Orange Dust
Well-Known Member
Go for it then
What would you do?
- Thread starter TC338
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tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
I would suggest a .338 LM. My current favorite.
A bit heavy, it owns a bi-pod.
I was taught to shoot from an object, sitting or prone. Thank you, dad for teaching me, back in the early to mid-1960s decade.
I use Norma brass, 330 grain Bergers, a 50 mm collecting lense Vortex, the model escapes me. The name of the powder ran out of the space between my ears.
I was using factory ammo, and was lucky to hit paper at a 1/4 miles.
I had been too busy working and giving my time to the company. But lucky to hit paper?? Ugh.
I reloaded, and immediately was making all shots within an eight inch diameter circle.
Then all shots at a 1/4 mile within the diameter of a quarter, a 25 cent piece.
If you want the data I forgot, send me a message.
And the best of it, my wife of 4+ decades has been on board from the beginning. She did get herself a new rifle at the same time.
Have fun, shoot straight, make the first shot count.
Be safe and have too much fun!
Edit: I use cartridges without powder that I place in my practice stack at my desert place. They are either attached to my belly, temperature control, or in the shade. I fill the magazines, then set aside as I mix them up. No idea which has blanks, and which all live rounds. I do the same with my pistol rounds.
If it does not go boom, the bolt is removed, and I look thru the barrel. I carry a couple of long brass rods, just in case I get a primer fired slug.
One time the brass swelled up. That was the end of my .338 LM shooting that week.
Keep your rounds attached to your belly, 98.6℉, which is a lot lower than 120℉ plus whatever the desert oven makes them. Repeatability and consistency make for stable shooting.
I find that if I do not shoot for too long, I begin to wince, react before the Bang, and just turn into a kid shooing his first rifle.
I talk too much.
HAVE FUN!
A bit heavy, it owns a bi-pod.
I was taught to shoot from an object, sitting or prone. Thank you, dad for teaching me, back in the early to mid-1960s decade.
I use Norma brass, 330 grain Bergers, a 50 mm collecting lense Vortex, the model escapes me. The name of the powder ran out of the space between my ears.
I was using factory ammo, and was lucky to hit paper at a 1/4 miles.
I had been too busy working and giving my time to the company. But lucky to hit paper?? Ugh.
I reloaded, and immediately was making all shots within an eight inch diameter circle.
Then all shots at a 1/4 mile within the diameter of a quarter, a 25 cent piece.
If you want the data I forgot, send me a message.
And the best of it, my wife of 4+ decades has been on board from the beginning. She did get herself a new rifle at the same time.
Have fun, shoot straight, make the first shot count.
Be safe and have too much fun!
Edit: I use cartridges without powder that I place in my practice stack at my desert place. They are either attached to my belly, temperature control, or in the shade. I fill the magazines, then set aside as I mix them up. No idea which has blanks, and which all live rounds. I do the same with my pistol rounds.
If it does not go boom, the bolt is removed, and I look thru the barrel. I carry a couple of long brass rods, just in case I get a primer fired slug.
One time the brass swelled up. That was the end of my .338 LM shooting that week.
Keep your rounds attached to your belly, 98.6℉, which is a lot lower than 120℉ plus whatever the desert oven makes them. Repeatability and consistency make for stable shooting.
I find that if I do not shoot for too long, I begin to wince, react before the Bang, and just turn into a kid shooing his first rifle.
I talk too much.
HAVE FUN!
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.338 LM or .338-.378 Wby.
300 grain Bergers and Vihtavouri N570
300 grain Bergers and Vihtavouri N570
Allen Lone wolf
Well-Known Member
I was looking at the same project and went with the savage ultralight in 7mmprc. I've reloaded since 1972 but wanted to find a decent factory round since it will eventually be my son's who won't reload. I tried available factory ammo and found Hornady did not shoot nowhere close to their advertised muzzle velocity 175gr.eldx precision hunter was 2699-2769 and best group 3/4"@100yds. 160cx shot worse. I finally nailed it with Federal premium with 2980fps with only 11fps dev. Group was 3/16" @100yds.I was using a APA Lil bastard tunable muzzle brake and Leupold MkIV 6.5x20x50 scope. With those "perfect" conditions I have no doubt it's capabilities @ 1000yds. I've also installed the APA Cone of Shame trigger is 1lb 4oz.
