Which rifle route for long range?

[Elkbigfoot]

always a good option. You can make a pretty darn nice rifle for not a ton of $$.. I've done it twice and am really happy with both. Just make sure you know your smith is really good at his craft.
Best of luck
SC

Well the remage could be done at home in 15 minutes they claim. Don't think I would need a smith with that option

 

[XSIVSPD]

Well the remage could be done at home in 15 minutes they claim. Don't think I would need a smith with that option

You'll likely need a Smith to remove your barrel. They tend to be on there with some sort of thread locker

 

[misterc01]

Quick rely to the question: Just get a Ruger Precision 6.5 Creedmoor. 160o Yards out of the box.

 

[ATH]

Quick rely to the question: Just get a Ruger Precision 6.5 Creedmoor. 160o Yards out of the box.

He's talking about hunting. This is obnoxious.

I totally agree with the Remage option. I have built quite a few and with handloads, not a single one has failed to be consistently sub-.5MOA. You don't need a smith to get the factory barrel off, but you do need a vise, a handheld torch, a pipe wrench, heavy hammer, and willingness to trash that factory barrel. The tooling to do this will add up if you seriously intend to only do one rifle ever. But if you do several over the years it makes a lot of sense. I started with a vise made from 2X6s and threaded rod from Lowe's, it cost ~$5 and I built 6-7 rifles with it before I broke it taking off a factory barrel. Invested in a real barrel vise and have done a bunch more.

 

[XSIVSPD]

You don't need a smith to get the factory barrel off, but you do need a vise, a handheld torch, a pipe wrench, heavy hammer, and willingness to trash that factory barrel.

I was assuming he'd want to keep the factory barrel in decent shape lol. If not, what you say will work, just don't heat up the action enough to effect the temper

 

[mnoland30]

Thinking about recoil and penetration, the 6.5 with 140 gr. bullet has a sectional density (SD) of .287. It is well known for great penetration. In Scandinavia they use it for moose. To get that same SD in 30 caliber takes a 180 gr. bulelt, and in 7mm, a 160 gr. There is a huge difference in recoil between 140 gr. and 180 gr. Think about ballistic coefficient also. You can dial in distance, but wind is tougher. And the higher BC makes a big difference at long range. I settled on 7mm back in the day, because they had the highest BC of any bullet (in reasonable weights). Now, Berger makes 156 gr. 6.5s @.679,195 gr. 7mm @ .755, and 245 gr. .30 @ .807. For me to shoot a 245 gr. bullet well would require a muzzle brake. If I were choosing today, I might choose the 6.5, or I might still pick the 7mm.

 

[Wolf76]

I believe about 90% of a guns accuracy is in the barrel. Factory barrels are the luck of the draw. With aftermarket barrels I find they are far less picky about what they shoot, clean easier, and never shoot anything "bad". So for me, I choose a semi custom. Get the stock that fits you like a glove, the barrel with the right specs, and have the action trued + Wyatt's mag extender.
A 300 wm is what I chose for elk and would do it again. 215 Berger has been putting elk down with authority.

 

[misterc01]

He's talking about hunting. This is obnoxious.

I totally agree with the Remage option. I have built quite a few and with handloads, not a single one has failed to be consistently sub-.5MOA. You don't need a smith to get the factory barrel off, but you do need a vise, a handheld torch, a pipe wrench, heavy hammer, and willingness to trash that factory barrel. The tooling to do this will add up if you seriously intend to only do one rifle ever. But if you do several over the years it makes a lot of sense. I started with a vise made from 2X6s and threaded rod from Lowe's, it cost ~$5 and I built 6-7 rifles with it before I broke it taking off a factory barrel. Invested in a real barrel vise and have done a bunch more.

No need for obnoxious replies. The REALLY Funny thing - I find all sorts of references in this very forum for using 6.5 Creedmoor for HUNTING. So it seems obtuse to ignore a REALLY GOOD off-the-shelf rifle capable of exceptionally long ranges. BTW - IMHO Flaming is a waste of forum space.

 

[XSIVSPD]

What kind of stock is that?

Boyd's At-one. I haven't shot it much, but I'm not sure if I like it or not yet. It's got some kinda sharp edges in the grip. I'm going to order or 3d print myself some of the target type grips they offer for it and see if I like it better. Otherwise it'll probably get replaced with a pro varmint

 

[rogerstep]

My humble 2cents: Remington 7mag with a decelerator pad or
338 with a Terminator Brake and a decelerator pad
The decelerator On the 7 makes it a joy to shoot.
The brake and pad on the 338 makes the recoil less than a 270.
With these 2 two I used to have to have a sissy pad at the bench and then only good for
about 10 to 15 rounds per sitting.
Since the pad and brake was added, no sissy pad, no sore shoulder- how nice it is!

 

[rogerstep]

No doubt 338 Norma...next probably a 338 RUM. Build it to 11 pounds put a nice brake on it and poke holes in the wind for a long way. Shooting a slick 250-300 grain bullet is dang near cheating.

AMEN YOU GET MY VOTE

 

[elj1973]

This is what I just built, good option and way less then $5000. Bighorn action (long action) I did the SR3 but you could go with the Origin model which is under $1000. Proof prefit barrel (I did 7mm mag, my Favorite caliber) lots of other companies offer stainless prefit for the Bighorn with a lower cost then the C.F. wrapped. (Sense wieght was not that important to you).I did the new Bell and Carlson long range hunter BDL stock love the feel prone with the shape of it. Completed it out with a Triggertech trigger special trigger, a H.s. Precision DBM and a Terminator T3 Brake. The only gunsmith fee with this set up was the brake timing sense I did not want washers or shims. Total with a action wrench and viper barrel vise right at about $3050 with out glass and you end up with a custom gun minus the gunsmith fees..Yours would be much less with out the DBM and a stainless barrel and Origin action. One other nice thing about this is If I ever fall out of love with the 7mm, swap the barrel and pick a new caliber, like .300WM for example and I think i could even run 300 PRC in it as well.
I went with a Leupold Mark 5 5-25x56 which would put you over $5000, but like others have stated Athlon would be a good budget glass or even vortex PST gen ii (I have 2 of them and never had any issues with them). Total wieght with the leupold is at 9.5 lbs on my kitchen scale. I haven't shot it yet (Covid thing) but I am sure it will be at or under 1/2 moa.

 

[gearguywb]

Tons of good options in todays world. Thats a good thing!

I watched for a good deal on a rifle, they are out there.

Lat winter I bought a trued 700 action custom rifle by Deep South Tactical. Bartleing 3B, TT, 20MOA rail, Grayboe stock. $1800. Liked it so much I bought a second.

IMHO, you just can't pass up a deal like that.....

The first one I bought is chambered in 300 Win Mag. Topped it with a Vortex 3-15x42. Been working on load development. Shot this group Saturday afternoon with 190 Bergers.

My point is, there are good deals on great rifles out there. Take your time and enjoy the hunt (pun intended )

 

[jpope02]

What's your thought on remage barrels?

What is a remage barrel? I use 6.5 Tikka rifles and re-chamber them to 6.5 PRC. They all shoot 1/2 moa@ 100 meters with 22" or 24"with the barrels that came on them from the factory. Now I have an inexpensive, extremely accurate lite weight rifles chambered to non Tikka calibers such as 6.5 Rem Mag, 6.5 PRC, . 270 Wby and .257Wby. Add a 20 moa base and a decent scope that's all it takes.