What is incorrect?
If you zero your rifle for 100 yards, then dial up to your 200 yard shooting solution, say .4MIL or 1.5MOA...you are now set for zero POI above or below POA at 200 yards. Just because your turret says .4MIL or 1.5MOA, does not mean anything. You are dialed for a 200 yard POI, same as having a 200 yard zero.
If you plan on zeroing at 100, but always dialing to your 200 yard shooting solution in the field in an attempt to limit bullet flight above or below POA by 2", why not just zero at 200 yards?
Unless you are shooting some sort of competition that always shoots 100 yards and need that zero and you don't want to hold under the .4MIL/1.5MOA with subtensions. Or, have a scope that has a few .1s or MOA under your 0.
With a 140 Berger @ 2800fps, 6500' AMSL & 85° (my pronghorn spot):
As far as MPBR, if you want no more than 4" high and 4" low from POA, you could then set zero at 282 yards. 4" high at 160, 4" low at 330. Crosses LOS @ 30 & 282.
200 yard zero, to maintain MPBR would be up .5MIL to have a 282yd shooting solution. Or 1.6" high at 130yds, and 4" low at 269yds if left at the 0.
100 yard zero, to maintain MPBR would be up 1MIL to have a 282yd shooting solution. Or 0" at 100, and 4" low at 219yds if left on 0.
I realize the further out you go, the dial ups are going to start to diverge. But out to 500, the 100 yard zero maintains the same dial up +.4MIL as the 200 yard zero.
200 yd zero. Down .4MIL for 100 POI. Up .6MIL for 300yds. Up 2.2MIL for 500.
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100yd zero. Up .4MIL for 200 POI. Up another .6MIL for 300. 2.6MIL for 500.
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If you want to zero at 277 yds, you still maintain 4" high as your top of flight. But, look at 100 & 300 yds. -.9MIL for 100 yds, and +.1MIL for 300. Still a 1.0MIL difference. Still a 2.6MIL spread between 100 down .9MIL & 500 up 1.7MIL too.
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