In my old age it was pointed out to me that most cases stretch a bit on first firing, some brands more than others. Tried this https://creativereloadingsolutions.com/product/the-perfect-crimp-hull-trimmer/ and got every single hull to star crimp perfectly. Even what I consider some junk brand hulls loaded, crimped and fired fine when matching the correct wad to a given hull. Hulls only stretch on the first firing so only need to trim once during its lifetime. Used a Lee LoadAll and a Mec600.
12 gauge shot shell reloading
- Thread starter bowhunter1287
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MarkInPA
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Anybody interested in some free 12 gauge empty shotgun shell hulls. I would estimate these to be about 20 years old. I have some Federal Gold Medal, Winchester Double A's, and some of the Remington green hulls. I have them in Paper ream boxes. Approximately 6 of them. I'll even through in a few Federal 12S3 wads. All I ask is that you pay for the shipping. Send me a private message if you are interested.
bowhunter1287
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Anybody have a good load suggestion loads for Aa hulls. Looking to close match the Aa 1300 1 1/8 load? Or good wad recommendation for good patterns thanks
KNOTFERSAIL
Well-Known Member
Do you have a powder preference you're using? Might help so you get data that is relevant to you.
bowhunter1287
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I was looking at Aa super handicap but am open to whatever right
KNOTFERSAIL
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Hardshot
Well-Known Member
AA hulls red ones 8 crimp . AA wads or clay busters 1 1/8 oz 18.5 of Red dot is a good handy cap load
MarkInPA
Well-Known Member
According to the Hodgen website, I found the following. This is based on CCI209 primers and 1 1/8 oz. loads with 12P18 wads. I'm not familiar with the 12P18 wad.
Check out the Hodgen website for yourself following the link. You can plug in all the variables that you want. If it was me, I would start with the chart below.
You really should be cross referencing anything that someone tells you with a reputable published source such as this.
hodgdonreloading.com
Check out the Hodgen website for yourself following the link. You can plug in all the variables that you want. If it was me, I would start with the chart below.
You really should be cross referencing anything that someone tells you with a reputable published source such as this.
Reloading Data Center – Hodgdon Reloading Data Center
hodgdonreloading.com
MarkInPA
Well-Known Member
Knotfersail also makes a good point. It has been brought to my attention that the Winchester double AA hulls have undergone a redesign. So when you are checking your load data, make sure you are looking at load data for the version hull you want to reload. I'm not sure how easy that may be to find load data for the old style double AA hulls. The load data I referenced above is for the current production hull.
If you are interested in load data for the old style, let me know. I can find it for you. If you wish, I could mail to you a old IMR loading manual from back in the 90's. This was back before Hodgdon owned IMR.
bowhunter1287
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According to the Hodgen website, I found the following. This is based on CCI209 primers and 1 1/8 oz. loads with 12P18 wads. I'm not familiar with the 12P18 wad.
Check out the Hodgen website for yourself following the link. You can plug in all the variables that you want. If it was me, I would start with the chart below.
You really should be cross referencing anything that someone tells you with a reputable published source such as this.
Reloading Data Center – Hodgdon Reloading Data Center
View attachment 599795
I have been looking at a lot of data. Just didn't know if someone found a more consistent load with a certain powder or wads.
bowhunter1287
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Does anyone know what the real difference between old style and new style hulls aren't the old Aa better hulls then the new style but aren't both of them still compression load style hulls
I think the old style hulls we're a single straight taper hull.
The new hulls are a two piece tapered hull. So you need a wad for tapered hulls. Also the tapered hulls will have a higher pressure than a straight hull so less powder is used.
At least that's what my brain is remembered.
Double check I might be incorrect.
Lyman shot shell reloading manual has a good explanation with pictures.
The new hulls are a two piece tapered hull. So you need a wad for tapered hulls. Also the tapered hulls will have a higher pressure than a straight hull so less powder is used.
At least that's what my brain is remembered.
Double check I might be incorrect.
Lyman shot shell reloading manual has a good explanation with pictures.
MarkInPA
Well-Known Member
All that I can tell you is that this is a load that worked well for me. Other than I don't recognize that wad. I would think that this would be a good place to start.
Husky user
Well-Known Member
I load for trap shooting and have for years.
I get once fired hulls from buddies that don't reload.
Only reload Winchester& Remington hulls that use the same wad.
The biggest problem now days is powder(for awhile it was primers)
I have enough bushings that I can buy what ever powder I find (you need to weigh your charge when switching)
Years ago I used Red Dot,then switched to Clays,then 700X,have been using Tite Wad this summer.
I still save about $2.00 a box $7,50 vs $9.50
I get once fired hulls from buddies that don't reload.
Only reload Winchester& Remington hulls that use the same wad.
The biggest problem now days is powder(for awhile it was primers)
I have enough bushings that I can buy what ever powder I find (you need to weigh your charge when switching)
Years ago I used Red Dot,then switched to Clays,then 700X,have been using Tite Wad this summer.
I still save about $2.00 a box $7,50 vs $9.50
