Annealing question

[eshorebwhntr]

Not really dependent on how fast it is spinning. It's depends on how thick your brass is and who makes it. If anybody just tells you how many seconds to heat it they are not helping you at all. Torches vary on how hot they are. It really matters where I'm the flame the neck is at. And if you don't get the heat enough it won't anneal any at all. In a darkish room it will glow slightly when it has enough heat. Not bright orange but just a faint glow. In regular light if you see it glow you went too far.
Shep

I agree with this. All brass is different. The time will vary. Dark room heated to a faint glow. Count that time and average it over 5-10pcs then do it the same time for the rest. That's usually what I do.

 

[25WSM]

Look on the amp site and you will see same cartridge same neck thickness but different manufacturer and they use different times for them. Metallurgy comes into play for sure.
Shep

 

[Philward]

Lots of variables for sure, distilled down to what you see and how you interpret it.

 

[Dirtrax]

I use a drill and a K&M shell holder. I started annealing long ago and I still have the original bottle of 750* tempilaq. My torch is set up on a stand for safety and ease of use. 7 seconds in the flame is pretty universal for me now and I anneal after every second firing. I used to do it every time but that doesn't seem to give any better result down range that I can detect. I have never quenched the cases because I find it unnecessary.

 

[ButterBean]

Not really dependent on how fast it is spinning. It's depends on how thick your brass is and who makes it. If anybody just tells you how many seconds to heat it they are not helping you at all. Torches vary on how hot they are. It really matters where I'm the flame the neck is at. And if you don't get the heat enough it won't anneal any at all. In a darkish room it will glow slightly when it has enough heat. Not bright orange but just a faint glow. In regular light if you see it glow you went too far.
Shep

I agree with this 100%, I love this site but I took a break from it for a couple of years, It just seems that every thread gets turned upside down and sidetracked into something crazy, anyway once again this is 100% correct, Dark room,Drill and a socket (and yes it can be done by hand with no problem at all), soft orange glow, water or no water, standing up, laying down,Upside down, cake pan ,pie pan, coffee can or tonic water running thru a filter it an aquarium with snails and Gold Fish for a more natural atmosphere to cool as it makes no difference at all, sure the annealing machines are super nice and if I ever get the chance I'll by one, Til then I'll keep on keeping on ,It,s really not that hard, Rilow if you have any questions Brother just give me a hollar

 

[Rilow]

I agree with this 100%, I love this site but I took a break from it for a couple of years, It just seems that every thread gets turned upside down and sidetracked into something crazy, anyway once again this is 100% correct, Dark room,Drill and a socket (and yes it can be done by hand with no problem at all), soft orange glow, water or no water, standing up, laying down,Upside down, cake pan ,pie pan, coffee can or tonic water running thru a filter it an aquarium with snails and Gold Fish for a more natural atmosphere to cool as it makes no difference at all, sure the annealing machines are super nice and if I ever get the chance I'll by one, Til then I'll keep on keeping on ,It,s really not that hard, Rilow if you have any questions Brother just give me a hollar

Thanks butter I may just do that when I get started annealing. Good to have someone to ask questions about reloading as I'm somewhat new to it. So much to learn.

 

[ButterBean]

Thanks butter I may just do that when I get started annealing. Good to have someone to ask questions about reloading as I'm somewhat new to it. So much to learn.

No problem Bud, I'm still learning new things everyday

 

[LRNut]

I used the torch for years to anneal my cases. Place the case in a pan of water spaced somewhat apart. Heat each case to orange color and push over into the water. Probably didn't get the case heated completely around. The drill and socket looks likes a better way to heat the case up more evenly. I have purchase the No salt system from Canada. (Good people there, and quick to ship) but haven't used it yet. One thing for sure annealing extend the life of the case. I wouldn't hold the case with my bare fingers to get the job done. Neck splitting problem doesn't happen much after annealing. You do need to watch for is case stretch inside the case. You can bend a paper clip forming a 90 right angle turn and create a point on the tip. That right angle turn has to be short to fit inside the case neck and long enough to reach the bottom of the case. Turn it so the point out and move it up and down around the case side a 1/4" or so. Feeling for the point getting hung up or stop means there is case separation starting. That needs to start after about the 4th firing of the case, and done after each firing after that. The case is done and need to be taken out of services.
SSS

You may want to reduce how much you are setting back your shoulder if you can feel that gap. You can also see it forming as a faint ring above the case head.

I have a better idea than your paper clip method: if you have a borescope you can use that to inspect cases for internal cracks. Here is an example of one: