AR 15 pistol 300 BO no good

[86alaskan]

if only for fun, there are several lead bullet makers that are casting some good heavy 300BO bullets. they coat them with a special powder coating that's really tough, so the leading isn't an issue. they work great for just blasting, and are way cheaper than the heavy 30cal match bullets

 

[Nuclear Worker]

Thanks do you have a name of them?

 

[MudRunner2005]

Trust me, don't mess with lead cast bullets. Waste of time and effort unless you're trying to shoot SUPER cheap. But if you don't have the stuff to cast your own bullets, and you have to buy cast lead bullets that are already powder coated, you might as well spend a couple pennies more, and get an FMJ.

Where I used to work, we went away from powder coated lead bullets to 220gr FMJ's in the .300 BLK ammo that we manufactured. Had better results, and the barrels stayed cleaner. That powder coat will rub off on the rifling like moly coating does with extended shooting sessions and hot barrels.

The FMJ's we swapped to were from Everglades Ammo. These are the exact ones we loaded in our .300 BLK ammo.

http://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets/300-blackout-220gr-plated-bullets.html

 

[Nuclear Worker]

Trust me, don't mess with lead cast bullets. Waste of time and effort unless you're trying to shoot SUPER cheap. But if you don't have the stuff to cast your own bullets, and you have to buy cast lead bullets that are already powder coated, you might as well spend a couple pennies more, and get an FMJ.

Where I used to work, we went away from powder coated lead bullets to 220gr FMJ's in the .300 BLK ammo that we manufactured. Had better results, and the barrels stayed cleaner. That powder coat will rub off on the rifling like moly coating does with extended shooting sessions and hot barrels.

The FMJ's we swapped to were from Everglades Ammo. These are the exact ones we loaded in our .300 BLK ammo.

http://www.evergladesammo.com/bullets/rifle-bullets/300-blackout-220gr-plated-bullets.html

Thanks I will definitely check it out. Any advice on a suppressor? If someone makes a subsonic round for the 6.5 should be able to swap back and forth right?

 

[86alaskan]

well, they may be dirtier, but they are pretty cheap. anyway.... http://missouribullet.com/results.php?pageNum_rsCWResults=1&category=6&secondary=36

I use their cast coated bullets for my 38, 45LC and 9mm. They shoot accurately and are a Missouri company, all made in the US.

 

[Nuclear Worker]

Thanks I will definitely check it out. Any advice on a suppressor? If someone makes a subsonic round for the 6.5 should be able to swap back and forth right?

What ever I shoot will have to be factory loaded at this time not set up for reloading.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Thanks I will definitely check it out. Any advice on a suppressor? If someone makes a subsonic round for the 6.5 should be able to swap back and forth right?

Subsonic 6.5mm ammo might be something that will have to push you into the realm of rolling your own. Anything for a good legit excuse right? Just like buying another gun.

As far as suppressors go, what are you main goals? Do you need a QD style mount? Because direct-thread cans are typically a lot cheaper. Do you need it to be super compact, or can it be 6-8" in length? Remember, the more volume in a can, the quieter it will be. This is why longer suppressors (7"-11") are noticeably quieter than shorter suppressors (under 6"). Are you wanting it to be a multi-caliber can? Replaceable end caps? Do you want it to be user serviceable? With a centerfire this isn't as important as with rimfire suppressors, because rimfire ammo is nasty and really dirties up a suppressor. And if you shoot uncoated lead rimfire ammo, you will get lead buildup all in the can, and it will need to be cleaned every 500-1,000 rounds or so.

 

[MudRunner2005]

well, they may be dirtier, but they are pretty cheap. anyway.... http://missouribullet.com/results.php?pageNum_rsCWResults=1&category=6&secondary=36

I use their cast coated bullets for my 38, 45LC and 9mm. They shoot accurately and are a Missouri company, all made in the US.

At most pistol velocities, it won't be as bad, but at rifle velocities, leading can be an issue.

 

[Nuclear Worker]

Subsonic 6.5mm ammo might be something that will have to push you into the realm of rolling your own. Anything for a good legit excuse right? Just like buying another gun.

