Who is annealing in sand?

I don't think you have to fill it. 3/4" will be more than enough for most necks. I was thinking of using a copper wire as a stand to push the cases down on to prevent tipping.
I think mine is only about half full, just need enough below the case to keep from contacting the metal of the pot, but with copper that might not be an issue. Not sure what the conductive capacity (is that the right term, I been thinking too hard tonight) of powdered copper is, but copper itself is better than whatever crap the pot is made of
 
I think mine is only about half full, just need enough below the case to keep from contacting the metal of the pot, but with copper that might not be an issue. Not sure what the conductive capacity (is that the right term, I been thinking too hard tonight) of powdered copper is, but copper itself is better than whatever crap the pot is made of

I think the right term is emissivity and copper will be much better than sand or steel.
 
So, with the powdered copper we are thinking it will be easier or less time consuming? Or are we thinking it will provide a better annealing process than what was experienced with sand?
 
So, with the powdered copper we are thinking it will be easier or less time consuming? Or are we thinking it will provide a better annealing process than what was experienced with sand?
I think one plus is not worrying about sand ruining a die or a rifle barrel
 
I think one plus is not worrying about sand ruining a die or a rifle barrel
agree--since bullets are copper alloys i wouldnt think there would be a "dis-similar" metals issues with the brass either, even if a tiny bit clung to the inside of the case it shouldn't hurt anything except maybe the case capacity but you have that slight chance with cleaning media also so just have to keep an eye on it
 
One of the issues about sand that scared me was the possibility of it getting in the rifle barrel. Maybe the powdered copper will be the real deal. Wish I had some local to try. I really like the salt bath way just a little nervous using that hot a liquid.
 
I tried copper but did not pay attention to the temp. As it got to about 700 degrees it turned black and clumped together.

I have done aluminum powder I might try next.
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got any stainless powder? I have a buddy that does 3D printing with a laser/stainless powder for making prototype models-- but hes 3000 miles away from me
 
What about steel bird shot? Is there any of that available that would be fine enough to work?
 
What about steel bird shot? Is there any of that available that would be fine enough to work?
If you got some give it a try...in my mind it seems the larger the particle size the less even the heat transfer to the brass,
But if you know what sous vide cooking is, then you'll track with what I say next...if the temp range for properly annealed brass is 750-1000 then running the pot at, say 985 would allow you to heat the brass but never over heat it.
If you were use some tempilaq 575 just past the body/shoulder junction, and some 850 on the neck itself, then plunge just the neck into the medium of choice you should be able to get a time required to heat the neck enough to anneal, but not overheat the case body.
 
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