6.5 build for 140 Bergers at 2900-3000?

For the criteria you describe there are several good options as has been mentioned. Having owned several and achieving exceptional performance and consistency for hunting and LR target shooting, I personally like the 6.5x284 running 2975-3000FPS with 140's. I haven't owned a 6.5 PRC but based on observing performance from others, it seems would be a comparable alternative. Barrel life depends on several factors. For my <.5MOA performance standard for 5 shots, I expect 1100-1500 rounds for the 6.5x384, not much different for most all of the usual suspects in this class of cartridge running comparable charge weights. Where in this range is dependent on rate of fire/heating, barrel, cleaning, etc. As a point of reference. PRS, using the same performance standard, my 260, 6.5x47 and 6.5CM with 40-42grs of powder rarely go much above 2200 rounds. Any pressure, neck length, etc difference between the cartridges does not seem to have any noticable influence on barrel life difference.
 
I was in the same situation. I am not a rich person who has his own shop for rebarreling nor can afford to pay a gunsmith several hundred dollars each time. I narrowed my search down to two 6.5 rounds. The 6.5 Brenneke and the 6.5x55 Swede. Both are accurate rounds.

Vihtavuori's web site provide data for the 6.5x55 SE which is for modern day firearms - most of the reloading data are published for this round assuming someone with an 1896 rifle possibly could shoot the recipe and those rifles will not take modern day pressures. I almost went for the Brenneke but the loading data are limited. I decided to go with the 6.5x55 SE as a starting point. There is an Excel program that estimates barrel life and for a powder with a high heat potential (e.g., 3900) about 2300 rounds for one with a low heat potential (e.g., 3700) nearly 3000 rounds. I shoot the Lapua 136 Scenar using Lapua brass, 46.5 grains of RL 22, CCI BR2 primers and 0.002 neck tension. Velocity out of a Douglas premium target barrel at 27.5 inches is 2850 fps. Work up your loads, this one works for me. Vihtavuori lists data for their 139 Scenar L at 27.5 and 29.0 barrel length and both are close to 3,000 fps for N540/560. I have found the Swede does not like brass near or at maximum length.
You're correct! Bottom line is if he spends the initial $ on a good heavy barrel he gets what he's LQQKING for. For LONG RANGE Shooting he needs at least a 28" quality, heavy barrel in the RIGHT TWIST for the BULLET hes planning on shooting. The VLD's need an 8 twist to Stabilize. When his Smith chambers it if he's ON TRACK with the shooter he's building it for he should KNOW to Throat it properly. What's all the FUSS ABOUT? PHYSICS CANNOT BE FUDGED! You need barrel length for good, clean, proper full burn of all powder, otherwise you're OVERBORE & that's what Deteriorates Barrels! Proper BREAK IN and Maintenance cleaning Regularly are the only way to Maximize ANY BARREL'S LIFE! Theosmithjr
 
Greyfox is right on.

Performance costs barrel life

When a guy starts getting flyers, they have a tendency to discount those, and think of the main clump as their actual group size. That flyer could just as easily be a miss or gut shot on an animal.

1200 rounds of dependable accuracy on a hunting rifle is a lot of years of hunting, but throw in shooting steel, and the barrel is toast before you know it.

Work up your loads, hunt, verify zero from year to year...barrels last a very long time.

In my 6.5x47, I am shooting 37g of powder with a 140g, barrel life is approaching 3000 rounds and the barrel scopes great with the hawkeye. Barrel has never been more than just slightly warm to the touch, and started off with .129 freebore for shooting the 123g Match king and Scenar. As the leade grew a tad, I went with the 140g, somewhere around 2200 rounds. Velocity with the 140g is 2750 out of my 26".

In my 6.5/06, I shoot the 140's at 2950 out of a 26" 8T Pac Nor, never full length size the cases shooting R#22. I can get 3050 with 5/8" groups but the .275" groups at 2950 kill everything that I shoot at. I do not shoot at steel.
 
Personally, I enjoy the 260 AI, and I have no trouble reaching 3k fps in a 26 " tube. However, my rebarrel went with a 28", and velocity with a 140-143 shoots great groups @ 3050 with 3100 easily achievable. Best groups in the 3k to 3050 range.

Accurate barrel life runs 2500-3000 rds. YMMV
 
Just a thought...I know it is "old school", but I have a 6.5-06, custom build on a Mauser 98 action and 26 inch Pac Nor barrel, 1 in 8 twist that will push a 140 gr. bullet to nearly 3000 fps. However, it shoots tighter groups at around 2920 fps. I make my brass from 270 WIN brass--one pass through the 6.5 die and trim to length. Like I said, just a thought.
 
Ron, I am shooting R#22 in my 6.5/06 with the 140g. I bet that R#26 and a fed 215 is going to change the picture, entirely. I am shooting Win 25/06 brass. The Remington LONG magazine is a joy to look at....all that room in front of a loaded round!
 
I'd suggest a 26" barrel with a short mag loaded light. The 6.5 4.S was concocted for hitting the speed limit in PRS with lower pressure so they had some barrel life. 2900-3Kfps is easy for the various short mags. The 6.5x55ai would be good for the speed also.
Because you are not looking for every last foot per second, you can set the reamer up for a shorter throat to fit the magazine length. The other thing would be to use H1000 or 7828. Both will be a bit better than a double base propellant like Rl26 or 4955(I'm liking more and more) Both will have a higher heat index that will promote more aggressive throat wear.
Other rounds mentioned will hit your desired performance envelope but at a higher pressure. The higher that pressure the hotter the throat temps. The other option woould to throat a short mag like Rich's SS or SST for the whole enchilada. Then just throattle back on the load. This way you would have the option to go full ret**d if you desired down the road.
 
If I were to run a WSM, I would run a single stack mag of sorts to avoid feeding issues.

the difference between a Rem short and long action is about 6oz or so.
 
Im building new rifle and wanting to shoot 6.5 140 VLDs just under 3000fps. My question is, what will give me the most barrel life at 2900 to just under 3k. I have been looking into the SAUM, WSM, PRC. I am sure there are others out there, I am wanting to stay with a short action. I an no expert but I think the answer has to do with pressure differences.

You want a short action, what barrel length you wanting to use?
My opinion/vote is for the 6.5saum. I have 2 in different barrel lengths and contours. You can run the 140's from 2900-3000 easily even in a 24" barrel.
 
You're correct! Bottom line is if he spends the initial $ on a good heavy barrel he gets what he's LQQKING for. For LONG RANGE Shooting he needs at least a 28" quality, heavy barrel in the RIGHT TWIST for the BULLET hes planning on shooting. The VLD's need an 8 twist to Stabilize. When his Smith chambers it if he's ON TRACK with the shooter he's building it for he should KNOW to Throat it properly. What's all the FUSS ABOUT? PHYSICS CANNOT BE FUDGED! You need barrel length for good, clean, proper full burn of all powder, otherwise you're OVERBORE & that's what Deteriorates Barrels! Proper BREAK IN and Maintenance cleaning Regularly are the only way to Maximize ANY BARREL'S LIFE! Theosmithjr
I buy long barrels for this reason... but, I'm shooting high Case capacity rounds. 28 nosler, 7-300, 300 win, 300 rum, 7rm, 7stw. Long action cartridges that use over 68 grains of powder. The op is wanting a short action. I would argue that most short action cartridges don't need a 28 inch barrel because they don't have enough powder to burn past 24-26 inches. Even if you fill the case with h50bmg or us869... just playing devils advocate hoping you know something I dont. Btw powder burn is chemistry not physics
 
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