• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Advice on Long Range Scope Zero

Wow, lol. I zero @ 200 and it helps a bit when you use the reticle like your planning. I shoot a lot and when I'm with someone who hasn't, I've noticed it's hard for them to judge holdovers and with a 200 zero and a fairly flat shooting rifle it helps a bit. If you have a spot where you can set up some random targets out to 5-600 yards you will probably see what I mean.
 
Wow, lol. I zero @ 200 and it helps a bit when you use the reticle like your planning. I shoot a lot and when I'm with someone who hasn't, I've noticed it's hard for them to judge holdovers and with a 200 zero and a fairly flat shooting rifle it helps a bit. If you have a spot where you can set up some random targets out to 5-600 yards you will probably see what I mean.

I don't disagree with that. My point is directly related to the equipment you have and it's limitations. If you don't have a scaled reticle, and target turrets that enable you to quickly dial to a specify range for a POA/POI hit without having to remove a cap, and pull a penny out of your pocket, to do it then yes the zeroing to the midrange of your MPBR is typically how that's done.
 
If you have exposed turrets then there is not a single logical reason to zero at any range other then 100. Not one. Change my mind.
Would it be accurate to say the holdover crowd tends to like a 200+ zero and the dial crowd likes a 100? I know you can do either with both options but that's what the comments suggest.
 
Hi all,

I am having a 28 Nosler built and will be putting a Leupold 4-24 Vx6 on it with an Impact 23 MOA Reticle. This is the first long-range rifle I have owned. I live in Montana. I built this rifle to hunt elk and mule deer. I plan on using the reticle when I need to make a quick shot. I plan on dialing when the game presents this type of opportunity. I would likely limit my shooting to 600-700 yards until I build proficiency with the rifle. Here is what I would like advice on:
  1. For hunting is it best to zero the scope in at 100? OR
  2. Calculate maximum point blank range and zero for that distance? OR
  3. Is there another way I haven't thought about?
Thanks for your help.
Regardless, zero only represents a place to return to after you have been using the dial for shooting at longer distances.
100 yards has been the standard, no doubt due to 100 yd ranges being more common and easier to find.
As for using a reticle, very good results can be achieved using that method.
Just make sure you know your reticle very well, so that there is no confusion when the time comes.
In other words shoot the gun till you become proficient using the reticle without much thought being given.
 
The farther the bullet travels from your muzzle the more environmental plays into the true zero of your rifle. That's reason #1 why we zero @ 100

If I you want wind, DA, etc for a specific location etc figured into the true zero of your rifle then go ahead and zero at 200. Hell, zero at 1000yd and hold under for everything. Just don't forget to compensate for everything else you included in your zero. Good luck 👍🏻
 
Last edited:
Everything I have heard about the new Zeiss scopes, is that they won't reliably track for squat!
I've got a zeiss v4 on my 25sst that's a little over a year old and it's solid as far as tracking. And I bought it as a demo from redhawk's. Hadn't heard anything bad on them myself and I have no complaints other than not being able to dial wind but they were upfront about that.
 
And I zero everything 1" high at 100yds personally. Been doing it for a long time now with MOA reticles because that's how I've managed to program my brain for the quick 4-500yd shots when you're in a hurry and need to hold over. All of my hunting rifles are in the kill zone with the same hold over to that distance if need be. If it's a relaxed situation I dial with 1" high at 100 in the app. I think it's just what you're comfortable with really. Doesn't matter.
 
The farther the bullet travels from your muzzle the more environmental plays into the true zero of your rifle. That's reason #1 why we zero @ 100

If I you want wind, DA, etc for a specific location etc figured into the true zero of your rifle then go ahead and zero at 200. Hell, zero at 1000yd and hold under for everything. Just don't forget to compensate for everything else you included in your zero. Good luck 👍🏻
It would take lots of typing on your part in order for my old mind to grasp what your attempting to say.
And there would be no guarantee id agree anyway, so dont bother. lol
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top