Annealing Question ???

All that's gonna give you is a case that holds a bullet. That case is still different from the rest and you don't have any way to test it for hardness. It will throw a flier.

The 650 degree recommendation is the best suggestion. What I have seen is temp increases 100 degrees per second. Trying to hit 750 on the mark is difficult. Overdoing it is easy. Waiting for an orange glow is overdoing it.

If you only do only one that way of course it will be different. If you are doing a process that involves occasionally fully annealing a case, chances are you are only hurting your accuracy.

Lead dip annealing makes temperature control and even application very doable and extremely consistent.
 
If you only do only one that way of course it will be different. If you are doing a process that involves occasionally fully annealing a case, chances are you are only hurting your accuracy.

Lead dip annealing makes temperature control and even application very doable and extremely consistent.

So how many times does it take to restore the neck to the correct hardness such that it does not hurt accuracy?
 
Yep, MM has no clue what he's talking about. I anneal every firing and get the brass to over 750 degrees each time. I have no problem getting ES below 12 on all my guns and bullets seat very even on my Hydro press.

I don't know what I'm talking about, says you!
How LONG do you hold the heat at 750º on you perfectly annealed cases?
You talk ****!!

:rolleyes:
 
How do you maintain a constant flame length to achieve this sort of precision? None of the torches are able to do that. Flame length wonders and the annealing varies. Is there a torch out there with pressure control that can maintain a constant 1" flame?
 
So how many times does it take to restore the neck to the correct hardness such that it does not hurt accuracy?

You are blending two different ideas here.

If you have a tuned load, and you try annealing and over anneal your cases, or just anneal inconsistently, chances are they will not shoot the same.

If you over anneal cases and they wont hold a bullet you can salvage them by working the neck until they will. This is actually occuring during the forming of a case at the factory. However some factories induction anneal. Ever wonder why?

You seem to be under the impression that somewhere i stated you can just anneal however hot you want and fix the cases with work hardening. Which is simply not the case.

In fact i actually stated if you cannot anneal a case ( or lot of cases ) consistenly with the same result you are probably better off not annealing at all.
 
I'm under that impression because in posts number 23 and 27 you in fact said you can restore an over annealed case to the correct hardness by necking it up and down.

My question to you is how many cycles does it take and how do you know when it's right?
 
We argued over this very same thing a while back in another thread, and i respecfully disagree. I and others have restored hardness to brass by sizing it up and then back down repeatedly.

I dont resize. I neck up and then back down. A trick i learned from kirby allen a while back. Kirby is well versed in the properties of brass from all the radical case forming he has done. Surely if he was available he would share some wisdom.
This like many things is dependent on the brass and how soft it has become. Do it until it will hold a bullet firmly.

Mind you this is a last ditch effort to save brass, not something practiced regularly.

No where did i say you can restore it to the "correct hardness." I said you can use it to save a case that would otherwise be unable to hold a bullet. I stated this as argument to the fact that you actually can work harden a case after its been anealed fully.

This is what i said word for word un-edited. Read it as many times as you need to in order to understand it and then take your axe outside and grind it.
 
No where did i say you can restore it to the "correct hardness." I said you can use it to save a case that would otherwise be unable to hold a bullet. I stated this as argument to the fact that you actually can work harden a case after its been anealed fully.

This is what i said word for word un-edited. Read it as many times as you need to in order to understand it and then take your axe outside and grind it.

U know what? I'm laughing. If you're not going to do it right, don't do it at all. So when you read my post, think about that very carefully.
 
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