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Whats the longest shot you would take on a brown bear

Teri Anne, it would be interesting…..hopefully someone my do it. I doubt that John would do it as his livelihood is based around big-bore handguns!

He has a big get together every right outside of Cody, with various African hunters/shooters every year. Been wanting to go for years…..maybe this year! I have no excuses…..it's only 90 miles away! memtb
 
I find this information fascinating for many reasons. First of all using newspaper to check penetration, I've been using it since I was a kid to see how far different ammunition would penetrate. Back then newspaper was easy to find, not so much these days in quantities required to provide at least a 60 inch penetration package. I also used dry newspapers for my unofficial tests so have no idea what the difference would be between dry and wet newspaper. Back then the results were interesting in how much difference the penetration was between the various types of .22 LR ammo, which is what I mostly used back then. With the .22 LR ammo from different manufacturers using mostly 40 gr bullets in both solid and hollow point configuration would penetrate between 4 inches and 12 inches into the paper stacked up in a cardboard box. Needless to say the hollow points did not penetrate as far, but that was to be expected. What was interesting is that it was a couple of brands of lead or copper plated round nose (all that was available at that time) did not penetrate as far into the newspaper as the hollow points did. Based on these experiments is how I determined on which brands I was going to spend my hard earned paper route money on. A few years later I bought my first high power rifle. It was a Marlin 336 chambered in 35 Remington. I tried my dry newspaper box on the .35 and the 200 gr round nose soft point blew through 24 inches of newspaper and left a shredded trail of newsprint spewed out the back side with an exit hole that took out most of the back of the box. That was the last time I used boxed newspaper as a test medium.

What I would have like to see in future experiments shown above, dealing with pistol vs rifle penetration is what a .357 magnum would do with modern heavy ammo like Buffalo Bore 158 and 180 grain or other equivalent ammo might do. Have a S&W Model 19 .357 magnum and some 158 Buffalo Bore ammo. If I can find enough newspaper to check it out I might give it a try. As they say, Inquiring minds want to know. :rolleyes:
Great post and timely for me. I'm dreaming of a top of the heap bucket list hunt I someday want to make. Presently having a Rifle in the build process using a FN Commercial action. Chambering decision is easy as I want the classic 375 H&H. Trying to decide the barrel length at this point. Leaning strongly towards 20" + the addition of a break. Would that be a good choice?
 
Pretty difficult to beat a Model 70 Win. If your heart is not set on a custom build…..used Stainless ( all metal components stainless) Steel rifles can be had. But, they come at a pretty high price. If you keep it at the factory weight…..you won't need to cut and brake. The factory weight, once scoped, loaded, and slung is heavy enough that recoil is pretty tame!

My wife has run 300 grainers through my old (vintage 1982 ish) Model 70….with no complaints. Said she was surprised at how little it kicked. Though, she shot from a sitting position and not from the bench! When I was younger…..40 rounds in a day from the bench was no bad at all. I don't know what another 35 years in age may have changed! 😉

Another stainless factory option would be a Kimber Talkeetna. memtb
 
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Memtb
How is case life with your 375ai??
It seems like that would really help with this case.
As far as barrel length I have an 18 in with a break and it's easy to shoot for sure and I'm not a recoil fan
 
Memtb
How is case life with your 375ai??
It seems like that would really help with this case.
As far as barrel length I have an 18 in with a break and it's easy to shoot for sure and I'm not a recoil fan

I load them pretty warm, and use minimal shoulder set back…..toss the brass after 10 firings. This was with 1980's Winchester brass, 270 TSX's over 2900 fps. My rifle wears a 24" barrel…..I hate breaks and just deal with the recoil! 😉

I'm not burning through components as I once did, so I haven't pushed any to the 10 shot mark in a while!

There is some resistance to bolt closure, which you may not want in a stopping rifle…..which may shorten your case life a little.

My present load is Barnes 250 TTSX's @ 3130 (not quite max. loads). I don't like light bullets but they were the heaviest high BC Barnes' offering when I was buying. I have 4 boxes of 270 grain LRX's that I will be developing a load for this summer…..only do load development in hot weather! I'm hoping for and think I can get them accurately above 3K fps.

