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New Tikka Not Grouping Well

Do you have a hunting rifle that can shoot multiple strings 0.5 MOA or better consistently? How about down range at different distances?
Yes I do. At ranges farther than 100 yards. One is a Sauer and the other is a Mauser M18 (not a 98). Of course it requires consistent marksmanship, but the rifles are capable of half MOA and even better consistently. No doubt a better marksman would have no trouble grouping under 1/3 MOA almost every time.
 
So I checked the action screws first. They were torqued around 15-20 lbs so I completely disassembled. I adjusted the trigger pull to be slightly lighter while it was apart, stuck it back together, tapped the butt of the gun to make sure the recoil lug was seated, and torqued it down to 40 inch lbs per the manufacturer's recommendation.

I checked the scope rings and they were torqued correctly. Many have mentioned concerns with the base screws, but the rings mount to the tikka dovetail and have a recoil lug that threads into the top of the receiver above the bolt handle. It appeared to be fine.

I have also cleaned with a copper solvent and picked up a box of 130 gr. Federal Terminal Ascent. Will go back to the range tomorrow and shoot using some sandbags to see if this has made any difference.

During this, I did notice that the stock is not free floating all the way to the receiver. My dollar bill stops approximately an inch from the receiver, so I am thinking I need to work on the stock some.

Will update again after my range visit tomorrow. Thanks for all the input guys!
 
You may have just found the source of your problem. And it is an easy fix. Have you got one of those stock channel scraper tools? I forgot the proper name, but it is a good investment.
 
As a owner of many Tikkas I would suggest pulling action screw amd blue locktite and torque to 44in lbs. Front screw then rear. Check screws on mounts and clean. It's something simple Tikkas are shooters
You do 44 in-lbs on rear screw too? Did you arrive at screw torque specs from experience and does the Tikka stock material and /or pillars make a difference? I have zero Tikka experience. I just know they have a good rep.
 
I just recently purchased a Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech in 6.5 PRC and mounted a VX-6HD 3-18x50 with Unknown Munitions scope rings on it. Torqued everything down to the right specs and took it to the range.

First 3 shot group (after setting scope) using 147gr. ELD-M was .5" @ 100 yards from a Magpul Bi-pod and a rear bag on the shooting bench. I was content and for the majority of my hunting that would be sufficient.

It got dark on me so I came back the following weekend and shot some more. My shot groups were averaging 1.25" to 1.5". I ran to the gun shop and grabbed a box of the 143gr. ELD-X to see if they would shoot better. I averaged 2" groups with the ELD-X and noticed some stringing up and to the right. From the research I have done, it seems like the barrel warming could've caused this. (Although, I normally wait +5 minutes between shots to let it cool off)

I also started to think the bipod was the issue so I verified that the barrel was free floating when the bipod was loaded. That did not seem to be the problem.

Ultimately I swapped to a lead sled to take the Bi-pod out of the equation. I cleaned my gun and reshot both types of ammo with the ELD-X averaging 1.5" groups, and the ELD-M averaging slightly less than 1" groups, but having occasional flyers about 2" from the point of aim. I saw slight improvement, but still wasn't where I want to be.

So far I have 54 rounds through the rifle, and am not very impressed with the accuracy. I intend to try the 156 gr. Bergers, but have not been able to find them locally. I am not currently able to reload, so I would like to find a factory round that is at least MOA or better until I get setup where I can reload myself.

I am fairly new to the long range shooting so I figured I would ask those that are more experienced than myself. Any advice or ideas, regardless of how simple are appreciated.

Thanks
We have a Tikka 6.5 PRC unmodified factory ammo one MOA all day long. Handloads three in one hole. We have had two dud Leopold scopes both VX3-HD models later models, but the VX-5 works perfectly about four years old.
 
So much uninformed advice in this thread unfortunately.

1. Free float your barrel, get rid of the stupid barrel bumps completely. Make a large gap the whole way up.

2. Torque your action screws. 65 in-lbs works well.

3. Replace your scope. It's doing typical leupold things.

4. Go shoot.
 
So much uninformed advice in this thread unfortunately.

1. Free float your barrel, get rid of the stupid barrel bumps completely. Make a large gap the whole way up.

2. Torque your action screws. 65 in-lbs works well.

3. Replace your scope. It's doing typical leupold things.

4. Go shoot.
There is also some very good advice as well.
 
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