Why I Crimp

[asd9055]

The title of the thread is "Why I Crimp" not why anyone else should...

 

[Teri Anne]

I don't see the necessity either way, not saying it doesn't help. I can achieve good results without it.

I thought the same thing, been doing without for over 50 years without any issues and sub MOA groups were never much of an issue. Then had a discussion after Butter Bean's post and decided to give factory crimping on my 300wm a try since it's group sizes were sub MOA but just barely. Loaded up 20 rounds exactly identical, using Nosler Partition 180 gr bullets and trickled IMR 4350 to produce 3050 fps. I did not chronograph the loads since velocity wasn't an issue for me. The two 5 shot groups without the factory crimp averaged 0.75 MOA between them. The crimped rounds using 1/4 turn brought the next two 5 shot groups down to 0.60 average. Not exactly earth shattering, especially for hunting however when shooting competition at 600 or 1000 yards it can mean the difference between a 10 or an X. The X count is for breaking ties. I have lost more than one match by 1 or 2 X counts. Every little bit helps. All my 300WM rounds are now factory crimped and thinking about doing the .270 and 30-06 too when I'm not up to my butt in snow out at the range. Thank you Butter Bean for turning me onto this trick.

 

[ButterBean]

I thought the same thing, been doing without for over 50 years without any issues and sub MOA groups were never much of an issue. Then had a discussion after Butter Bean's post and decided to give factory crimping on my 300wm a try since it's group sizes were sub MOA but just barely. Loaded up 20 rounds exactly identical, using Nosler Partition 180 gr bullets and trickled IMR 4350 to produce 3050 fps. I did not chronograph the loads since velocity wasn't an issue for me. The two 5 shot groups without the factory crimp averaged 0.75 MOA between them. The crimped rounds using 1/4 turn brought the next two 5 shot groups down to 0.60 average. Not exactly earth shattering, especially for hunting however when shooting competition at 600 or 1000 yards it can mean the difference between a 10 or an X. The X count is for breaking ties. I have lost more than one match by 1 or 2 X counts. Every little bit helps. All my 300WM rounds are now factory crimped and thinking about doing the .270 and 30-06 too when I'm not up to my butt in snow out at the range. Thank you Butter Bean for turning me onto this trick.

You are most welcome

 

[Laguna Freak]

I don't see the necessity either way, not saying it doesn't help. I can achieve good results without it.

Not really understanding what benefit you may be attempting to contribute to the readers of this thread with these posts. ???

 

[ButterBean]

Not really understanding what benefit you may be attempting to contribute to the readers of this thread with these posts. ???

He's just taking to be talking

 

[milboltnut]

Not really understanding what benefit you may be attempting to contribute to the readers of this thread with these posts. ???

that it not necessary

 

[motrapper]

And Look he Keeps Talking. LOL PGA please

 

[milboltnut]

oh I hope I didn't loose my creditability here with the experts

 

[QuietTexan]

So the real reason flame annealing doesn't work is....

Shoot wait, Hammers are magical because....

Got dangit wait, crimping sucks because.....

I can't keep track of all of Bean's terrible, awful, no-good, very bad ideas that don't work Except on targets that is.

 

[WildRose]

Holding a bullet in place is not the goal here. Tuning start pressure to the load can often get ES down in the single digits. This is very important in lowering vertical spread in long range groups. It is really no different than tuning OAL or turning necks. Each little adjustment can get you better performance at long range. Playing around with these "Little Things" are what makes our hobby so rewarding.

I find it very helpful for both especially for my bigger cased magnums. Even factory rounds have been known to "walk" in the magazine.

I do know this, when I firs started paying attention to neck tension after some discussion with beans I started putting a light crimp on all of my ammo and immediately saw enough positive results to justify the extra step which costs me all of probably 20 minutes on a hundred rounds.

 

[WildRose]

good gravy 22 pages on why you crimp ? LOL

I have .001 neck tension and I had one bullet barely move in the magazine for my deer rifle... so no, I can't justify crimping. Loading pistol ammo to get rid of a bell for my revolver, yeah. After 12 round tests I was ok without it even at the end of a max load. I marked the bullets at the case mouth with a fine point pen.

If what you're doing works for you that's all that matters.

 

[Orange Dust]

I don't see the necessity either way, not saying it doesn't help. I can achieve good results without it.

Correct. It is only necessary if you are having bullets move in the neck... i.e; recoil, some semi autos etc. You can also tune long range loads without crimping for low ES. Like I said earlier, this is just another thing you can fine tune if you are trying to get the most out of your long range equipment. Nothing more, nothing less.

 

[ButterBean]

So the real reason flame annealing doesn't work is....

Shoot wait, Hammers are magical because....

Got dangit wait, crimping sucks because.....

I can't keep track of all of Bean's terrible, awful, no-good, very bad ideas that don't work Except on targets that is.

 

[Bob Wright]

good gravy 22 pages on why you crimp ? LOL

I have .001 neck tension and I had one bullet barely move in the magazine for my deer rifle... so no, I can't justify crimping. Loading pistol ammo to get rid of a bell for my revolver, yeah. After 12 round tests I was ok without it even at the end of a max load. I marked the bullets at the case mouth with a fine point pen.

You had one bullet "move"? Did you measure it? (Ink doesn't count as a measurement).
If that's OK, keep doing what your doing and scroll on by a solution to that.