I'll build my next one with a range rod in the tailstock again like Gordy does and see if it increases accuracy. Thanks for the input
? about bad barrel blank
- Thread starter 70oldsracer
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birdiemc
Well-Known Member
They're so short to get them in far enough to get to the throat area theres not much sticking out the bore to indicate off, and makes it really hard to set up 2 sti's to dial in both ends of the barrel
Gotcha. I assumed you were putting one in the muzzle and one in the chamber and using a single dial indicator.
birdiemc
Well-Known Member
To be honest I didnt think of that. Now I need to buy a new blank so I'll have a reason to try that out
Ha! Tell your wife I made you
That has worked for me, but I'm willing to try other methods to see if it helps. I've never been a big believer in "barrels are bananas" or "all barrels are bent". I agree, they aren't perfect, but I don't know how small shop guys like me could really measure that with our equipment. Probably ignorance on my partbigngreen
Well-Known Member
I dont see a range rod having enough clearance to work with the Gordy method .
This is what I'm talking about. He calls it a range rod. Mine are the PTG about 7". His are longer. Semantics maybe?
https://youtu.be/aII2tbavKnM
https://youtu.be/aII2tbavKnM
Danny1788
Well-Known Member
Those are not range rods! Those are called grizzly rods. Those are undersized and you use a weight on the rod, and a tight fitting bushing. Way different then a range rod that is long tapered. Different than an indicating rod PS.
With a range rod you put a tight bushing and tap the range rod into the end of a fresh faced off barrel. This gives two contact points inside the barrel bore to dial off of.
Grizzly rods doesn't touch the bore only the bushing does. You dial in the bore at the throat with the bushing at said depth. Then bring the tailstock back to the end of the barrel and dial in the end using the muzzle side spider, Back and forth until the "bore" runs perfectly true.
I've done it all ways and here's my take. I use a range rod to rough in the barrel bore. Then I use a 2.75" long stem DTI and dial off the bore and lands, this gives a 1-1 contact no slip fit from the bushing To range rod (bushings fit on the rod which means they have to be undersized to fit). I'm looking for that to run true before I start any tenon turning, pre drilling, chambering. This has worked out very well for me for the last few years.
All that said I used range rods for my first several barrels and never had a barrel not shoot good under 1moa. What BignGreen and myself are after is absolute bore to throat running true from bolt face. Which to me makes the most sense
Thanks for clarifying. I wondered why I couldn't find long range rods like he was using.
Danny1788
Well-Known Member
So try different methods and see what you think is best. I'm not knocking the OP for his trial and error. But I've suggested a few times to try different methods or even just a different barrel and he's doesn't want to spend the time or money. Can't fix anything if you don't try to make it better or try again. $340 for a high quality barrel is cheap to me. I have thousands more invested in my stuff.
Definitely agree that we should try different methods to see what works. I don't agree that a $340 barrel is required. We've had great luck getting everything from Remington takeoff barrels, Wilson and of course brux and Krieger barrels to shoot very well. My first build was with a carbon barrel. Talk about nervous. Turned out well, but I probably should have done a couple inexpensive ones
Danny1788
Well-Known Member
Definitely agree that we should try different methods to see what works. I don't agree that a $340 barrel is required. We've had great luck getting everything from Remington takeoff barrels, Wilson and of course brux and Krieger barrels to shoot very well. My first build was with a carbon barrel. Talk about nervous. Turned out well, but I probably should have done a couple inexpensive ones
Will agree with that, I chambered many sub par "cheap" barrels just to test. I'm more inclined to say that the barrel is not the issue. I taught myself on cheap barrels. But if he won't try a different method then try a better barrel. Because he is claiming it's the barrels fault, we both know you can chamber a cheap barrel and have it shoot good, HE DOESNT which is why I was calling his BS. I've chambered $95 green mountain barrels that shot 1moa with first loads. So that's why I posted try a better barrel if you think your setup is sound, but he refused to buy a $300 to prove it. I still think he was bending the barrel into place with that setup.
I'm going to try the range rod/2.5" di method you mentioned to see if it works better for me. Thanks for the details. $95!? Boy have prices changed
Danny1788
Well-Known Member
My interapid 312b-15 long stem dti was around $375. Can find them cheaper on sale or used, but Honestly they are worth it. If you don't see the need for it or you don't grasp what i was talking about, then you don't get stacked tolerances and you don't understand until you actually measure it with the right tools.
