1500 ft/lb energy requirement?

[drdool]

For example, lets say 7mm rem mag at 2795fps, with 180 eldm... will it go trough/brake shoulder hit lung and heart, at 1100yards 1629fps and 1060 ft/lb? I'm kind of looking for approximate numbers needed to break a shoulder and cause serious damage to lungs/heart. Has there been any kind of more scientific test on this? Or at least experiences of members here, there are a lot of folks with many elk under the belt

p.s. i know 7mm mag at 2795 is slow and just giving out examples.

https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase.html

 

[Dean2]

The 1500 lb energy level is only a recommended energy for Elk sized animals based on energy, and reasonable point of impact with a proper bullet. An elk can be taken with a 22 if you have the perfect shot and hit the brain but it is not recommended because the prefect shot is seldom made or presented to the hunter.

Terminal velocity for a bullet is a measure of the bullets ability to perform as designed, the range is the fastest and the slowest that it should be expected to perform and realy has little to do with energy, that is a function of bullet weight, velocity and distance.

So as long as your energy is in the recommended range for the animal at the distance you make the shot and Your velocity is in the recommended velocity for the bullet design you should be ok.

J E CUSTOM

I did not read the whole thread so one or more people may have already said this. Energy is a shortcut that caught on far beyond its true usefulness. If energy really played any part in killing game no animal would have died from a round ball at 1000 fps, an arrow or most black powder cartridges shooting cast lead bullets.

Holes are what kills, along with the blood loss and damage to nervous systems. Energy is relatively irrelevant. The old BP 45-70 loads didn't have 1500 FT/Lbs at the muzzle but they still killed a whole bunch of Bison, way bigger and tougher than an Elk, just fine.

 

[Christian Wiseman]

What 30 Cal bullet is that? All I can find is a 208 AMAX

Its hornadys eld match it's what replaced the amax from everything I've read it's literally the 208 amax with a different tip

 

[combatcurt]

Its hornadys eld match it's what replaced the amax from everything I've read it's literally the 208 amax with a different tip

I can't help but be curious, in a 300 WM, you are getting 3100 fps with a 208? And 3600 lbs at 300? I'm not being sceptical, but let fly the specs! Barrel length, powder, etc

 

[Christian Wiseman]

80.6gr h1000 3.610 oal 26" barrel hornady brass federal lrm match primer. I'm just going off what the ballistic calculator says idk how to actually figure out what the energy is.

 

[Bigaldepr]

Energy is equal to 1/2 mass times the velocity squared. If the weight is in grains and velocity is in fps. Energy is 0.00000222 times the bullet weight times the velocity squared. E=0.00000222 X weight(grns.) X V^2(fps).

 

[Christian Wiseman]

Energy is equal to 1/2 mass times the velocity squared. If the weight is in grains and velocity is in fps. Energy is 0.00000222 times the bullet weight times the velocity squared. E=0.00000222 X weight(grns.) X V^2(fps).

Yea I was never good at math lol

 

[combatcurt]

80.6gr h1000 3.610 oal 26" barrel hornady brass federal lrm match primer. I'm just going off what the ballistic calculator says idk how to actually figure out what the energy is.

Jesus H Christ. I shoot a 300 RUM with 180 accubond @ 3200. If it wasn't so God dang accurate, I would change it. I might try something else out. I'm going to try some other stuff lol

 

[NEMTHunter]

I did not read the whole thread so one or more people may have already said this. Energy is a shortcut that caught on far beyond its true usefulness. If energy really played any part in killing game no animal would have died from a round ball at 1000 fps, an arrow or most black powder cartridges shooting cast lead bullets.

Holes are what kills, along with the blood loss and damage to nervous systems. Energy is relatively irrelevant. The old BP 45-70 loads didn't have 1500 FT/Lbs at the muzzle but they still killed a whole bunch of Bison, way bigger and tougher than an Elk, just fine.

One reason why this is. Transfer of tissue. The bigger the bullet the more tissue is disturbed and the more tissue is disturbed the quicker or bigger chance of a kill happening. Not to mention more penetration up to a point. a fatter bullet will take more speed to go as far as a skinny bullet. Why? less friction as it travels through the object.

Foot pounds does play a part for sure. BUT with a non shoulder shot it has less of a impact.

For me I set personal limits that I feel comfortable with. Then try to stick by them.

It all comes down to this. Make sure you have the speed needed for the bullet to do its job. If you do not you might as well be shooting FMJ at the critters.

 

[Christian Wiseman]

Jesus H Christ. I shoot a 300 RUM with 180 accubond @ 3200. If it wasn't so God dang accurate, I would change it. I might try something else out. I'm going to try some other stuff lol

I'm guessing my barrel life is out the window at this point lol it's a really hot load according to hornady 77.7 hr is the max load lol

 

[combatcurt]

I'm guessing my barrel life is out the window at this point lol it's a really hot load according to hornady 77.7 hr is the max load lol

I don't stop at the book max load. I do however, start around the starting loads in the book and March on. Many folks would say I am being unsafe by not stopping. I disagree. I'm not trying to break records. If there are no problems with excessive pressure, I will try to hit the next accuracy node. Most of the stuff I shoot cannot be found in reloading manuals..

 

[Christian Wiseman]

I don't stop at the book max load. I do however, start around the starting loads in the book and March on. Many folks would say I am being unsafe by not stopping. I disagree. I'm not trying to break records. If there are no problems with excessive pressure, I will try to hit the next accuracy node. Most of the stuff I shoot cannot be found in reloading manuals..

Same for me I start about 10% off the max load and work up from there with me seating my rounds way longer than the book does it drops pressure alot. It's really funny when I tell people how much powder I have in my 300 win and they get all defensive and tell me it's so dangerous to load that hot. I dont have any pressure signs but a slight ejector mark and average 1/2 moa I'm not gonna change it until I get a new barrel.

 

[combatcurt]

Same for me I start about 10% off the max load and work up from there with me seating my rounds way longer than the book does it drops pressure alot. It's really funny when I tell people how much powder I have in my 300 win and they get all defensive and tell me it's so dangerous to load that hot. I dont have any pressure signs but a slight ejector mark and average 1/2 moa I'm not gonna change it until I get a new barrel.

I bought a lathe and I get top name barrels for 170$. I could care less if someone wants to come at me with the barrel burner myth

 

[Christian Wiseman]

I bought a lathe and I get top name barrels for 170$. I could care less if someone wants to come at me with the barrel burner myth

Man I wish I could do that I have to wait until a barrel company builds my barrel it usually around 450-500$ a barrel