Who is annealing in sand?

With the AMP and Ken Light annealers, why would anyone bother with these?
$1395 is why.
This thread was started because a fellow mention running a salt bath setup but with sand instead of salt. That caught the attention of several of us so we wanted more details. I'm always one to challenge current methods in search of a better way. I'm sure the AMP deal is probably amazing but I'm not going to shell out that kind of money at this point. Maybe after a while of searching the world over for a different process that easily and perfectly arrives at the same end result, but for now I'm just not there. And yes I've been guilty of throwing away all kinds of money trying out alternate methods in other endeavors in the past only to end up spending the high sum for the machine that ultimately ended up being the best, but i learned a great deal along the way and was not disappointed. But many times I have concluded that what I want is not manufactured, so I just made it myself.
 
I read a thread where a guy's was bath annealing in melted silica sand. Glass is formed from liquid silca so it seem doable. I currently salt bath anneal, it's cheap have maybe 100$ into my setup, but pondering getting an Annie annealer due to not having to wash and dry my brass after.
 
I added it up last night cost me less than 150$ to get into salt bath
Couldn't find info on sand
I was fixing to order the bench source but I need to save for manners stock more so this thread is getting me both thanks guys
 
I use sand for annealing It's very simple quick and cheap Use play sand or sand for concrete they are both clean. I use a lee pot and start setting on 9 Let it brew till the sand impurities burn off (5-10 minutes) once that impurities burn off there will be no smoke, only need to do this once till you change sand Put setting between 8 and max depending on your pot I use Infrared thermometer and stir sand a little to get accurate reading I get it to 800 to 850 degrees Push your brass in as deep as the area you want annealed @ 5 to 10 seconds, then dump in a bucket or pot; I push 3 or 4 at a time and using both hands I can do a batch of 100 in a very short time Primers should be removed and size after annealing but trim before. If you feel the brass getting hot you are doing it too long You will recognize that color change in the neck confirming you have in fact annealed the brass It's not corrosive like salt and there is no open flame Only way I will ever anneal
 
Salt bath is the easiest way to a perfect process anneal, which is not full annealing, but simple stress relieving. I set 850degF for dipping.
Cape cove, 940 is fine. We just need to stay below full annealing temps(~1100degF).

Just curious if there is an instrument on the market that will maintain the temperature at a constant. I like the salt-bath process, but.....it's a PITA to keep regulating the temperature continually using the knob on the melting pot.
 
Salt bath is the easiest way to a perfect process anneal, which is not full annealing, but simple stress relieving. I set 850degF for dipping.
Cape cove, 940 is fine. We just need to stay below full annealing temps(~1100degF).
By full anneal,do you mean the entire Case? Because the idea of SBA,as I understand it,it to get the case neck/shoulder to the correct temperature without getting the case head too warm.
 
By full anneal,do you mean the entire Case?
No, full annealing is taking brass to dead soft. Ruined IMO.
There are a lot of good threads and videos for use of electronic controllers with this. That's the way to go.

I'm still old school using the knob and an RTD probe & meter for control. I'm also still using lead dip (for around 40yrs now). But I've purchased all needed for electronic control for my pot, and will upgrade to salt one of these days.
 
I use sand for annealing It's very simple quick and cheap Use play sand or sand for concrete they are both clean. I use a lee pot and start setting on 9 Let it brew till the sand impurities burn off (5-10 minutes) once that impurities burn off there will be no smoke, only need to do this once till you change sand Put setting between 8 and max depending on your pot I use Infrared thermometer and stir sand a little to get accurate reading I get it to 800 to 850 degrees Push your brass in as deep as the area you want annealed @ 5 to 10 seconds, then dump in a bucket or pot; I push 3 or 4 at a time and using both hands I can do a batch of 100 in a very short time Primers should be removed and size after annealing but trim before. If you feel the brass getting hot you are doing it too long You will recognize that color change in the neck confirming you have in fact annealed the brass It's not corrosive like salt and there is no open flame Only way I will ever anneal
I think I'm sold on trying this...if for some reason I dont end up with the success you are describing I can always switch to salt...but first gotta get the pot.
 
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