6.5 CM reloading issues....

[freediver111]

Well, hit the range after work yesterday and ran through the rest of the batch. Had two more FTF, and still had some issues with groups. I'd shoot 2 or 3 and get a nice group, then a flyer way high. My buddy brought some cheap Hornady ammo, American Gunner or something like that, and we had no issues getting 1" groups at 100 with those.

I'm ditching the lanolin lube for sure. As much as I've read that it doesn't affect powder, it has to. I admit I didn't clean the brass as rigorously as I normally do, but I'm fairly convinced that's the culprit.

I'll try the Lee lube since I have a bottle of it already. Do you avoid rubbing on/in the neck and just rub it on the case body?

I also sprang for some Redding dies, Hornady comparator, and some more tools to get ogive measurements and headspace sizes down more precisely. I'll still use the Lee hand trimmer and 6.5 gauge to trim cases with my drill bit. Thats probably the only place I could eventually upgrade, but for now it works fine.

 

[wboregon]

Well, hit the range after work yesterday and ran through the rest of the batch. Had two more FTF, and still had some issues with groups. I'd shoot 2 or 3 and get a nice group, then a flyer way high. My buddy brought some cheap Hornady ammo, American Gunner or something like that, and we had no issues getting 1" groups at 100 with those.

I'm ditching the lanolin lube for sure. As much as I've read that it doesn't affect powder, it has to. I admit I didn't clean the brass as rigorously as I normally do, but I'm fairly convinced that's the culprit.

I'll try the Lee lube since I have a bottle of it already. Do you avoid rubbing on/in the neck and just rub it on the case body?

I also sprang for some Redding dies, Hornady comparator, and some more tools to get ogive measurements and headspace sizes down more precisely. I'll still use the Lee hand trimmer and 6.5 gauge to trim cases with my drill bit. Thats probably the only place I could eventually upgrade, but for now it works fine.

yup should work fine, less is typically more. you can get a little on the neck, but if you lube the neck every single round I find the lube will build up and may dent your shoulder. I typically don't lube the inside of the neck, I just make sure to keep my expander cleaned, or remove it all together. You can also try some graphite powder and dip your expander in it for the inside necks, graphite never seems to come off what ever you get it on....Ask me how I know

 

[Seabeeken]

Ditch the spray lube and get some Lee lube. It works better and is more convenient. Put a small dollop in a ziploc bag or a plastic container and agitate well to spread the lube. If you try this, you will initially use too much lube.

I know the alcohol/lanolin has been highly promoted, but I still find the Lee lube better. Lee lube is Iloform PS 700 made by Castrol. It was designed for and is used in the metal drawing industry.

^ what he said. Lee lube is the best out there and will not harm powder. I switched to it after trying rcbs, imperial, unique, lanolin and never looked back. Takes seconds to dry and once dry will not dent shoulders. A little goes a loooong way. I put some on a qtip and lube inside of neck and let dry before seating bullets and my es/sd got much better. It also wipes of cases easier!

 

[JTB]

I ended up moving to Imperial case lube, neck lube (graphite in their ball media) and Redding bushing dies. Widely varied neck tension will produce the results you have described. Heavy seating pressure/neck tension will also scar the ELD-X jacket and possibly cause some minimal ogive deformation adding additional variables to contend with. I want them to seat firmly but as smooth as butter. I believe you are on the right track in normalizing neck tension and will go a long way to improving your situation.

 

[Seabeeken]

Most all my hunting loads run .2-.5" and single digit es and sd. I've used imperial and the graphite. I got same results with a $3 tube of lee lube. Smooth consistent bullet release is huge.