've done the carbon arrow method with great success. Takes a bit of time to cut the stock such that the arrows are arraigned nicely. Then I used JB weld to pour in around them to set them up. Roughened the outside of the arrow shafts with sand paper for better bond. There was no torsional flex on the stock, period. However, it didn't do a whole long for bending towards the barrel (up and down direction) but this is to be expected since the weak point of the stock is at the lug and you can't do much strengthening at that location.
My personal first choice now would be to use Grate Stuff foam. Loctite makes a high density foam like it as well. This should help out and be even lighter and more cost effective than the arrows or filling with epoxy. If its not good enough, its easy to remove and try another method.
My personal first choice now would be to use Grate Stuff foam. Loctite makes a high density foam like it as well. This should help out and be even lighter and more cost effective than the arrows or filling with epoxy. If its not good enough, its easy to remove and try another method.
I'm not investing much in this rifle. And while I think the Boyd stocks looks nice I think replacing the compact stock with full size is defeating my overall purchase of buying this rifle to start. I'm going see how it shoots before I tinker with it just In case it shoots fine as is
Check out Terminal Ballistics Research out of New Zealand. They have A product Called Stock Stiffener. It comes as a liquid. Prep your stock by grinding small slots in the barrel channel and sand all surfaces that will come into contact with the material. Make sure the material comes all the way back to the recoil lug bedding. Depending upon the the type of bedding used, it will bond with the recoil lug bedding and form a solid block to the end of the forearm. Once the stock is prepped, level it in a vise and pour the liquid in until you have reached the desired level. Used in conjunction with Steel Bed bedding material from Brownell's, I have have bedded 5 Weatherby Vanguards with great success.
