greenejc
Well-Known Member
vertical impact is not really effected by wind unless its blowing to or from you and only a very little then.
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Why am i shooting to the left
- Thread starter nealm66
- Start date
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In order of likelyhood:
1) Trigger finger placement- I've done experiments even at 300 yards that cause lots of horizontal dispersion just on finger placement on the trigger.
2) Lateral cheek weld pressure On the stock
3) Sight picture issue- parrallax, canting rifle etc.
4) scope (though not likely since it's across multiple platforms) I've tested some scopes on a heavy tracking rig Where the reticles would actually move in a "C" shaped pattern. That would vary slightly to left or right then come back to center. I've only seen it once but if I didn't have multiple witnesses I would have never believed it if I had heard about it. Again not likely since you're seeing the same across multiple rifles.
1) Trigger finger placement- I've done experiments even at 300 yards that cause lots of horizontal dispersion just on finger placement on the trigger.
2) Lateral cheek weld pressure On the stock
3) Sight picture issue- parrallax, canting rifle etc.
4) scope (though not likely since it's across multiple platforms) I've tested some scopes on a heavy tracking rig Where the reticles would actually move in a "C" shaped pattern. That would vary slightly to left or right then come back to center. I've only seen it once but if I didn't have multiple witnesses I would have never believed it if I had heard about it. Again not likely since you're seeing the same across multiple rifles.
nealm66
Well-Known Member
After placing the bubble on one of the rifles and just bedding down with it, I can see where it could easily just be me canting it slightly but wouldn't that be a non issue if I'm using the turrets ? I checked with a redneck plumb bob and it seems perfect for the scope mount
nealm66
Well-Known Member
It could easily be me for sure
greenejc
Well-Known Member
Did you change parallax as you changed distance? Did you change powers as you changed distances? Put up range flags so you can see changes in wind at intermediate and final distances, too.
nealm66
Well-Known Member
Ya, I'm feeling confident with the parallex. Wind/mirage where I've been shooting 1000 could definitely be what's bringing it back but it's just weird that I see it with multiple rifles. A couple are zeroed at 100 the rest at 200. Doesn't seem to matter. I haven't shot any paper in between 2 and 600 yards but there's some pretty small ( maybe 3"?) steel targets at 3 and 4hundred that I'll plink and never seem to miss while I'm dialing out
Aggressive trigger finger can cause this or a trigger with higher pull weight. Try using the tip of your finger, about 1/2" below the tip of your finger. We all have a tendency to pull ever so slightly with our trigger finger. I used to have the problem you're experiencing. A friend of mine is a retired sniper and watched me shooting one day and said I should modify my trigger pull style to what I explained above. This eliminated my pulling the shot. Every once in a while I have to remind myself of finger position on the trigger. Give it a try and be repeatable every time. Do not put the trigger by your Knuckle joint crease but more towards your finger tip.
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greenejc
Well-Known Member
Put up range flags and put it on paper at 400 and 500. Also, 6" at 600 is less than 1 moa. The range flags will tell you the wind at midpoint, which may be the problem. The paper will tell you actual impact at distance. If it were trigger pull or stock weld you should not see a return to zero in windage at 1,000 yards. The windage error would be extended. I'm thinking that there are wind shifts between you and your target.
Agree with greenejc. You are shooting at a fairly flat range where wind changes are inevitable. Hot air balloonists change direction by adjusting height above ground where 180 degree wind shifts are common. Ground effects , Coriolis effects and spin drift can add to wind changes to affect bullet travel. Competition shooters often put range flags every 200 yards or so to see the wind changes downrange. I did it shooting smallbore competiton with flags every 20 yards out to the 100 yard targets. regarding scopes, make sure the vertical reticle points to the centerline of the bore. When in shooting positiion move the eye left and right to make sure there is no shift in point of aim. If there is a shift in POA then the scope is out of parallax adjustment. Change the parallax adjustment until the shift is minimal or hopefully zero. Just some thoughts.
greenejc
Well-Known Member
Good thoughts, too.
450hunter
Well-Known Member
Following
nealm66
Well-Known Member
Well if nothing else comes out of this, let it be a good example of why we should shoot our hunting distances. I had another member from up in Seattle asking about somewhere to shoot in eastern Washington and that his local range only went to 300. I shoot at a buddies place in eastern Washington and it isn't a great place to get things dialed in. Always wind. I mentioned the 600 yard competition but haven't heard back. It's pretty protected from any wind and it's enough to find your weak spots before you drive 4 hours and realize your perfect groups are pure shiat at distance. One of the things around here that really puts a dampener on long range is the terrain. A 1000-1200 yard shot is going to take 2 people. One to stay where you shot from and one to try and locate.
Check barrel is not touching the stock. When barrel heats it may touch the stock.this sending the bullets off course.
/\ /\ #4...I had a buddy that was using an older Mark 4 Leupold with the wire reticle that did the exact same thing.
Apparently the internal leaf spring was loose or something making the crosshair move in a lateral increment as the turret was dialed 180 degrees. When reaching a complete revolution... the crosshair was back center.
But the OP has the same issue with other rifles so that rules out.
Head and body position behind the rifle would be my thought of what to address.
Just my 2 cents...