Allen Lone wolf
Well-Known Member
Wachsmann
Well-Known Member
Depending on how serious or how much you are willing to spend. This for me would be very tough to answer. I personally have never saved enough to buy a full custom build but I have enough rifles to pay for one. Saying that I like to tinker with hand loads a lot and kind obsess over what my ballistic performance/bullet performance can be. So I would start with a 300PRC and make sure it has a 1/8 twist. I think there are a couple manufacturers making them that way. I would load a Berger minimum weight of a 208 LRHT bullet. I would probably go straight to a 250grn Amax. Also no short barrels for me. Minimum 26 inch length. I want the most velocity I can get. Now this is only going to run about 2650fps but looking at the terminal ballistic of the 250 at 1000 with a starting velocity of 2650. My applied ballistic app puts it at 1798fps and 1796 ft/lb of energy. The next one I would do is probably a 28 Nos running a 195 Berger. After that I would look at the 300 Weatherby, the 300 win mag, the 7PRC, the 7 mag but with a new gun that has a 1/8 twist so you can load heavy. I would put the 300RUM last cause it just hard to find brass for and that is what I have. It works, and works great, but I don't shoot it very much at all. It's also has a 1/10 twist so the best I think I get out of it is a 230 Berger but at something other than mag length. I think it is about 3.7 or 3.8 inches. If you want bigger then look at the 338 lapua or a 338 RUM, or a 338 Norma mag or a 338-378 Weatherby. I would not choose a 338win. Limited case capacity. Also again I would run something like a 270 ELDX or something heavier. But these are my options if I was just going to buy an off the shelf gun.
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TC338,
My recommendation is a 300 Norma. Mine is a full custom, and is under 13lbs all in-without bipod (factory ammo available) My handload is Berger 230 OTM's @ 2900, single digit ES and SD. Will easily do what you want. 750+ is what I built this rifle for. Inside of this I shoot a smaller caliber.
If you want details of the build let me know.
With your requirement of 1k, you will be better off with 30 or 338 caliber, although as some have mentioned 1k is a touchy subject...
My 2 cents.
PH
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sandbar782
Well-Known Member
300 Win Mag. Hits hard, versatile hand loader, off-the-shelf ready.
TomHorn
Member
If you want a long range hunting rifle for elk, go 300 PRC with 1-8 twist. With a break they shoot lights out and the break takes off the recoil. I load some 200 Barnes LRX to 3070fps and shoots hole on hole. It's a 1-9. In 1-8 higher BC bullets are open to you. I also don't think you have the lead free restrictions.
dana bodnar
Well-Known Member
300 win-mag but you cant mix custom rounds with factory rounds. You said 1000-yards you need the FORCE to be with you . Normally you can find a local hand loader you can pay to work you up a nice load for your rifle.
GonzoK34
Well-Known Member
Having grown up in Southern California and fortunate to have had a Father who enjoyed fishing and hunting small game, birds and mainly deer for table fair. The majority of his friends were hunters also. Some had fought in the Korean War and that experience surviving in extreme environments taught us to be prepared when out in the wilderness and that you may only have one single opportunity to harvest an animal or survive an attack by bears and cougars. Which were common during the 50s and 60s hunting the Sierra Nevada Mountains. How does their experience relate to choosing a specific rifle caliber? Recently I observed my 78th birthday, I am also a 100% Disabled Marine Infantryman of the Vietnam War with a few tours. Lessons Learned hunting enhanced my training and survival in Vietnam. Caliber with the goal of shooting big game (Elk) out to 1,000 yards. Big Game Hunting is about enjoying the outdoor experience and being out with family and friends. TODAY there are far too many people with the belief that they are as capable as Military Trained Snipers with years of Advanced Training and have survived being hunted by Our Country's Enemies. There is a significant difference! Hunting for me started at 5 years old with my Dad. My first Buck was at 12 at 100 yds with my Dad showing and guiding me through the process of field dressing and getting that buck back to his car a mile away! A Cow Elk averages 350-500 lbs live weight. A Bull easy 500 to 700 lbs. They are tough animals that are difficult to locate and close the distance to guarantee a clean well placed shot. I have taken them with the 243, 6.5 Grendel, 7-08, 308, 30-06 and 300 Win Mag. Closes was 25yds (6.5 Grendel), longest shot 800 yds (300 Win Mag)! My preferred caliber has been the 7-08 w/Barnes TTSX 140 gr. Longest shot was 478 yards. Today I would seriously consider the 280 Ackley Improved as the BEST choice for any American big game animal. Powder capacity and slightly more energy and velocity than the 30-06. The 7 mm PRC looks like a favorable caliber considering the success of the recent 6, 6.5, 7 & 300 PRCs. Go with what makes you happy and Shoot Allot! My opinion as a life long hunter and at one time a Sargeant of Marines innCombat! SEMPER FIDELIS
Something that hasn't been mentioned regarding the above issue of factory vs hand loaded ammo, and tuning them to your rifle. Hand loaded center fire ammunition can be tuned to work in your rifle by various adjustments in the process. You do not have that ability with factory ammunition. Not all factory ammunition is bad or inconsistent either. So you can tune your rifle to the ammunition with a barrel tuner / brake combination such as the EC Tuner Brake.
The rim fire precision shooters do this all the time because they can not control the loading process, and more and more competition shooters are seeing the benefits of barrel tuners.
just thought I would share this with you.
The rim fire precision shooters do this all the time because they can not control the loading process, and more and more competition shooters are seeing the benefits of barrel tuners.
just thought I would share this with you.
Thank you for your service!
