yankee outlaw
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- Joined
- Apr 7, 2017
- Messages
- 359
looks just right
Annealing question
- Thread starter 6pakzak
- Start date
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Looks good. Look at Lapua brass and you can see that is similar. An employee at a brass manufacturer told me to anneal in a dark room and put cartridges with water half way up on case and concentrate the flame from a propane torch on the shoulder until the neck turns orange and quench by knocking over in pan of water. Also was said to make sure of softness (elasticity) by noticing resistance with a button sizing die. There should be no screech when button being is pulled back up through the neck.
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
You're probably going to have to back off the shoulder bump, and go a size larger on the neck bushing (if your neck die has one) to account for the reduced spring back.
Yes I do have to back off shoulder bump otherwise it will bump to far on annealed brass, after I neck size I run a mandrel through and neck tension is good, not too much although I'm probably gonna go up by .0005 on mandrel.
I'm using flame and metronome for timing and I hold case by primer pocket reamer on drill, this holds the case straighter as it spins compared to socket, I have a count I go by but sometimes I'll go beyond it or less than the count depending on what the brass is looking like.
hawk-i
Well-Known Member
He's my take on it, you can not go by a visual anneal line as the condition of the brass will vary what you see.
I use a AMP annealer and its brought some observations to ponder ... older tarnished brass will clearly show a very distinct anneal line, freshly cleaned and polished brass not so much so.
I question how consistent flame annealed brass is, trial and error will get you to where you need to be but it may take some trying.
I use a AMP annealer and its brought some observations to ponder ... older tarnished brass will clearly show a very distinct anneal line, freshly cleaned and polished brass not so much so.
I question how consistent flame annealed brass is, trial and error will get you to where you need to be but it may take some trying.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
For a wildcat, I dip anneal to half way down bodies prior to 1st fire forming.
For all else I anneal only shoulder and necks.
And for all, after fire forming, I anneal necks only.
For all else I anneal only shoulder and necks.
And for all, after fire forming, I anneal necks only.
I was thinking of getting a flame annealer like the one that looks like a record player but I don't see how it would do any better and I would lose the ability to hold it on the flame a little longer or a little less, the metronome keeps me consistent with timing but I also go by what it is looking like, I think if I got anything it would be a induction annealer but I can now leave my body die set and get a consistent shoulder bump after annealing, before I used to have too constantly adjust it.
Con6.572
Member
Amp annealer is the way to go perfect every time
I watched a test Eric cortina did on an induction annealer compared to the flame one he had been using and his graphs showed a little smoother sizing but firing at 1000 yds showed very little difference in groups, couldn't tell any clear advantage, not saying amp isn't better just food for thought. My way is not perfect but I'm getting consistent sizing and seating and groups so it's definitely beneficial. Cases from the same lot can have different thicknesses so how do you know if it's properly annealed, if visual doesn't help than you're just relying on time? Even the amp doesn't detect when it's done.
hawk-i
Well-Known Member
I'd have to say Erik is one guy that has it figured out when it comes to reloading and shooting.
In that video it showed enough of an improvement to win or lose a match. The AMP does detect when its done as you sacrifice one piece of brass to be tested for required annealing in which it gives you a code to save to use with that lot of brass, allowing perfectly annealed brass each time.
I'll have to watch again but remember he said he would sort the brass next Time because there was not much of a difference, so once you set up amp you don't need to change the setting, you're using 223 brass and you got a different lot you are good to go cause the annealer can detect when it's done.
yankee outlaw
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- Apr 7, 2017
- Messages
- 359
It does prove one point with enough time and money you can do any thing
Con6.572
Member
I have a Amp annealer as they said you test each lot of brass it come out perfect. I used to use a annelez flame you had to get the flame the same every time which was hard to do but it was better than not annealing at all