I love the extra fps that the AI gives…..adds a few more effective yards to my (only) hunting rifle! memtb
 
Great post and timely for me. I'm dreaming of a top of the heap bucket list hunt I someday want to make. Presently having a Rifle in the build process using a FN Commercial action. Chambering decision is easy as I want the classic 375 H&H. Trying to decide the barrel length at this point. Leaning strongly towards 20" + the addition of a break. Would that be a good choice?
Well I think that your selection of caliber is pretty good as long as you hand load. Not much ammo out there on the shelves for the 375 H&H these days and the prices are between $100 and $150 a box. Makes any practice somewhat impractical from a pocket book standpoint. Anyway that notwithstanding my thoughts would be more towards a 22 or 24 inch barrel with a brake. Get all that you can as far as velocity and energy instead of spewing it out the end of the barrel as useless powder burning in the air as well as muzzle flash. I don't personally know the ballistics of the 375 H&H but other magnums, specifically the 300 Win Mag and 7MM Rem Mag both perform better with longer barrels. My 300 WM had a 26 inch barrel along with a brake and it performed quite well. Even at 26 inches there was unburned powder causing a minor muzzle flash.
 
Well I think that your selection of caliber is pretty good as long as you hand load. Not much ammo out there on the shelves for the 375 H&H these days and the prices are between $100 and $150 a box. Makes any practice somewhat impractical from a pocket book standpoint. Anyway that notwithstanding my thoughts would be more towards a 22 or 24 inch barrel with a brake. Get all that you can as far as velocity and energy instead of spewing it out the end of the barrel as useless powder burning in the air as well as muzzle flash. I don't personally know the ballistics of the 375 H&H but other magnums, specifically the 300 Win Mag and 7MM Rem Mag both perform better with longer barrels. My 300 WM had a 26 inch barrel along with a brake and it performed quite well. Even at 26 inches there was unburned powder causing a minor muzzle flash.

Minimal velocity loss with the 375 H&H until you go below 20"! Or at least that is what the tests that I've read indicate!

I never had the money to experiment by "chopping" pieces off of my rifle barrel! memtb
 
Pretty difficult to beat a Model 70 Win. If your heart is not set on a custom build…..used Stainless ( all metal components stainless) Steel rifles can be had. But, they come at a pretty high price. If you keep it at the factory weight…..you won't need to cut and brake. The factory weight, once scoped, loaded, and slung is heavy enough that recoil is pretty tame!

My wife has run 300 grainers through my old (vintage 1982 ish) Model 70….with no complaints. Said she was surprised at how little it kicked. Though, she shot from a sitting position and not from the bench! When I was younger…..40 rounds in a day from the bench was no bad at all. I don't know what another 35 years in age may have changed! 😉

Another stainless factory option would be a Kimber Talkeetna. memtb
I was lucky enough to buy a New Haven CRF stainless way back, in 375H&H but the cheap stock and a S. Carolina one with laminate stick. Topped both with 1.5-5 leaupolds on QD rings so in heavy brush can use iron sights.
 
I was lucky enough to buy a New Haven CRF stainless way back, in 375H&H but the cheap stock and a S. Carolina one with laminate stick. Topped both with 1.5-5 leaupolds on QD rings so in heavy brush can use iron sights.

If I were buying again, which ain't gonna happen, in a factory rifle….it would probably be the Talkeetna, run a reamer in it for a AI. From what I've read, it's considerably lighter than the Win's….though, I do love the Winchester's! memtb
 
If I were buying again, which ain't gonna happen, in a factory rifle….it would probably be the Talkeetna, run a reamer in it for a AI. From what I've read, it's considerably lighter than the Win's….though, I do love the Winchester's! memtb
Not buying anymore!
 
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Haven't bought in several years! Trying to determine who inherits what, and west to sell to someone that will appreciate the firearms! And….have only had/used one rifle/cartridge since 1990! memtb
i have three kids! They will have to treat me nice! I have used 270, 30.06 and 300WBY. Played with 223/5.56, 300AAC 7.62x39, 5.45x39, 338 LM and 375 H&H. With components where they are, I'll hunt with the first three until I run out.

P.S I have a bunch I never fired. Used but I never shot
 
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