ntsqd
Well-Known Member
High BC heavy boolits is what the .25's have been needing for a very long time.
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AR10 barrels
- Thread starter jbs2014
- Start date
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Michael O'Connor
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2017
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I have been waiting 34 years for them.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
About as long as I have been too.
B23
Well-Known Member
When you buy a Proof Research barrel they come with a new gas tube in the box with the new barrel.
Buster Hemlock
Well-Known Member
I have spoken to them. Besides accuracy issues, I get about 100-120 FPS less than what I am supposed to be getting with that 22" barrel with factory match ammunition like federal and Hornady. When I try to load my own so that I can at least get the speed advertised on factory ammo I get pressure signs. With some powders, I get pressure signs well below the posted max charge. I have used Hornady and Peterson brass and Fed Match primers. All with no success. So I decided to try a new barrel. Even with the best factory ammo that I could get 1.5 MOA was the best that rifle could do.
Rudolph Ferdinand
Well-Known Member
You are never going to get the same velocity as factory ammunition produce. The big ammo makers use a special blend of powders, what we buy from Cabela's or stores like them, it is like second-grade coffee we purchased from Fred Meyer. Changing your barrel may help some but more likely it won't. The reloading manual we buy, the company's use test barrels where they produce a high-velocity without the pressure signs. I've been handloading for thirty years and I haven't even come close to what's in the manual...work on accuracy, it is the thing to do.
Buster Hemlock
Well-Known Member
Not all powders used in factory ammo is blended, plenty is loaded with the same stuff you and I can buy on the shelf. As far as velocity, myself and many others get velocities well above published speeds, without pushing pressure. This has been confirmed using Piezo strain gauges. Reloading manuals are a good starting point, but are conservative. Test barrels are typically cut to absolute minimum spec and because of this pressure up sooner than what our barrels on manufactured or custom rifles do as the chambers, Leads and throats are more generous. I know of multiple test barrels that had to be sent back because they were so tight they couldn't even chamber a round.
With other calibers I have been able to safely exceed the maximums posted in the reloading manuals. I get that I will not get the exact same velocity as what is posted by the manufacturer but I don't think I should be losing 100-120 FPS (more with other bullet weights). Also, all of my loading data for 6.5 CM is for a 24" barrel. The other reason why I suspect that it is the barrel is that I am getting pressure signs way too early in every powder I use, something I have yet to encounter in any of the other calibers that I load for. Not to mention the fact that I have yet to find any bullet/powder combination yields better than 1.5 MOA
I changed out the barrel on my .338-378 and it now holds 1/2 MOA and an ES of 11 FPS with a 275 grain RMB. I have not even annealed the .338-378 brass yet which should lower the ES further. Before that I could maybe get it to hold 2 MOA.
Buster Hemlock
Well-Known Member
jbs2014,
What factory ammo have you tried and what have you tried for reloads? I'd expect a decent shooter from a Seekins, just wondering what you have been feeding her? If it's not holding up to what it should maybe a phone call is in order. I've had to do it twice on rifles from other manufacturers and both times it was a much more pleasant experience than I expected and yielded the results I was after. Bad barrels happen and manufacturers know and understand it and quality manufacturers like seekins will make it right if they truly aren't making the cut.
What factory ammo have you tried and what have you tried for reloads? I'd expect a decent shooter from a Seekins, just wondering what you have been feeding her? If it's not holding up to what it should maybe a phone call is in order. I've had to do it twice on rifles from other manufacturers and both times it was a much more pleasant experience than I expected and yielded the results I was after. Bad barrels happen and manufacturers know and understand it and quality manufacturers like seekins will make it right if they truly aren't making the cut.
B23
Well-Known Member
I bought my 6.5 Creed Proof CF barrel from MidwayUSA because they had one in stock and free shipping. Then I bought a Wagner Industries channeled soft jaws barrel vise and swapped the barrel myself.
It's a pretty simple and straightforward swap. The screws that hold the handguard on are torx head so if you don't already have the correct size, you'll need one of those as well as a 1 3/8 crows foot to torque the barrel nut. I'd have to look but if I recall you torque it to 55ft lbs
As was already mentioned, you'll need a .875 journal gas block, too. I bought the adjustable one from Seekins, I think it was only $59 or something like that.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
Some simple hand tools, a couple gauges to be prudent, a torque wrench, and a good manual (I'll suggest Zediker's book but there's likely other good ones too) and you can put a barrel in an AR.
Where it can get weird is if you're dealing with something proprietary, like an LMT upper, or, in the case of an AR-10, a non DPMS spec upper. Start with the book, then you'll know if this is somethign that you're not comfortable with. Worst case it will make you a better consumer.
Rudolph Ferdinand
Well-Known Member
Thank you for reminding me of the forgotten information learned a long time ago. I took up archery, I did some hand loading(very little ) but my mind was too much into archery. I started this precision handloading 18 months ago and things long ago are forgotten...recalling the old 30-06, 300 WSM, the 300 Weatherby magnum are cartridges near to what's in the reloading manuals.
