Ever had a rifle not shoot well with a brake?

[baldhunter]

I recently bought two rifles that already had brakes installed on them.The first one was also the first braked rifle I have ever own.After my first range session I noticed the brake had started backing off.The rifle had so so accuracy,but after seeing that it had began unscrewing with each shot,I thought that has to affect the accuracy since this brake has the big side vents with the small top vents.I would think that would make an affect on the harmonics as it began rotating in different positions.I did some video searching and found one that talked about locking the break down tight can also affect the accuracy because it can cause a stress point in the barrel.They recommended not to screw the brake down tight,but instead,use blue locktite on the threads and screw it down just shy of tight and let it set.I did that and both of those rifles are shooting really well.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I recently bought two rifles that already had brakes installed on them.The first one was also the first braked rifle I have ever own.After my first range session I noticed the brake had started backing off.The rifle had so so accuracy,but after seeing that it had began unscrewing with each shot,I thought that has to affect the accuracy since this brake has the big side vents with the small top vents.I would think that would make an affect on the harmonics as it began rotating in different positions.I did some video searching and found one that talked about locking the break down tight can also affect the accuracy because it can cause a stress point in the barrel.They recommended not to screw the brake down tight,but instead,use blue locktite on the threads and screw it down just shy of tight and let it set.I did that and both of those rifles are shooting really well.

To get it to what you considered not too tight what did you use? I have a self timing break and just barely snugged with A wrench but no lock tight.

 

[Christensen 7mag]

I have a Christensen arms hunter that does not shoot good with the brake on. It'll shoot 1/2 moa with Barnes vortex 140 gr ttsx without the brake and 21/2" with it. I've tried this with many different ammo/ hand loads so I don't use it.

 

[baldhunter]

To get it to what you considered not too tight what did you use? I have a self timing break and just barely snugged with A wrench but no lock tight.

I put it on snug with a wrench but not super tight when it came loose the first time.I couldn't find the video but I did find this and this is what he was referring to.I the video he was saying that if you tighten down the brake you are constricting the bore and that was the reason for using the blue lock-tite.To remove the brake you will have to heat it up enough to soften the lock-tite first.
Brakes not installed properly can cause accuracy issues. Too tight and you can constrict/change the barrels bore dimensions in the worst spot...right at the muzzles crown. If the brake becomes loose it will effect vibrations and effect accuracy as well.

Even with muzzle brakes on barrels I've seen damaged to the muzzles crown.

Also depending on how the barrel is made...if there is any residual stress at the muzzle end....when you do the muzzle threading you can make the bore go sour/open up. This will have a negative effect on accuracy.

I only run a brake if it's a really big caliber with a lot of recoil and or setting the rifle up for a suppressor attachment.

I'm not totally against running them. So take what I say as what can happen. Just make sure the work is properly done and double check the bore after the work is done to make sure nothing changed on you.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

 

[Scott E Ames]

In my small series of 5 rifles. 2 muzzle brakes and 3 suppressors all 5 shot better after they were added. I also put a brake on a 6.5CM to help me keep an eye on the impact at short range even though it is a low recoiling caliber. I have 2 Generation 3 little bastard brakes on Bartlein barrels and my gunsmith made a point of telling me they needed very little in the way of tightening to work well. Don't have an actual torque figure but "snug" instead of tight would be how I would describe it.

 

[Bigeclipse]

I put it on snug with a wrench but not super tight when it came loose the first time.I couldn't find the video but I did find this and this is what he was referring to.I the video he was saying that if you tighten down the brake you are constricting the bore and that was the reason for using the blue lock-tite.To remove the brake you will have to heat it up enough to soften the lock-tite first.
Brakes not installed properly can cause accuracy issues. Too tight and you can constrict/change the barrels bore dimensions in the worst spot...right at the muzzles crown. If the brake becomes loose it will effect vibrations and effect accuracy as well.

Even with muzzle brakes on barrels I've seen damaged to the muzzles crown.

Also depending on how the barrel is made...if there is any residual stress at the muzzle end....when you do the muzzle threading you can make the bore go sour/open up. This will have a negative effect on accuracy.

I only run a brake if it's a really big caliber with a lot of recoil and or setting the rifle up for a suppressor attachment.

I'm not totally against running them. So take what I say as what can happen. Just make sure the work is properly done and double check the bore after the work is done to make sure nothing changed on you.

Later, Frank
Bartlein Barrels

It's a pretty lightweight 28nosler rig so recoil is stout for me so I'd prefer the brake on.

 

[Recon$$]

I had one brake that every once and while I would get a strike, but I didn't see evidence on the brake... I swapped it out and my mystery shots that that kept getting thrown went away. It was roughly about 1 in 5 shots.