.284 Winchester?

It's nothing other than a short action 280, what one can do for speeds with one you can do with the other
 
Howdy Friends. Have any of you got any experience with Dumoulin Herstal Mauser actions? I have 2of them, they came with Gentry stile 3position safety's and unknown replacement trigger, real hard to get agusted. Some times when I close the bolt the fire pin drops, won't stay cocked.. so I am ready for a new trigger, do you think that will solve the problem? If not what will? Thanks for any help. Leon.
 
Howdy Friends. Have any of you got any experience with Dumoulin Herstal Mauser actions? I have 2of them, they came with Gentry stile 3position safety's and unknown replacement trigger, real hard to get agusted. Some times when I close the bolt the fire pin drops, won't stay cocked.. so I am ready for a new trigger, do you think that will solve the problem? If not what will? Thanks for any help. Leon.
Pretty simple my friend, you need a gunsmith and don't put a live round in them if one or both are doing it... it's not clear. Cheers
 
Couldn't he do the short action and just have it throated for whatever bullet he intended to use so it wouldn't protrude into case to far?
You could chamber the round single feed (rolling block action or single shot). Issue is with COAL is limit in short action magazine. The 284 Winchester is a great cartridge, but needs a long action. That is the only reason that I owned 280 Remington. I always liked the 284 Winchester case design and efficiency, but 280 is a little better IMHO. I have never owned a 284 though?
 
I also have a NULA in .284. Love this little rifle. The 160 accubonds have a lot of bullet in the case. I'm getting 2602 FPS with H4831sc in a compressed load. 168 matchkings give me 2755 with H4350. Going to do some testing with H4350 and the accubonds. I will say the accubond load has performed great on elk from 25 to 380 yards. Forbes suggested 140 grain bullets at ~3K FPS with H4350 but I like the 160's for elk. If I were doing it again I would have used his long action
 
As a longtime shooter of the 284 Win (since 1983) perhaps I can offer some of my experiences.

It is true that 2.8" mag length is problematic for 160 or longer bullets. There are some short actions that are longer than that. A gunsmith can often lengthen the mag box or a wyatt's mag box can be installed.

I currently have a SA Ruger tang safety with a lengthened mag box. My gunsmith did the work himself. Usable space is now 3.050". (IIRC NULA model 20 actions use 3.1")

I had a custom reamer made to my specs. I neck turn the Winchester brass which needs turning as this stuff is not that concentric .315 neck. Now days you can get much better brass. I Supplied a dummy round with the 168 Berger VLD hunting to engage the lands .020" when seated to fit and feed from this magazine.

Using RL-17 this setup yields 2925 fps from a 23 1/2" barrel.
Without changing the seating die a 120 nosler bt and RL-17 is over 3400 fps

I also have a LA Rem 700 with a 28" 1 in 7 twist barrel I recently acquired from a friend who got out of shooting. It shoots 180 Berger match target with H4831 @ 2850 fps. Lots of room for bullet seating. It came with a custom long throated reamer that also requires neck turning, chamber neck .3165".

IMO best powders for a SA 284 with OAL constraints of 2.8" to 3.050" is H4350 or RL-17 with 17 making more velocity. Any bullet longer than 168 won't work that well with those mag constraints.
Your response is the most accurate I've seen. I too run the 284 in a SA. 162s @2.980 w/RL17 at 3000 is pretty easy In a 25" barrel. H4350 is the next best powder performance wise at around 2920-2940. The Baney Box drop floor plate mag would be a bit better at 3.1" in a SA. I wouldn't consider any thing heavier than 168s for the SA at 2.980. The 3.1" Baney would be ok for up to the 175s. Anything heavier(longer), I'd recommend a LA. For those that haven't tried a 284 on a SA, it's well worth building one if you keep the bullet weight (length) within that Optimal OAL with the bullet seated in the cartridge for the good case capacity.
 
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You're probably going to need to step up to a Long action to shoot the heavies and the velocity potential is fairly anemic at around 2500-2600fps with 170-180gr bullets.

If you want to stay with a short action you'd probably be better off looking at the 7mm-08.
I'm having a short action put together now in 7mm- 08AI on a Montana 1999 action 26" 1-8.5 twist fluted hart barrel hope to have it completed by fall I'm planning on using 168-175 gr
 
I should mention before I lengthened the mag box I used the shorter mag restrictions of my Ruger SA of 2.890" I primarily used 140 gr bullets.

The 140 partition took many elk. Using H4350 or in the early years IMR 4350, I got 3050-3100 fps from a 22" barrel and it worked well. IMO160-168 isn't necessary to get the results necessary to kill elk. As this is a LR hunting site, you can employ the higher BC of the heavier bullets to get a bit less wind drift and a bit more energy but it won't be a huge difference.

I should add that Steve Timm, a retired gunwriter, used the 120 Nosler ballistic tip to take many animals including moose! This is one stout bullet. He made his comments on 24 hr years ago.
I used that bullet to kill many coues wt and javelina with excellent results.
 
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I have nothing against the .284 Winchester BUT times such as they are I'd rethink the idea of chambering any rifle for it....unless you have several hundred pieces of brass already in hand you might have a major problem down the road feeding it...a .280 rem using /06 brass would achieve the same basic thing with hopefully brass available forever but who knows...even the 7mm mag brass so far seems available for the most part.. I rather have a pound heavier rifle shooting than a lightweight one sitting around...just a thought.. if things get better, which doesn't look good to me, you can always rebarrel or cut off the back 3 inches and rechamber..
 
I have nothing against the .284 Winchester BUT times such as they are I'd rethink the idea of chambering any rifle for it....unless you have several hundred pieces of brass already in hand you might have a major problem down the road feeding it...a .280 rem using /06 brass would achieve the same basic thing with hopefully brass available forever but who knows...even the 7mm mag brass so far seems available for the most part.. I rather have a pound heavier rifle shooting than a lightweight one sitting around...just a thought.. if things get better, which doesn't look good to me, you can always rebarrel or cut off the back 3 inches and rechamber..
The Lapua 284 brass seems to be available right now and the 6.5-284 brass is usually really easy to find.
I'm planning on building a .284 win on a tikka action, planning to shoot 180's, my COAL is 3.2" the action can handle around 3.4 so it's close but it works
 
I have nothing against the .284 Winchester BUT times such as they are I'd rethink the idea of chambering any rifle for it....unless you have several hundred pieces of brass already in hand you might have a major problem down the road feeding it...a .280 rem using /06 brass would achieve the same basic thing with hopefully brass available forever but who knows...even the 7mm mag brass so far seems available for the most part.. I rather have a pound heavier rifle shooting than a lightweight one sitting around...just a thought.. if things get better, which doesn't look good to me, you can always rebarrel or cut off the back 3 inches and rechamber..
I'm glad I bought 2000 284 brass back in the 90's to feed my 3 284 rifles. They last 7 or 8 reloadings with stout hunting loads. With target loads they last 10 to 12 reloads sometimes more. I did have to purchase a small base die to help with feeding issues.
 
It's always a no brainer for me to build on the 284 parent case. Having as much 6.5-284 Lapua brass as I have, I'd be nuts buying anything else for a 7mm cartridge. I have 4 different 284 based cartridges and haven't hardly touched the new brass I have for them. It's powder and primers that seem to be the problem mostly. Can't use the brass without either of the other two.
 

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