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zero range

Clem Bronkoski

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2019
Messages
569
Location
Locust Gap, PA
I'm looking at ballistics charts to determine my zero range for my B-14 HMR 300 Win Mag. Seems like it doesn't make too much of a difference whether its 100 or 200 yds. I just plugged in some numbers using a .484 BC and 3025 MV for a 180 gr bullet. At 1000 and 1500 yds the elevation adjustment in MOA for 100 yd zero and 27.6 and 63.2. The adjustment with a 200 yd zero is 26.5 and 62 MOA.
I believe I can be more precise zeroing at 100. What say you gentlemen (and ladies).
 
Thutty thirty, an inch High @ 100,.. EVERYTHING Else,.. 200 Yards !
I also TEST all my Reloads for, Best group, "Accuracy" at, 200 yds
Lefty IMO you're only 1/2 right with your load testing. Yes accuracy is very important but so is stability. "Best group" may only happen occasionally. That is why when I do load development I use the Satterlee tests to determine the nodes in my handload then once they are determined I load rounds with those nodes to determine which has the best accuracy. With this method I have the most stable and accurate load for my rifle. My groups may not be as tight as I can get with a different charge occasionally but they will be more consistent and my MOA adjustment at varying ranges will be more reliable.
What I'm trying to say is using your method one charge may shoot 5 shots into 3/4" one day you decide is you're most accurate load. The next day that same load may put the 5 shots into 1 1/4" then the next time it may shoot the 5 rounds into 1/2" all dependent on enviornmental conditions. But I can take my loads using my method and if it shoots 1" (or whatever) groups it will do that every time over varying conditions.
 
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I'm looking at ballistics charts to determine my zero range for my B-14 HMR 300 Win Mag. Seems like it doesn't make too much of a difference whether its 100 or 200 yds. I just plugged in some numbers using a .484 BC and 3025 MV for a 180 gr bullet. At 1000 and 1500 yds the elevation adjustment in MOA for 100 yd zero and 27.6 and 63.2. The adjustment with a 200 yd zero is 26.5 and 62 MOA.
I believe I can be more precise zeroing at 100. What say you gentlemen (and ladies).
That is correct You'd only save the difference of the elevation between the two distances which is typically about 1 moa for most rifle rounds.

You can zero at what ever distance you want and the calculator can figure it out for you. What is more important that zero is truly zero, any error in your zero will be magnified at distance.

IMO the only reason to zero at any other distance than 100 would be to use MPBR for hunting purpose where you intend to never dial the scope.

or in an ELR rifle where you will be running a zero offset that is equal to your drop at a specific distance you never intend to shoot inside of.
 
I'll add when hunting I zero at 100 but I will add the dial to give my Max Point Blank Range and then I can shoot inside that distance confidently on the fly, (usually about 350 yards) after that you can range and still dial your optic and when you get home just crank it back down to zero and you're good to go.
 
I have a bit of a different view on rifle zeros…..at least with our cartridges/ bullets/ velocities/ scopes.


Our hunting rifles/cartridges don't shoot as flat as those of many of you. We use the Leupold CDS scopes, and as a hunting package, we do not want to have more than 1 full turn on the turret. This will totally eliminate a possible screw-up when hunting. We also limit our shooting distances on game well within one revolution usage.

All of that said, we use a 300 yard zero! I feel that my adjustments can be just as accurate, perhaps more so, than a 100 yard zero. Example: with one click using a 1/4" or 1/4 mil adjustment has far less bullet impact difference @ 300 than @ 100. My reasoning suggests that my adjustments are more finite! This will also help minimize the differences that may be seen due to varying atmospheric (temperatures/elevations/BC inaccuracies, ect.) conditions you may experience when hunting.


As these are big game rifles, not used for small varmint or competitive shooting, this easily keeps us "holding on hair" from the muzzle to 400 yards. You merely hold a bit low from around 150 to 200 yards….on a long shot, hold a bit higher on the shoulder. This is more than adequate for cartridges/bullets that do not require "surgically placed" shots on big game to effectively take game from any angle at the ranges at which we will take a shot.

Sometimes shots offered under 400 yards have a brief window of opportunity to set-up on sticks for the shot…..taking the additional time to "range" the shot may eliminate the shot opportunity. Shots measured @ 400 and beyond can then be easily adjusted for….and "generally" offer an animal not aware of your presence.