As far as suppressors go, what are you main goals? Do you need a QD style mount? Because direct-thread cans are typically a lot cheaper. Do you need it to be super compact, or can it be 6-8" in length? Remember, the more volume in a can, the quieter it will be. This is why longer suppressors (7"-11") are noticeably quieter than shorter suppressors (under 6"). Are you wanting it to be a multi-caliber can? Replaceable end caps? Do you want it to be user serviceable? With a centerfire this isn't as important as with rimfire suppressors, because rimfire ammo is nasty and really dirties up a suppressor. And if you shoot uncoated lead rimfire ammo, you will get lead buildup all in the can, and it will need to be cleaned every 500-1,000 rounds or so.

Oh boy more decisions! Length of 7-11 would be okay as it only has a 12 barrel. Doesn't really need to be multi caliber just thought if I could would be nice. As far as replaceable end caps don't even know what that means. I guess it would be nice to be able to self service it. But once cry once .

 

[MudRunner2005]

Oh boy more decisions! Length of 7-11 would be okay as it only has a 12 barrel. Doesn't really need to be multi caliber just thought if I could would be nice. As far as replaceable end caps don't even know what that means. I guess it would be nice to be able to self service it. But once cry once .

Multi-caliber just means that you buy a suppressor that you can run on a range of different cartridges and calibers. For example, most all .30 caliber (7.62) suppressors are rated for everything from .223 up to .308 Winchester. Some are rated up to .300 WinMag. And some are rated even higher, up to .300 RUM. It just means that you can shoot anything up to ________ cartridge (whatever the manufacturer says is the highest rated cartridge for that particular can). Most all high-quality .30 caliber suppressors these days are rated up to .300 WinMag, so as long as you don't plan on owning a rifle that is larger than the .300 WinMag, get one that's rated up to .300 WinMag, and you can use it on all your centerfire rifles.

As for QD vs. direct thread mount... Buying a QD suppressor is more universal, but at the same time, costs significantly more. The reason being, a suppressor built with a QD mount can sometimes cost up $250 more than a direct-thread suppressor. And on top of that, you have to buy one of those mount-specific muzzle devices for that suppressor for each rifle, and those can cost anywhere from $99 up to $200 each. So, that being said, while it is in-fact more universal and easier to quickly detach and install on another rifle, it will cost more. The direct-thread suppressor is not as universal, and has to be ordered for a specific thread pitch (most all .30 caliber rifle suppressors are threaded for 5/8x24 threads, most .223/5.56 rifles and rimfire rifles are threaded 1/2x28 threads, and .45 pistols are threaded .578x28 threads). Most precision rifle shooters use direct-thread suppressors because they are a bit more predictable and repeatable with POI (point of impact) shift. For my precision bolt-actions and hunting rifles, I plan on going with a direct-thread suppressor. Same for my rimfires. For my AR's, I plan on going with a QD (quick-detach) style to easily swap between rifles, and on and off for constantly changing environments in a SHTF situation.

Replaceable end caps are a good thing, because occasionally if something does not line up 100% or something goes wrong, you might get what's called a "baffle strike" or "end cap strike" when the bullet passes through the suppressor. If left unfixed, this can cause POI (point of impact) shift on target. So, if your can is user serviceable, you can remove the end cap and baffles and contact the manufacturer and they might want you to send in the suppressor or the damaged pieces to replace them with new ones. If you have a suppressor that is welded (sealed) up, you will have to send it to the manufacturer to get it fixed or replaced. They also claim that if you have replaceable end caps, and you are shooting a .30 caliber suppressor on a rifle that is chambered for something smaller than .30 caliber, for example a .223 or 6.5mm rifle, if you put a smaller proper-sized end cap on the suppressor, then it will drop the sound rating a couple decibels, but nothing really noticeable by ear, so for this, I don't really consider that a big positive for the replaceable end caps...Some folks might, but 1-2 decibels it's not a deal-breaker for me.

Based on this info, tell me what features you are most interested in, and we can work from there helping you decide which suppressor to go with.

 

[86alaskan]

If you're not really crazy about the suppressor game, look for something modular. That way, you can kinda customize as you go, if necessary. While there are really good high end precision cans like thunderbeast, you'd probably be well suited with a Silencerco product, like an Omega, Hybrid or Chimera. They make them with different sized threaded caps for different barrel threads, and end caps with different sized openings for 223, 308 and so on. Go to the silencershop website and start shopping. something will strike you, and they are super helpful in the selection and purchase process.

