Another Hornady brass thread!

Could cold welding of the bullet to the id of the case be happening? I know he said he tumbles in corn cob media but in the same note he also said that he has used scotch bright on the id of the case neck. Also, he said he left the ammo sit for a awhile.....
 
I doubt it. I have ammo that is years old and it doesn't split. It's either something in his loading or a bad lot of brass but with that amount of issues I am betting it's at the bench.
 
I to, have had issues with this brand, in the new 6.5 PRC. My brand new CA will not throw the empties out. Called CA and they said the Horns told them they had some "undersized" brass issues, but didn't elaborate where. I called Hornady and they advised me to return all 50 if possible, 8 days ago. Still waiting on that. HOWEVER, I just shot 1/2 a box of factory Precision Hunter, so I could reload some more. First time in 30 years of reloading, I barely, and I mean barely, could seat a primer in the pocket. The only way I could was to take my military crimp remover tool and open up the pocket, plus, I had to also square out the pocket with my pocket tool as well, AND IT STILL BARELY WENT IN! Yes, I tried different brands of primers. I also checked out ADG brass on their site, but they don't give you any details at all of how they make it...? Do you guys have good luck with ADG? or should I just wait until Lapua gets in the game?
 
I have notice several comments about annealing brass. Is there some way to do this other than buying the one unit that costs about $2500? At that point I think it would be cheaper to just buy new brass. I have a lot and wondering what methods some of you guys use.
 
No split necks here in 6.5 CM Hornady brass, just retired a few 10 times fired cases due to thinning above the case head that showed up as the "shiny ring'. primer pockets were all tight. The cases were annealed and trimmed after every third firing. Brass was FL sized bumping shoulder .002". Sometimes sized with the expander ball and sometimes no expander then expanding the neck with a mandrel. The batch before this one was retired after 7 times firing for the same reason. To be fair I did move the bump from .003 with that last batch retired after 7x to .002 with this current batch retired after 10x fired. Finding that Hornady 6.5 CM brass in general usually needs more prep and sorting out of the box vs Peterson or other premium brands, otherwise it works well here.
 

 
My experience from 30 plus year of reloading multiple calibers inexpensive brass cost more in the long run. My goto brass is NORMA and Lapua. 10 Plus reloads per case, neck sizing and shoulder bumping when necessary.
 
Decreasing temperatures do make brass (metal, in general) more brittle. It's hard to imaging that alone is responsible for the splits, but it certainly would exacerbate the mix of an 'over-working' die, and the intrinsic brass quality, itself. Good lesson here, IMHO.... DrBill (BS, MD, JD)
 
I know this has been said before but , why does it have to be like this? So I fire sized 100 Hornady 6.5 creedmoor cases while breaking in my new rifle. Loaded 50 in 25 case batches doing final break in and load development last summer. Loaded the other 50 with my best load and never fired a shot during hunting season. Went out today, 30 degrees , and started shooting . I put 10 rounds down the tube and half the cases had split necks. Any one else have an issue with necks splitting in the cold but not when it's warmer? Should I be looking at a better quality brass? 2 shots per case isn't gonna be any cheaper than 5 plus from Lapua or adg . Thoughts?
Lapua brass raises the bar. Before getting spoiled by Lapua, Hornady brass was good enough for me.
 
Just buy better brass. Lots of options. Lapua, Alpha, ADG, Peterson. Spend $1-$2/piece. It's way cheaper in the long run when it lasts 3-5x longer and you'll have better loads up front.
 
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