I'm not suggesting this for everyone……it's merely our method, used for 30 plus years! Once comfortable with this method…..inside of 400 yards, shots are a reflex action! memtb
 
I have a bit of a different view on rifle zeros…..at least with our cartridges/ bullets/ velocities/ scopes.


Our hunting rifles/cartridges don't shoot as flat as those of many of you. We use the Leupold CDS scopes, and as a hunting package, we do not want to have more than 1 full turn on the turret. This will totally eliminate a possible screw-up when hunting. We also limit our shooting distances on game well within one revolution usage.

All of that said, we use a 300 yard zero! I feel that my adjustments can be just as accurate, perhaps more so, than a 100 yard zero. Example: with one click using a 1/4" or 1/4 mil adjustment has far less bullet impact difference @ 300 than @ 100. My reasoning suggests that my adjustments are more finite! This will also help minimize the differences that may be seen due to varying atmospheric (temperatures/elevations/BC inaccuracies, ect.) conditions you may experience when hunting.


As these are big game rifles, not used for small varmint or competitive shooting, this easily keeps us "holding on hair" from the muzzle to 400 yards. You merely hold a bit low from around 150 to 200 yards….on a long shot, hold a bit higher on the shoulder. This is more than adequate for cartridges/bullets that do not require "surgically placed" shots on big game to effectively take game from any angle at the ranges at which we will take a shot.

Sometimes shots offered under 400 yards have a brief window of opportunity to set-up on sticks for the shot…..taking the additional time to "range" the shot may eliminate the shot opportunity. Shots measured @ 400 and beyond can then be easily adjusted for….and "generally" offer an animal not aware of your presence.


I'm not suggesting this for everyone……it's merely our method, used for 30 plus years! Once comfortable with this method…..inside of 400 yards, shots are a reflex action! memtb
That's essentially MPBR with out doing the calculations.
 
Lefty IMO you're only 1/2 right with your load testing. Yes accuracy is very important but so is stability. "Best group" may only happen occasionally. That is why when I do load development I use the Satterlee tests to determine the nodes in my handload then once they are determined I load rounds with those nodes to determine which has the best accuracy. With this method I have the most stable and accurate load for my rifle. My groups may not be as tight as I can get with a different charge occasionally but they will be more consistent and my MOA adjustment at varying ranges will be more reliable.
What I'm trying to say is using your method one charge may shoot 5 shots into 3/4" one day you decide is you're most accurate load. The next day that same load may put the 5 shots into 1 1/4" then the next time it may shoot the 5 rounds into 1/2" all dependent on enviornmental conditions. But I can take my loads using my method and if it shoots 1" (or whatever) groups it will do that every time over varying conditions.
AFTER a Few, 5 shot Group's ,.. I Do, 10 Shot group's at, 200 Yards to determine IF, the Load is, REALLY "Good" then, Move out to, 500- 600 yds for, MORE Testing and Proofing Out, the BC's / arc and, the Velocity.
I also Do, Many COLD Bore shots, Before going Hunting.
I Live, a mere 15 miles from, my Rolling Desert, testing / Shooting Area ( Very, Handy ).
Our Family shoots about, Once a Month or, more,.. weather, dependent.
 
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I won't get much shooting done with this new rifle because I'll be heading to FL for the winter and I really have no where to shoot down there unless I travel a couple hours. Even then those ranges normally only have 100 yd rifle ranges. I should take the rifle with and ask a couple ranchers nearby if I can utilize their property to shoot.
 
I'm looking at ballistics charts to determine my zero range for my B-14 HMR 300 Win Mag. Seems like it doesn't make too much of a difference whether its 100 or 200 yds. I just plugged in some numbers using a .484 BC and 3025 MV for a 180 gr bullet. At 1000 and 1500 yds the elevation adjustment in MOA for 100 yd zero and 27.6 and 63.2. The adjustment with a 200 yd zero is 26.5 and 62 MOA.
I believe I can be more precise zeroing at 100. What say you gentlemen (and ladies).
I would zero at 300 or 400 yds for the long ranges you're talking about. 1/2 to 3/4 moa at 400 is confidence inspiring.
 
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