 

[MudRunner2005]

I used to like SiCo, but their tech is now old school, same with AAC... If I had to pick a fully modular and universal QD .30 caliber can that is VERY quiet, I would most-likely go with the new Energetic Armament VOX with the Dead Air Keymo mount option... If you buy it with the Keymo mount you can even buy the direct-thread adapters to make it into a direct-thread suppressor or put the keymo mount back on it for QD mounting. So it's truly modular and adaptable. It's also rated up to .300 RUM with no barrel restrictions, and is made of C300 Maraging Alloy (super light and strong). And, it's one of the strongest and lightest suppressors on the market...Also, one of the quietest, if you shoot it with a wipe in the end.

https://energeticarms.com/vox-centerfire-silencer/

• Assembled Weight:
  • 12.6oz (357 g) – Direct Thread w/ wipe
  • 15.8oz (447 g) – Dead Air™ Key-MO™ w/wipe
  • -0.4oz (-11 g) – Remove silicone wipe & retainer
• Length:
  • 5.9 in. (150 mm) x Dia. 1.5 in. (38mm)- Direct Thread
  • 7.4 in. (188 mm) x Dia. 1.5 in. (38mm)- Dead Air™ Key-MO™
• Material:
  • Welded Core- Heat Treated C300 Nickel-Cobalt Maraging Alloy US origin, DFAR certified
  • Nose cap – 17-4 H1150 Stainless US origin, DFAR certified
  • DT adapter- 6AlV4 Titanium (Gr. 5) US origin, DFAR certified
  • Black nitride finish
  • DT adapter is high temp graphite Cerakote® finish
• Mounting: Compatible with SilencerCo.™ Omega™ and similar mount threads
  • 1/2-28 RH Standard Direct Thread
  • 5/8-24 RH Standard Direct Thread
  • Dead Air™ Key-MO™
  • SilencerCo.™ ASR™
• Rating: 7.62mm / .30cal bore
  • 5.56mm / 308WIN / 300BLK Full Auto
  • 300WM / 300RUM
  • No barrel length restrictions
• Design: Welded baffle stack with removable nose cap, 1-1/4 in. standard hex
  • Standard reconfigurable wipe nose
  • Interchangeable industry-standard mounts

VOX S™ SILENCER MOUNT OPTIONS:

• Vox S w/ 5/8-24 Direct Thread Adapter– MSRP $695 (SKU: EA04)
• Vox S w/ Dead Air™ Key-MO™ & 5/8-24 muzzle brake– MSRP $995 (SKU: EA05)

Dead Air™ and Key-MO™ are trademarks of Dead Air Armament

SilencerCo.™ , Omega™ and ASR™ are trademarks of SilencerCo, LLC

 

[Lycanit]

The wife shot 2 deer with her new 300 blackout pistol. Both deer were less than 50 yards standing. Heart shot on both. They ran like not even hit. Thank god we had some snow to track there was no hair no blood nothing. I thought she missed she said no way so I followed tracks and both deer were dead about 75 yards away. No exit wound top of heart blown off. Cavity full of blood. Not happy shooting 150 grain Winchester. Barrel is coming off and 6.5 Grendel is going on. Got talked out of it should have stayed with my original plan.

I personally wouldn't go that heavy.. in the 300blk look for 125-130.. preference to monolithic just not enough motor for 150 grain... We are using essentially a .223 remmy motor to push almost triple the bullet weight originally designed for it.

 

[DocGlenn]

My go to rifle for hunting around my house is an AR 300BLK with a 9" barrel and a can. I've had really good luck with several deer and two big boars (boars were head shots). I use the Barnes 110gr Vortex and have had zero issues (all shots less than 100 yards). It's such a short, compact package that makes getting in and out stands easy. My son is trying to get his first deer with my Ruger American in 300 BLK with a 16" barrel and a can. He really likes shooting that combo, no recoil and relatively quite with super-sonics. Give the Barnes a try if you can be accurate with them. Good luck in December!
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/4...-tipped-spitzer-flat-base-lead-free-box-of-20