Muzzle Brakes?

I have a SRS Little Chub on a Thompson Center Encore in 6.5PRC, which tames the recoil very well.
Although some brakes help, I think muzzle rise has more to do with the stock design and your body positioning on the stock.

Charles13 said:

I have been watching many videos on brakes. Most of which are comparisons done on smaller caliber guns. I have a Seekins Havok PH2 in 6.5 PRC with their Seekins brake. It seems to jump up enough that im not seeing my impacts from 100 out to 1000 yards. So long story short lol has anyone found a brake or compensater that has helped keep them on target? Thank you in advance.

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Recoil and muzzle rise are synonymous, however, there are different styles of muzzle brakes designed to do other things besides reduce recoil. Sniper, or target brakes usually have large ports cut into the side designed to vent the gasses out the side. The bottom of the brake is solid steel to keep any gas from being vented downward. This keeps gasses from venting downward and blowing grass and other debris from coming back over the shooter. This does two things, helps prevent muzzle rise, and helps to keep the shooter's location less visible. On top of these muzzle brakes there are also gas vents. These direct gas vertically and help to hold the muzzle down. I had a custom muzzle brake built to the specifications above by America's Gunsmiths down in Burlington, Wisconsin several years ago for a Browning AB-3 in 300 win mag. The brake reduced recoil to a level between that of a 243 and 308, really comfortable with the added plus of no debris blown into the air when in the prone position and no barrel rise making follow up shots a lot faster. I just had a similar brake put on one of my students Tikka T3x in 30-06 which brought the recoil down to that of a 243 again with no debris blowing and no muzzle rise.

I recently purchased a vintage Remington 700 in 338 Win Mag. I am upgrading it, new trigger, new stock and a different muzzle brake. It currently has a brake that has a number of holes around its circumference. While it does a reasonable job of recoil relief, it produces a lot of debris blowing when shooting prone and does not keep the muzzle from rising. This is the only type of brake that I have found that prevents muzzle rise.

If you want to look at an example: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1003365141?pid=570743

I look at what pros use. Many great ones.

Allen Lone wolf said:

APA Lil Bastard tunable muzzle brake works great. I have one on a 6.5 prc and 7mm prc. My brother has one on a 28 nosler

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They work great. I have 4. On a 300 wm, 7mm RM, 300 Rum and a 257 Weatherby. Top ports keep muzzle down well .
Sorry, mine are micro bastards. All gen. 3.

Tommy T said:

Unknown munitions has a salmon river brakes and they work great I use them on 338 lapua down to 22CM just go to there web site and pick out the one want on my 6.5 Prc I use the 4 port titanium You will like them

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I just bought one of their 4 port brakes for a Tikka 300 wm. Haven't shot it with that brake yet. Still waiting for their bottom metal and mag.

I have 2 favorite brakes.....apa fat bastard gen3 on my 30" 300rum throwin 250atips has less kick than my 6.5creed lightweight and i also love my 419 hellfire on my 32" 33xc. they are both very equal in my opinion as ive swaped them around a couple times to test and no real difference

Charles13 said:

I have been watching many videos on brakes. Most of which are comparisons done on smaller caliber guns. I have a Seekins Havok PH2 in 6.5 PRC with their Seekins brake. It seems to jump up enough that im not seeing my impacts from 100 out to 1000 yards. So long story short lol has anyone found a brake or compensater that has helped keep them on target? Thank you in advance.

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Take your brake off and chrono. If velocity is higher with brake, brake is too tight. Ran into this several times.

I use Ultradyne mostly and currently have 1 on an AR6.5PRC. Recoil is like shooting a 22lr.

frostop said:

I have a SRS Little Chub on a Thompson Center Encore in 6.5PRC, which tames the recoil very well.

The ‘Lil Chub – Salmon River Solutions

www.salmonriversolutions.com

Although some brakes help, I think muzzle rise has more to do with the stock design and your body positioning on the stock.

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Yup,. ^^^ Agree,..
AND Using, LIGHTER Weight, Bullets,. HELP'S,.. a LOT, also !!
All But, 2 of My Rifles have Brakes, NOW ! ( One's, a .22 LR the Other is, a 7 x 30 Waters, T / C, a 5 lb., Back Packing, Rifle ).
My Braked, 8 lb. Rem 700,. .22-250 with, 50 Gr. V-Maxes @ 3,550 FPS, allows me to Watch,. Sage Rats,.. "Explode" as, NO,.. Muzzle, "Jump" !
And,. a NICE Line of, HOLES on, the Top of, the Brake,.. Help with,.. THAT, also !!!

Michael Lares said:

Take your brake off and chrono. If velocity is higher with brake, brake is too tight. Ran into this several times.

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Good to know thanks!

skipglo said:

MDT makes a tunable break...and they work! As a side note...what magnification are you usually shooting at?

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20 power

TI Pro for me

Barbourcreek said:

It's not just the brake
Stock design with low heel and body not square behind the gun

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Thank you James that does make perfect sense. I noticed when i used rubber feet on my Atlas that it jumped around much more than now that ive went to steel feet. Im headed out to shoot tomorrow so ill try loading up the bipod a bit more.

tim1457 said:

Rifle stocks can also make a difference in seeing your hits. I watched a video (which I'll try to attach) by James from Barbour Creek awhile back discussing this. I'm sure James can chime in on this in more detail.

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Thanks a bunch Tim that all makes a lot of sense!

I seriously appreciate you all taking time to help me out! Have not been at this long range shooting for long but it is sure a bunch of fun hearing that steel ring way the heck out there. Puts a big as smile on my face lol. Thanks again everyone. I am sure i will have lots more silly questions!