200 vs 315 yard zero

30 Hammer

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Idaho
I'd like to know your opinions on what yardage you prefer to zero at - specifically for big game hunting.

Personally I like to zero at whatever range a max of + 4" in the flight path gives me. Thought process is that ang big game in N.A. has an 8" kill zone.

In a 28 Nosler if I go to a 200 yard zero I am outside of that 8" range prior to 315 yards.

With a 315 yard zero I am at 4" max , 0 at 315 and within the 8 kill zone all the way to 415 yards.

This way if we have a quick shot there is no dial up needed - an animal from 425 yards and in is much more likely to require a faster shot as their senses are much more keen at that range than say 800 or 1000. I've shot Elk at 640 and the others in the heard had no idea where the shot was coming from. Yet you can blow a mule deer out at 400 easily if he sees you and hears you.

Ok - your input please.
 
I zero at 100 for everything. With my set up, 100 is the lowest point in elevation from 25 yds on out.

I also think regardless of your zero, if you guesstimate the range of your prey and hold off accordingly you will probably be closer than holding a zero on center that you know is incorrect.

Just my preference.
 
I don't like max line of sight zeros. Add some angle in and under quick shot situation it can lead to a miss since you are 4" high at 175-225. In a hurry you most won't remember to hold low

I prefer 100-200 yard zero. With 200 yard zero your good out to 300, anything further than that your going to need a good rest and should have time to adjust turrets.

I do 100 yards zeros just because my Brain computes MOA better this way. I will dial up to 200 yard when walking in case of quick shot.

IMO
 
I like 100 for everything as well. I hunt areas for deer where they could be 400 on a bean field, or in your lap when in the woods. I have and know people who have missed deer low because they were so close. I'd rather know my 100yd zero well, and have a bit of holdover on the 300 or 400 with a good reticle than rely on the PB range being close enough.
 
I zero for 200, but would not go farther because my brain has an easier time holding a little high farther away then holding low close
 
Remember that close shota will often be rushed and longer shots, 300 require more time. I sight in at 200 and can hit anything out to 300 without much holdover. If it's further I'll need time and will dial up anyways. If I don't have the time to set up I don't need to be taking that kind of shot anyways.
 
I use 200 yd zero, but I use scopes with hashes at one moa, both holdover and windage. I figure the holds for close, rushed shots to 350 or so. Anything longer, I dial based on dope sheets or Kilo w/AB. With 200 zero, I find it easy to shoot at 100+/- ...... aim at heart. If you hunt in thick cover zero @ 100. It is rare for me to not have time to dial.
 
I zero at 100 yards, for simplicity and ease of setting up my ballistics app, I do not have to enter my atmospheric conditions at time of zero, and it seems to give me more accurate come ups, but where my scope is dialed while hunting is 2.25 MOA high. With this dope, my highest point in flight is about +3" at 150-160 yards, with my .260 AI that is a 285 yard zero, and at 350 yards I'm 4.25" low.

So I have the best of both worlds, consistency for my ballistics app, and the longest point blank possible with my cartridge and ammunition selection. If I need to make a quick shot, I will know it's within 350 yards, and any point of aim will be good. If I have any doubt on range, I will not shoot until I go through my long range steps of getting a good position, ranging my target, acquiring the proper dope, reading wind, ect. ect.....
 
200. Most rushed shots miss at zeros of 300 on game<300. I agree more is needed and more patience for shots > 300.

I zero at 100 yds. Then turn in to 300yds. A nightforce scope which is moa. I have a range card taped to my cheek piece with solutions to 1000 yds by 50 yd marks.
If a deer comes out 300yds or closer it is center chest behind the shoulder. Anything past that I will range then twist in the proper moa and hold where I want the bullet to go.
Works every time.
 
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