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New Tikka Not Grouping Well

Excellent. I'm sure you've triple checked your scope mount and have the reticle aligned to the bore using a plumb line. If so and your shooting form is solid, it's possible your scope has a flawed erector. Maybe the best way to determine that is to mount a proven scope to confirm PoA and PoI are spot on, or send your scope to Leupold for warranty service. Scope flaws happen and Leupold has always been great with their Lifetime warranty in my experience, even on 20+ year old used scopes I've bought. I doubt the ammunition is solely responsible for your experience. Beyond these issues you may be experiencing a mass production rifle flaw related to bolt face : chamber and/or bore alignment. This too happens.
Yes sir, I have checked my scope using a plumb line and level.

I plan on trying another brand (or two) of ammo before swapping the scope out.
 
I've have several Tikkas including the exact same 6.5 PRC Roughtech. It shoots tiny groups with everything factory and hand loads I've fed it. Not saying it doesn't happen but I've never had a Tikka that didn't shoot well. I have a 308 in a SS lite that I thought wouldn't shoot but it turned out to be a Leupold scope problem. Swapped it out to a Zeiss I had and it was sub moa with no load development.
 
Many have already covered checking torque on everything, which is true. Based solely on the differences between one ammo (ELDM) and another (ELDX), with the better of the two being more than acceptable out of a factory rifle, I think the problem and solution is right in front of you. You've caused it and solved it in the same exercise. I seriously doubt this is a rifle issue, or a scope issue. It's an ammo problem. That is why so many of us don't even mess around with it anymore. Shooting long range and shooting factory ammo don't align very well, unless you find ammo that your rifle likes, and.it is consistent.

If you aren't ready for the investment of cost and time to reload, I would recommend getting ahold of Copper Creek and buying one of their load development packs and work through two stages of that, and let them make ammo for you. You won't regret it, as it will be consistent ammo with top shelf components.
 
Two things to consider:

1) Tikkas can sometimes be a little finicky getting the barreled action seated properly in the stock. You might consider reseating the action in the stock. The way to tell if that is a problem is that once the action is seated and you have put a little torque on the screws is that as you do the final tightening you will notice the barrel lifting up (IIRC) out of the channel as you tighten the front action screw all they way down. Perhaps, there was an error in assembly.

2) From your post "and the ELD-M averaging slightly less than 1" groups, but having occasional flyers about 2". Less than 1 inch with factory ammo is not bad. Yes, Tikka's generally shoot better and the flyers might have been you. If you can, bring your best shooting friend and have him shoot the rifle; you might have been having a bad day.
 
I just recently purchased a Tikka T3X Lite Roughtech in 6.5 PRC and mounted a VX-6HD 3-18x50 with Unknown Munitions scope rings on it. Torqued everything down to the right specs and took it to the range.

First 3 shot group (after setting scope) using 147gr. ELD-M was .5" @ 100 yards from a Magpul Bi-pod and a rear bag on the shooting bench. I was content and for the majority of my hunting that would be sufficient.

It got dark on me so I came back the following weekend and shot some more. My shot groups were averaging 1.25" to 1.5". I ran to the gun shop and grabbed a box of the 143gr. ELD-X to see if they would shoot better. I averaged 2" groups with the ELD-X and noticed some stringing up and to the right. From the research I have done, it seems like the barrel warming could've caused this. (Although, I normally wait +5 minutes between shots to let it cool off)

I also started to think the bipod was the issue so I verified that the barrel was free floating when the bipod was loaded. That did not seem to be the problem.

Ultimately I swapped to a lead sled to take the Bi-pod out of the equation. I cleaned my gun and reshot both types of ammo with the ELD-X averaging 1.5" groups, and the ELD-M averaging slightly less than 1" groups, but having occasional flyers about 2" from the point of aim. I saw slight improvement, but still wasn't where I want to be.

So far I have 54 rounds through the rifle, and am not very impressed with the accuracy. I intend to try the 156 gr. Bergers, but have not been able to find them locally. I am not currently able to reload, so I would like to find a factory round that is at least MOA or better until I get setup where I can reload myself.

I am fairly new to the long range shooting so I figured I would ask those that are more experienced than myself. Any advice or ideas, regardless of how simple are appreciated.

Thanks
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As a owner of many Tikkas I would suggest pulling action screw amd blue locktite and torque to 44in lbs. Front screw then rear. Check screws on mounts and clean. It's something simple Tikkas are shooters
 
Every rifle likes something different. You are doing all the right things people have previously mentioned.

When I got my wife a new CVA Cascade 308 I picked up 5 different boxes of ammo. The first 6 ever through the rifle shots grouped just under 1". We did 5 shot groups with each ammo at 100 yards and hers liked the Norma Whitetail 150gr after shooting all 20 rounds of each box. We shot it all to get her practice as she never shot a rifle before.

I then worked on load development for her. It really liked a 150gr Hornady SST over 43.5grs of Varget with glover leaf groups. .3-.4 grn's up or down opens up a bit. I shot 4 different 150gr bullets and 3 different powders (Varget, IMR4350 and IMR4064) to find the right match. Her rifle doesn't like 165gr bullets so far. I just haven't landed on the right recipe. It will take time for you to land on what the gun likes. Don't give up. The right combination is out there.
 
I have shot rifles since I was a kid, but started teaching myself proper shooting fundamentals a couple of years ago. I shoulder square to the gun, control my breathing by exhaling until my movement is minimized, squeeze the trigger and follow through, and with this rifle I do not feel the recoil is an issue at all. I am able to shoot my 30-06 with .5" groups shooting exactly as I have with this new rifle. Not to say that I can't improve, but I genuinely feel like the issue lies outside of my shooting skill.
Are you shooting with both eyes open? Makes a difference. I only shoot with both eyes open and I'm right eye dominant so that helps.
 
A buddy of mine has the same rifle and it shoots lights out. They are guaranteed 1moa out of the box. Tikka barrels are cold hammer forged. As
such they do not have any rough rifling spots and Tikka claims they do not need a break in period.
He shoots Hornady Precision factory ammo with 143gr ELDX. 3/4 inch at 200 yds. 1:8 twist 24". The barrel
has virtually no taper to it and we proved that shot placement varied little as the barrel heated up.
He had 3 one shot kills on white tails this season at various ranges.
Ditch the lead sled and the Bi-pod and try sandbag front and rear support.
Try hand feeding rounds one at a time, not from the magazine.
Look at the muzzle crown for a burr.
Look carefully at any hardware that goes through the stock and could contact the action or barrel. (sling swivel screws) etc.
Were the scope mounts made for that rifle, usually, if they are they come with the correct length screws. If
not then check the depth of the front mount screws, you may be torquing down on the barrel threads or something
like that.
are the mounts in perfect alignment with each other?
Let a friend (that you know can shoot) try a group or two. Take you out of the equation.
I have NEVER seen a Tikka that didn't shoot great. Don't give up on it yet.

I keep a VX-Freedom 1.5-4x20 Pig-Plex scope just for these situations. It is tough and rock solid and simple. If I ever suspect a scope problem I swap this one in.
 
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