? about bad barrel blank

[Danny1788]

Imho a 12x36 lathe is minimum for barrel work. Anything smaller just is a hassle and doesn't carry the weight to hold tolerances.

 

[70oldsracer]

http://www.homegunsmith.com/archive/T17186.html
This is one of the first threads I read that made me feel it was possible to thread and chamber a barrel blank on my 9x20. It's an old thread so the pics are unfortunately blurry. He does mention that he was never able to get better than .002" runout on the chamber end and I truly believe it's due to these small less rigid lathes. He also mentions, that it may not be a benchrest standard, but would still make a very accurate rifle. My original set up for threading the muzzle end of the barrel for muzzle brakes was an exact copy of this one. I eventually made a front spider with fine thread 3/8" allen bolts that was a lot more rigid since all the work was being done close to the headstock and easier to dial in.

I spoke to my friend today and he said my barrel should be here by Tuesday. Once I get it back, it will go right out to Wilson.

 

[birdiemc]

Is this threaded onto your spindle or held in the chuck? Cuz your last post looks like both. Just curious...no implied criticism. I think I read that you cant get under .004 TIR with your 4-jaw but can half it with this, again just curious, why do you think that is? Is it the fine threads on your screws vs. the larger threads the 4 jaw scroll?

 

[Mram10us]

The more I look at your setup, the more I think you need someone experienced with chambering watching your methods. It doesn't seem Wilson is at fault here. Maybe ignorance on my part though since I'm not there

 

[70oldsracer]

Is this threaded onto your spindle or held in the chuck? Cuz your last post looks like both. Just curious...no implied criticism. I think I read that you cant get under .004 TIR with your 4-jaw but can half it with this, again just curious, why do you think that is? Is it the fine threads on your screws vs. the larger threads the 4 jaw scroll?

My spider is mounted to a backing plate that threads onto my spindle. The .004" TIR wasn't from me, but from another thread I posted. Yes, the fine thread bolts make it easier to dial in everything.

 

[70oldsracer]

The more I look at your setup, the more I think you need someone experienced with chambering watching your methods. It doesn't seem Wilson is at fault here. Maybe ignorance on my part though since I'm not there

Just curious as to why you feel that way? Was it something with my set up?

 

[birdiemc]

My spider is mounted to a backing plate that threads onto my spindle. The .004" TIR wasn't from me, but from another thread I posted. Yes, the fine thread bolts make it easier to dial in everything.

Thanks for that picture. Clears it up right nice. I read through the whole thread a couple days ago and remembered .004 from somebody sorry.

 

[Mram10us]

Just curious as to why you feel that way? Was it something with my set up?

No offense meant, and I may have missed it, but from the pics and reading I didn't notice you turning down a portion to use in the steady. If so, how did you dial in the barrel before doing so?
Apologies if I missed it, I might be jumping the gun here.

 

[Mram10us]

I missed it. You mentioned on page 2 a truing cut. Apologies. As I was

 

[70oldsracer]

No offense taken, I'm here to learn. If you look at post #23, I mention it. I dialed in the chamber end of the barrel using a range rod. I made adjustments with the spiders (while moving the indicator on the rod close to the barrel and further away from the barrel) to get the chamber end running as true as I could. I then cut the tenon and made it long (truing cut) so I could have the steady rest ride on it while I was threading and chambering the barrel. Due to my small .750" spindle bore, the barrel sticks out of the headstock a lot more they I'd like and I needed the steady rest to add more stability/rigidity. I used a floating reamer holder to ream the chamber. I pretty much followed the article by Les Brooks. If you feel there is something I could have done differently (besides use a bigger lathe), let me know. If the chamber to bore runout is actually less than .0015", what makes you feel it's my set up?

 

[Danny1788]

So if you feel that you did the best job you could have with the tools. Then buy another blank atleast spend $300 this time and chamber a better known quality barrel to prove it?

Lots of advice, recommendations and knowledge has been stated in this thread. So prove us all wrong and buy a quality barrel and do it again. If it was the cheaper Wilson barrel then you proved it to yourself.

 

[bigngreen]

Range Rod, right there is .0015 run out!

 

[70oldsracer]

So if you feel that you did the best job you could have with the tools. Then buy another blank atleast spend $300 this time and chamber a better known quality barrel to prove it?

Lots of advice, recommendations and knowledge has been stated in this thread. So prove us all wrong and buy a quality barrel and do it again. If it was the cheaper Wilson barrel then you proved it to yourself.

I appreciate the recommendations and knowledge, but I don't need to prove anything to anyone let alone spend $300 to do it. I'll send the barrel back to Wilson for about $15-20 in shipping and see what they have to say. It may turn out that that I did screw up chambering the barrel, but that doesn't make me stupid enough to waste $300 to find that out. I'm a big boy and will have no problem posting exactly what Wilson finds, even if it's not in my favor. This is a hobby for me, not something I'm trying to make a living from and I don't plan on doing any competitive shooting.

 

[Mram10us]

Wilson is quality. They aren't $300 but I have built plenty of very accurate rifles with them. I can post pics and data if it helps.
As to the setup, I try to avoid 3 points of contact to avoid bending the barrel. I am no expert with using a steady while partially thru the headstock so I am ignorant to it. Let us know what Wilson says.