milboltnut
Well-Known Member
I barely moved away from the mark like .001
If it works for ya stick with it but the thread title didn't ask the question "Do You Crimp"I barely moved away from the mark like .001
I am not an expert, but you can NOT lose what you never hadthat it not necessary
Ya know this is what is called a pretty informal group. There are many other places where the desire to be grammatically or subjectively perfect is desired. We all share our opinions as well as our wins and losses with others.Here if you haven't noticed we tend to wander around exploring as well as relating our experiences. Being off topic is not unusual.The title of the thread is "Why I Crimp" not why anyone else should...
Yes Mam ,but like a fine rifle ,sometimes I need a adjustment too get back on course.Ya know this is what is called a pretty informal group. There are many other places where the desire to be grammatically or subjectively perfect is desired. We all share our opinions as well as our wins and losses with others.Here if you haven't noticed we tend to wander around exploring as well as relating our experiences. Being off topic is not unusual.
What did you discoverThat would be a valid reason to crimp! Some rifles respond favorably to a crimp, some do not. I have started checking if a crimp helps to improve accuracy and/or SD as a step in the process of developing a new load.
In my testing I didnt find a benefit from crimping. It helps keep hammer bullets from moving since they have mush less contact with the case neck. I tried crimping them and found .003 neck tension kept them in place for me and shot better. The only way to know is test it in your rifle. Some benefit and some dont. YMMVWhat did you discover
Thanks Bean I'm gonna try it for sure. On bullets with grooves like hammers do you want to have the crimp in the groove or on other part of bullet that's between the grooves.lm thinking on the hump between the grooves. Am I correct? TribbThe LEE FCD is adjustable, it comes with set up instructions and they work fine but i have found this a very effective tuning tool,This is my procedure, work up a load as you always do Brass Prep, powder, charge weight and seating depth, once you have this established set your die up and loosen til you just have a few threads left, raise a loaded round as if you were gonna crimp it and screw the die down until it touches, take a fine point Sharpie and mark both the Die and the Press, lower the round and turn the die in about 1/16th or so lock the die crimp 5 rounds shoot and compare ( you wont see any indication of a crimp but i assure you if you try to pull that bullet that it did) and then just keep increasing pressure on the Die in small increments until you find the sweet spot. This is my final step in Load Development, I am not a competition shooter by any means and I have never claimed to be. This has been discussed a million times but I will say again that I personally have never seen a load that i loaded that did not respond to FCD, Some more than others but that's another story
AwsomeThe crimp isn't enough to create a pressure spike, at least you shouldn't be crimping that hard. You can get a significant spike if the bullet jams the lands prior to full ignition. I can feel it when I'm shooting. The slight crimp just prevents this from happening. Once we figured out what was going on and started using the LCD, the false pressure signs went away and we were able to increase the powder charge till we got to normal consistent pressure signs before backing off and finding a safe, stable load. Since some would jump into the lands and some would not, we were getting flyers until we started crimping. This pulled everything together remarkably. That was the CM. Not all of our rifles had the same degree of trouble.