New Tikka Not Grouping Well

[FlGunner]

I'll give ya $100 as is, you keep your scope

 

[MagnumManiac]

Get it off the Lead Sled. Those suck.

Try different ammo. Don't discount Berger 140 Elite ammo. Those bullets rock.

This is the best advice you will ever receive.
Have seen factory Tikka rifles with the recoil lug not engaged correctly, best option is to buy a steel one and get rid of the factory aluminium junk.
I never base a rifles accuracy on how it shoots ONE choice of factory ammo.
There are plenty of options apart from Hornady ammo…

Cheers.

 

[marc357]

So much uninformed advice in this thread unfortunately.

1. Free float your barrel, get rid of the stupid barrel bumps completely. Make a large gap the whole way up.

2. Torque your action screws. 65 in-lbs works well.

3. Replace your scope. It's doing typical leupold things.

4. Go shoot.

Now you're giving uninformed advice. That is a plastic stock with plastic bottom metal. 65 inch- pounds is way too much. Stick to things you know.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I am.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

If it's not the scope and scope mounts, and the shooter is doing his job,
As a Tikka builder here is a few odd problems I have found over the years:
1. Loose action screws,
2. After market bolt shroud causing varying trigger pull weights
3. Bolt handle stem had burr in the half moon pocket, causing it to drag on the collar of the firing pin.
4. Loose trigger assemble bolt
6. Trigger shoe pin had burr
7. Firing pin assembly had debris between it and the inside of the Bolt wall causing delayed ignition timing.

New Tikka Not Grouping Well

Get it off the Lead Sled. Those suck. Great point 👍……I should’ve caught that! memtb

www.longrangehunting.com

Did you read post 27 ? Just curious on what your thoughts are on this. Appears to me not many caught this post. Perhaps it has nothing to do with his issue. But then maybe so. I never owned a Tikaa. So just curious on your opinion. Since you seem to have some knowledge on these rifles as well as others on this thread.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

I didn't think to mention that upon the first shot of this rifle, the bolt was very hard to work. Almost to the point that I thought the bolt had seized up. After 2-3 shots it appeared to be normal, but now that I'm having issues I thought this may be worth mentioning.

This post concerns me a little ? Did you figure out what caused this ?

 

[marc357]

This post concerns me a little ? Did you figure out what caused this ?

The safety on the Tikka locks the bolt. The safety can get nudged to an "in-between" position where what OP described can happen. Could have been something worse, but I'm thinking that may have been what happened.

 

[marc357]

I am.

Max stock bolt torque for that gun is 5Nm (44 in-lbs).

Wife has one in .300 Win Mag. Shoots great at 44 in-lbs in and has not come loose.

No need to go to 160% of Tikka's max spec on a plastic stock and bottom "metal", same as one would not go 65-in-lbs on a wood stock.

 

[Korhil78]

Max stock bolt torque for that gun is 5Nm (44 in-lbs).

Wife has one in .300 Win Mag. Shoots great at 44 in-lbs in and has not come loose.

No need to go to 160% of Tikka's max spec on a plastic stock and bottom "metal", same as one would not go 65-in-lbs on a wood stock.

Hey!! He is giving out good advice! He said so himself.

 

[Jon Bischof]

Hey!! He is giving out good advice! He said so himself.

Good advice if ya want something to crack and fly across the room before ya get to 65 inch-pounds!

 

[Shotts2000]

Update after shooting at the range today:

I tried the Federal ammo and the first 3 shot group was a 2.5" group from sandbags. I figured that the rifle needed a few fouling shots after cleaning so I didn't think much of this group. Shot 4, 5, 6, & 7 were all sub MOA. Shot 5, 6, & 7 were in a 5/8" diagonal group.

I was content with this, but wanted to make sure this wasn't a fluke. I shot another 3 shot group with a cool barrel. We were back to a 2.5" inch group. I swapped back to the ELD-M ammo and shot another 2.5" group.

At this point I am going to send the scope back to Leupold and let them check it out. I am probably going to send the rifle back to Tikka also so I can have verification that both are functioning properly.

I really appreciate all the help from everyone, and will update when I know more.

 

[Korhil78]

Good advice if ya want something to crack and fly across the room before ya get to 65 inch-pounds!

Correct…that was my joke haha.

 

[WA Coyote]

Why send either back, when you can simply verify with a known solid scope?

If the gun shoots fine with a verified functional scope, then send the Leupold back.

If the gun shoots crappy with a verified functional scope, then re-diagnose and/or send the gun back.

Seems like a simple way to save a lot of time and expense.

 

[Shotts2000]

Why send either back, when you can simply verify with a known solid scope?

If the gun shoots fine with a verified functional scope, then send the Leupold back.

If the gun shoots crappy with a verified functional scope, then re-diagnose and/or send the gun back.

Seems like a simple way to save a lot of time and expense.

I don't know anyone with a 30mm scope, and would have to buy a base and/or rings for a 1" scope in order to do this. I understand that this may be the best option, but it may be just as expensive, and I would have to send the rifle in anyways if that doesn't fix it.