Bedding a factory Remington synthetic stock.
- Thread starter CHARLIEDUECE65
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I have a SPS Varmint with one of the cheap remington stocks that I bedded. I shot a full box of black hills at 0.6 - 0.5 MOA. Everything else on the rifle was factory.
The stiffness of the stock isn't an issue if you fill up the length of it with Devcon. You can save yourself a good $500. I mean once you pillar bed and epoxy the forend (I did all mine myself, 3 layers of duct tape under the barrel will float it to the same specs as a McMillan. I drilled out space for 2 aluminum rods to save epoxy) I'm not sure that a McMillan is actually gonna give you any better results. What would the difference be? Less compression under the action? Do these things add up to any noticeable gain in accuracy? I'm gonna buy a McMillan one of these days but I've got a few rifles I need to pick up first. And I'm definitely happy having learned a bit of the trade hands-on.
The stiffness of the stock isn't an issue if you fill up the length of it with Devcon. You can save yourself a good $500. I mean once you pillar bed and epoxy the forend (I did all mine myself, 3 layers of duct tape under the barrel will float it to the same specs as a McMillan. I drilled out space for 2 aluminum rods to save epoxy) I'm not sure that a McMillan is actually gonna give you any better results. What would the difference be? Less compression under the action? Do these things add up to any noticeable gain in accuracy? I'm gonna buy a McMillan one of these days but I've got a few rifles I need to pick up first. And I'm definitely happy having learned a bit of the trade hands-on.
permaculture
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2011
- Messages
- 96
Hi
I have a Remington ADL Sporter and would like to do something like this. I think I understand the epoxy part from this thread
Bedding A Rifle
but I don't quite understand the pillar thing from page 2 of this thread. Can someone please link me to more information? I did find this link on it - http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
but is the pillaring just an extra step? Would free-floating and bedding be sufficient for a novice like myself?
How much Dev-Con would I need? Midway has a tube and a 1lb tub.
Thanks!
I have a Remington ADL Sporter and would like to do something like this. I think I understand the epoxy part from this thread
Bedding A Rifle
but I don't quite understand the pillar thing from page 2 of this thread. Can someone please link me to more information? I did find this link on it - http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html
but is the pillaring just an extra step? Would free-floating and bedding be sufficient for a novice like myself?
How much Dev-Con would I need? Midway has a tube and a 1lb tub.
Thanks!
Hookturnr
Well-Known Member
The pillars provide the solid mounting point for the action, definitely the key here. As for the devcon, you'd be into the tub if you plan on filling the foreend as well.
permaculture
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2011
- Messages
- 96
Thanks for the reply. Can any one recommend some inexpensive pillars?
savatage
Well-Known Member
I`m going to pursue this alot more to my 700 now...Thanks for bringing this old thread to the 1st page.The point that was brought up about the stock being the cheap sps or the hs version has me to believe mine is the hs...Not to sky-jack this thread ,but all this info is appreciated for sure.I may just put in a nice trigger and go to the bench 1st...gun) Gary
I pillar bedded mine last weekend. I used "ernie the gunsmith" pillars.
I used a felt pen with 80 grit sandpaper to open up the forend of the stock. A D size was perfect for the action area, from the recoil lug clear back to the tang.
I then wrapped tape around the end of the barrel and a cpl wraps at the tang to set the barrel into the stock at the correct height. (the tang area was sitting low originally). The tape also made sure the pillars were above any stock mtl.
I then accra glassed only the pillars in place, after drilling out the 2 holes.
I dbl checked my fit, making sure I had complete clerance and th epillers were indeed above all surrounding mtl, dremmeled the lug area for bonding surface, then accra glassed the action area and recoil lug area, as well as the first pocket in front of the lug and a little bit of epoxy at the real tang area.
I only taped the btm of the lug, all other lug surfaces were net fit. I used tape on the sides of the trigger assy to get a nice fit in the trigger area as well as to set the "barrel clocking". There is nothing else to set the rotation angle of the barrel since the lug area is oversized and the trigger assy is undersize.
Tip #1, tape the barrel just above the stock. I used KIWI wax as a release agent and it was a bich to get it off the barrel. Epoxy didn't stick but MEK barely touched the KIWI.
After I was done, I dremmeled the 2 forward pockets and put maybe 3/16" worth of accra glass in there. That stiffened up the forend and removed the ability for it to "twist". I also made sure the pillars were slightly above the stock in the btm metal area.
The action screws tighten the btm metal and barrel to the pillars, the epoxy is just a non load bearing surface around the action/lug area.
Use the handle of a hammer and smack the "slightly backed out" action screws to pop the barrel out. Beating on the end of the barrel won't do much if the lug has a net fit on all sides.
This project was "practice" so I could learn before I did my Greybull stock. Turns out the Greybull showed up the day I finished so I haven't shot the SPS stock yet.
I used a felt pen with 80 grit sandpaper to open up the forend of the stock. A D size was perfect for the action area, from the recoil lug clear back to the tang.
I then wrapped tape around the end of the barrel and a cpl wraps at the tang to set the barrel into the stock at the correct height. (the tang area was sitting low originally). The tape also made sure the pillars were above any stock mtl.
I then accra glassed only the pillars in place, after drilling out the 2 holes.
I dbl checked my fit, making sure I had complete clerance and th epillers were indeed above all surrounding mtl, dremmeled the lug area for bonding surface, then accra glassed the action area and recoil lug area, as well as the first pocket in front of the lug and a little bit of epoxy at the real tang area.
I only taped the btm of the lug, all other lug surfaces were net fit. I used tape on the sides of the trigger assy to get a nice fit in the trigger area as well as to set the "barrel clocking". There is nothing else to set the rotation angle of the barrel since the lug area is oversized and the trigger assy is undersize.
Tip #1, tape the barrel just above the stock. I used KIWI wax as a release agent and it was a bich to get it off the barrel. Epoxy didn't stick but MEK barely touched the KIWI.
After I was done, I dremmeled the 2 forward pockets and put maybe 3/16" worth of accra glass in there. That stiffened up the forend and removed the ability for it to "twist". I also made sure the pillars were slightly above the stock in the btm metal area.
The action screws tighten the btm metal and barrel to the pillars, the epoxy is just a non load bearing surface around the action/lug area.
Use the handle of a hammer and smack the "slightly backed out" action screws to pop the barrel out. Beating on the end of the barrel won't do much if the lug has a net fit on all sides.
This project was "practice" so I could learn before I did my Greybull stock. Turns out the Greybull showed up the day I finished so I haven't shot the SPS stock yet.
Last edited:
REDHEAD
Well-Known Member
I find interesting - nobody worries about the mating surface between the recoil lug and the stock?
savatage
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing your project with us.I`m new to this stuff .lightbulb
