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Any truth to this?

Greyfox, your method seems to make more sense then some I have read, and it is amazing how they all differ. I, too am about to break in a new Brux, from my good friend Truc, and am very interested in doing it right, but not over doing it.
I have a Schneider barrel, on one of my STW's that broke in , in about 25 rounds, and I can shoot about 15-20 rounds through it now, before noticing build up, and accuracy to fall off. Good read!!lightbulb

Thanks 7STW, I have some rifles that hold accuracy well for 20 or so rounds, and others that can hold for 200 shots. Barrels do seem to vary in this respect. I have had good results with with 5R rifling(Rem Milspecs in 308) that have all broke in, and cleaned up very fast. They also would shoot 150-200 rounds without cleaning and still hold accuracy at sub .5MOA. I just got one in 300WM. Hope it does as well as the 308's. So far the break in worked very well. I'm now finishing up load development.
 
good point dpo. If i paid big bucks for a custom barrel and it needed to be fire lapped to break it in id be sending it back. I can see it with a factory barrel but a custom barrel sure shouldnt have chatter marks or other inperfections in the barrel that need to be lapped out.
After i had my first brux in 280 ackley done i went over there and asked them what i needed to do to break in my barrel. they told me that i could do what ever my normal break in was or just shoot it. Then telling and showing me their lapping process. So i put it to the test no break in. I clean it once a year im over 800 rounds and that barrel will shoot almost anything i feed it. 2nd Brux in 7wsm no break in, crazy accurate. 3rd on the way i will not do a break in. Not saying one shouldnt break in at all. This is just what i did
 
I would stick to a break in procedure, I just broke in another Brux and I've done it by the book and I've just crammed a load to it and went to work. If you load one clean and so one and you can watch progress with a bore scope you can see the benefit to it, the load and go will eventually get the process done but you'll have to do heavier duty cleaning so IMO you work more and use up the same components getting it done. I also run a light coat of Kroil as my last patch, I can't imagine blowing a squeaky clean bullet down a squeaky clean barrel and once you get the first one down you have residue and your GTG.
 
good point dpo. If i paid big bucks for a custom barrel and it needed to be fire lapped to break it in id be sending it back. I can see it with a factory barrel but a custom barrel sure shouldnt have chatter marks or other inperfections in the barrel that need to be lapped out.
The reason they might need a break-in is the throat has tooling marks going across the bullet travel from your gunsmiths reamer or neck throater. And that roughness shears bullet jacket off and the copper becomes a plasma because of the extremely hot temps and pressures from the expanding gasses of the gun powder and as it cools on its way down the barrel it gets deposited into the barrel.
 
After cleaning my Benchrest barrels w/ a copper cleaner, I always run a patch of oil down the barrel and then follow up w/ several dry patches to make sure there is not anything but a very thin coat. Impact is always where it is supposed to be. If shooting a dry barrel (not oiled) impact was always off. I see no reason to change for my hunting rifles
I've noticed the very same thing. I use Montana Extreme accuracy oil. But if I don't use it my 1st 2 are always low left about 1moa, when I use as stated above the first shot is low left 1/2moa besides leaving a thin coat of oil in a clean bore is not a bad thing.
 
For breaking in my pacnor I shot 8 tms bullets down it and cleaned after. I then went straight to load development cleaning every twenty rounds. All I use to clean is barnes CR-10 and patches it doesn't need a brush. I have shot as many as 30 down the pipe and seen no difference in accuracy or cleanup. Than again it could be the HBN coating that helps also. 4 or 5 wet patches pulled through with an otis followed by one of alcohol than a dry and kroil soaked for storage. For hunting I sight in than leave it alone till the season is over.

Reuben
 
Now that i think about it, i remember the crew at gunwerks saying that a thin layer of oil acts as fouling for that first shot. I will see if i can find the vid.
 
Right here: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWg3B6pLrdw]DIY Cleaning with KG - YouTube[/ame] what i am talking about starts at 3:30
 
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