Need a broadhead for elk

Shocked at how many still advocate for mechanicals, especially on elk. They work great, until they don't. I would never risk getting burned by one on an elk hunt. And it's not even just a lack of penetration issue or a possible blade failure issue. Watch this and then decide.

sellce said:

I use iron will single bevel 125g , they are accurate and penetrate amazing

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I second the iron will broadheads

Kudu in 100gr. Minimal tunning if any, come sharp, penetrate very well, very quiet in flight.

Critter Picker said:

What I tell all archery safety students. You never trust a safety on a gun because it's a mechanical device.

Tha Wisconsin State broadhead shoot required fixed blade broadheads until a few years ago. Most shooters still use fixed blade because of durability. My first three choices would be.

1. Slick Trick
2. Thunderhead
3. Muzzy Trocar

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FEENIX said:

Another vote for the Slick Trick!

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Is there a particular model that y'all would recommend? There are quite a few different slick tricks on their website. Regardless of what I do on this upcoming trip, I definitely want to try some slick tricks. I shoot a lot of hogs every year and they're the perfect medium for trying out new projectiles!

ChanceInTexas said:

What mechanical are you currently shooting? With as little time as you have to "play" with anything, I'd go with Grim Reaper 1 3/8" Razor TIP (NOT the Razor CUT). And I'd get the 125gr. That should help a little on FOC, which should help in penetration and accuracy on longer shots. That extra 25 gr probably wont even be noticeable until you get out past 30 or 40 yards, and even then not by much. My next choice would be a Gravedigger Hybrid in 125gr. They look like they would fly horrible, but are crazy accurate. But you WILL need to adjust the tension on the blades just a smidge, to your liking. They are an awesome head. Next would probably be a Rage Hypodermic. NOTHING leaves a bloodtrail like these. But a Grave Digger is awful close. Spitfire would be next on my list. They were my go-to for many years. Now I prefer the Grim Reaper over a Spitfire for the simple fact that they open easier. I feel the Grim Reaper gets better penetration. Seems like some others on here also agree on the Grim Reaper. Get the 1 3/8" Razor Tip. That would be my #1 choice in your situation.

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I've been shooting a wasp jackhammer mechanical. I think I got the model name right but at any rate, it is a WASP mechanical. It flies like my field points and I've killed probably 40 or 50 white tails with that. I really do like the look of those grim reapers and may move to those for a mechanical. I kill 8-10 whitetails each year with my bow. So I've got a good opportunity to try several new things out. But sounds like for this upcoming trip I might go with the Grim Reaper.

Bominiscious said:

Is there a particular model that y'all would recommend? There are quite a few different slick tricks on their website. Regardless of what I do on this upcoming trip, I definitely want to try some slick tricks. I shoot a lot of hogs every year and they're the perfect medium for trying out new projectiles!

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Slick trick standard - 1 inch cut
Magnum- 1-1/8 inch cut
Vipertrick- elk 101 guys used this head for many years.

Bominiscious said:

I've been shooting a wasp jackhammer mechanical. I think I got the model name right but at any rate, it is a WASP mechanical. It flies like my field points and I've killed probably 40 or 50 white tails with that. I really do like the look of those grim reapers and may move to those for a mechanical. I kill 8-10 whitetails each year with my bow. So I've got a good opportunity to try several new things out. But sounds like for this upcoming trip I might go with the Grim Reaper.

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What grain head you use?

If you do use the grim reaper, after you screw them on make sure you open and close the blades to be sure there is no weird resistance.

The new ones are pressed together and so never a problem, but the older ones you had to hold them together as you screw them in and once in a while the spring wouldn't seat correctly and one blade would be really stiff to open.

Jak-hammers are good.... basically the same as grim reaper - I would get the select a cut 1-1/2 inch version for a more swept blade angle.... increase penetration

Bominiscious said:

Is there a particular model that y'all would recommend? There are quite a few different slick tricks on their website. Regardless of what I do on this upcoming trip, I definitely want to try some slick tricks. I shoot a lot of hogs every year and they're the perfect medium for trying out new projectiles!

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I have been shooting the Slick Trick Standard for years even on elk.

sellce said:

I use iron will single bevel 125g , they are accurate and penetrate amazing

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Single bevel blade penetration and Damage To Bone is impressive. I really like that bleeder on the Iron Will, but I'm not sure that makes it 50% pricier. VPA (https://www.amazon.com/Vantage-Point-Archery-Broadheads-Traditional/dp/B0BV38VH9C?tag=lrhmag19-20) is my choice in BH. Putting the final edge on a VPA BH is on the buyer.

I shoot the same setup as the OP with a slightly shorter draw length. My arrows come off the string with a RH twist, so I'm looking at the (tip-high) shiny side of the bevel being to the right. Arrows are perfectly indexed and BH lays perfectly flat. There is no appreciable impact shift between my hunting and target arrows out to 90yds. 5mm Axis Match Grade 300 spine. 30.5" shaft. Right helical fletchings. Bare shaft weight is 329gr. Total arrow weight is 529gr. 16% FOC. One buck, two does, one hog ... 100% pass-throughs (all less than 32yds).

Best of luck with your hunt, Bominiscious.

I go with an Annihilator 100 gr. XL for a fixed head. Make sure whatever fixed head you use, have enough vane to stabalize it. I don't care for any mechanicals that open much past 1-1/4 to 1-1/2. Limits penetration too much. My prefered mechanical was a Rocket Steelhead. I'm not sure you can find those anymore.
Also, I'm not a two blade fan of any head. I prefer the head to cut a hole instead of a slice. If someone starts talking about kinetic energy and archery, walk the other way. An arrow doesn't kill by kinetic energy. You want fast and flat, and accurate. Put the rock in the hole! The heaviest hunting arrow I've ever used weighed 390 grs. Many of the elk I've killed were with a 350 gr. arrow, with mostly pass throughs!

I'm a Iron Will fan myself, You have to have your bow turned but they fly very well and I have killed 2 Bulls with them, one at 80 yards and the second one at 70 yards. I use the wide series which have a 2 1/4" cutting surface. With that said I'm hunt a mule deer as we speak with a expandable Beast and I will have to admit they fly fantastic but I haven't put my buck down as of yet.
There is a very interesting pod cast that was just put out by Hoyt (By the numbers. Jeremy Dugger) Worth listening to.
Good luck.

Another vote for QAD exodus...accurate and strong. You will not regret it.

dfanonymous said:

I use with great success fixed broadheads.

Out of 100 stalks I say a 1/3 end up being longer shots. I haven't had any problems as I tune the arrow to the bow.

That said, I subscribe to the two holes theory. For that reason I use single bevels. This year I'm trying out tooth of the arrow. Only taken a mile deer this far.

Prior I've used iron wills, works great. Tuffheads, ozcut are good too.

The key is tuning the arrow to the bow.
Starting with the proper spine for the set up, the arrow weight, arrow profile ( I use 4mms), helical fletched etc. I match the weight to what speeds I'm looking to get, and look for the speeds I need to at certain distances that I find while out hunting.

There's more than just the broadhead at play.

Another tuning tip is make sure the vanes are bigger than the broadhead they are suppose to steer. I personally use smaller vanes, but I use a right helical and go with smaller profile broadheads. I'm looking for pass throughs. Larger cut broadheads CAN have a harder time with penetration. Especially for elk and even more so at distance.

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Spot on. My son and I use 100gr Thunderheads and have no problem with accuracy at 60 yds. He shoots 82# Hoyt and up to 2 years ago I shot Hoyt XXL at 72# but shoulder crapped. My son shoots 4MM 250 spine and I shoot Black Eagle Rampage 300 spine.

Forget the need for warp speed, sufficient spine is friend shooting broadheads. Less deflection at arrow release will increase arrow accuracy. Arrow mass will help drive thru larger animals along with fixed sharp broadhead.

Easier to tune, quieter, increased accuracy with "heavier" spined shafts. Whatever arrow you use, spin test once you have broadhead on tightly. We found how any broadhead is screwed into shaft affects balance. O-rings, collars, etc can affect balance and experiment whether needed to achieve balance. If we can't get balance without blades, that specific broadhead does not get shot. Sometimes that happens. We also spin finished shafts with same thought. If finished shaft cannot balance, it gets set aside. We "sometimes" sort brass and bullets, why not broadheads and shafts?

We spin test all arrows once we get to hunting area in addition to shooting prior to hunt to make sure shaft balance wasn't disturbed during transport. Takes couple minutes and can save a trip.

One of the interesting things we found was our bows were more efficient by absorbing more bow energy and really did not lose much speed and arrows carried more speed and energy down range.

Fixed broadheads fly fine if you make the effort to tune your bow accordingly. IMO, more likely to achieve pass throughs even on elk. Two holes will always provide optimum tracking. JM2¢

Bominiscious said:

Is there a particular model that y'all would recommend? There are quite a few different slick tricks on their website. Regardless of what I do on this upcoming trip, I definitely want to try some slick tricks. I shoot a lot of hogs every year and they're the perfect medium for trying out new projectiles!

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As stated earlier I also have used Slik Trick standard for years.