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What would you change?

Personally stock and bedding come first. Ergos are extermely important a crap trigger is easier to pull in a well constructed stock or chassis due to hand placement.

That said, if a rifle has a pud trigger its replaced after I see how it feels after tuning it IN THE NEW STOCK.
 
Depends how "gritty" it feels. I might start with something like 400 and when I say "work the snot out of it" I don't mean twenty times, 200 times is a good start.

With a gas gun you can/should at least beable to lather up the bolt lugs on both the bolt and barrel pretty well and just go have fun, then clean well with something like Berryman's spray carburetor cleaner which is what I generally do for quick carbon removal or removal of excess/dirty oils/grease.

Use a progressively smaller grit each trip for a few hundred rounds and it will have to be smoother but it's almost impossible to overdo it. Almost I say because if there's a way to overdo something I'm usually the guy to find it.
 
And the stuff is fine going down the barrel?
The 800-1200gr has been.

Mind you I'm not filling the barrel, as I said I just run a loose patch dipped in it up and down a few times to get eve coverage.

I'm not sure what grits Tubb's uses on his breakin bullets but this is a similar princil, I just felt like it would give a more even lapping for the full length of the barrel over the bullets that are coated in similar abrasives.
 
I am already a good shooter and I am 62 and was reloading before getting a drivers license.if it doesn't shoot for me really soon I get a barrel most triggers are easy to make acceptable but that's what I do. I have several rifles that never needed anything.but I will buy a barrel in minute if I don't like what I see after a couple trips to the range.
 
The way I see it is that in my club where we shoot bullseye many people cannot afford a model 41, they have Browning Buckmark and Ruger mark 4s for the most part and after bringing their triggers down to the minimum they have become competitive where they were not before but I can also see how a good barrel for hunting might be more advantageous cause you can probably deal with a little worse of a trigger and could have a little more time to concentrate on trigger pull but sometimes you will need to shoot quickly so that's where I see a better trigger come into play but for best accuracy the barrel will probably make the biggest difference. Now if your fundamentals are good, a change not involving the gun in my opinion would be load development, if I didn't reload I would not see the accuracy out of my rifles that I am getting now, everyone of them shoots better with my reloads and that is my opinion as the OP.
 
With a heavy trigger pull, it's takes me awhile to release the trigger. I have for a very long time had triggers place into the rifles I use. I have taken out rifle out of the box and develop loads for them without doing anything to them. They are other people rifles. Most of the time I could achieve 1/2" groups at 100yds. Personally I float the barrels and bed the action, Change out the triggers of have them worked over. Getting all the right moves to fire that rifle is the bottom line. The heaver the trigger pull the harder for me to get the shot off. I don't put my finger into the trigger well until I am settle in. The other is in letting off the safety. A lot of the time I will dry fire my rifle several times, before actually fire that rifle. I have found using a muzzle brake helps in retaining scope sighting from the recoil of the rifle. Almost ready for a second shot if needed. In shooting an animal I very careful about not rushing the shot. I learned the hard way in missing in a rush shot. So I don't do that anymore. If I don't have it all getter, I don't make or take the shot.
 
With a heavy trigger pull, it's takes me awhile to release the trigger. I have for a very long time had triggers place into the rifles I use. I have taken out rifle out of the box and develop loads for them without doing anything to them. They are other people rifles. Most of the time I could achieve 1/2" groups at 100yds. Personally I float the barrels and bed the action, Change out the triggers of have them worked over. Getting all the right moves to fire that rifle is the bottom line. The heaver the trigger pull the harder for me to get the shot off. I don't put my finger into the trigger well until I am settle in. The other is in letting off the safety. A lot of the time I will dry fire my rifle several times, before actually fire that rifle. I have found using a muzzle brake helps in retaining scope sighting from the recoil of the rifle. Almost ready for a second shot if needed. In shooting an animal I very careful about not rushing the shot. I learned the hard way in missing in a rush shot. So I don't do that anymore. If I don't have it all getter, I don't make or take the shot.
I found with the heavier trigger it also takes me longer to get the shot off even if the break is the same or pretty clean, lighter triggers seem much easier for me to have no movement when firing the shot.
 
I found with the heavier trigger it also takes me longer to get the shot off even if the break is the same or pretty clean, lighter triggers seem much easier for me to have no movement when firing the shot.
That would be the norm for most of us. Mil Spec triggers are very heavy compared to what most of us like and that is to prevent ND's but we still manage to shoot very accurately with military rifles in spite of it. It just takes more work and practice with a heavier trigger.
 
I got a bunch of guns and I changed or had triggers done on many, I do not regret making any of those triggers better, they are all keepers.
 
1. If you don't already have a quality scope I would have to say that. There is an old saying that you need to spend $1 per yard. So if you want to shoot 500y you need a $500 scope. However to adjust for brandons inflation I'd go with $1.50-$1.75 per yard. example 300y needs a $450-$525 scope now. Shooting 500y needs a $750-$875 scope etc.

If you already have a good scope the Number 1# thing I'd do is bed the action and float the barrel. This i the single greatest thing you can do for any rifle as far as repeatability. You can learn to squeeze a 9lb trigger into 1moa but you can't learn to compensate for flyers that go everywhere because the stock is interfering with the rifles accuracy instead of supporting it. Doing this will give the rifle it's best shot at accuracy in it's current stock, current barrel, current trigger. Of course if your problem is you cant see what your shooting at clear enough refer yourself to a better scope.

Most factory rifles are accurate. However, many accurate rifles come in ****** stocks that hinder accuracy and don't support it.

Putting a new high speed stock or chassis does the same thing. If I was buying a new savage or Tikka factory I wouldn't even think about the barrel or the trigger. Many savage rifles and most Tikka can shoot better than me and I can shoot into 3/8moa on my good days.
That being said I've seen lots of videos of people pulling a savage out and shooting 1.5"-1.75" out the box. I'd wager .5"-1" of that is the stock.
 
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For me , the one thing I would change is my rifle , from a stock 1940s model 70 pre 64 , 300 weatherby mag , to a custom 300 weatherby mag,made by Randy Selby in Wyoming.
Comes with nice trigger,nice scope, nice stock ,nicely bedded,
Nice muzzle break ,nice barrel ,nice custom load / and data and nicely sighted in.
 
For me , the one thing I would change is my rifle , from a stock 1940s model 70 pre 64 , 300 weatherby mag , to a custom 300 weatherby mag,made by Randy Selby in Wyoming.
Comes with nice trigger,nice scope, nice stock ,nicely bedded,
Nice muzzle break ,nice barrel ,nice custom load / and data and nicely sighted in.
That's what I was thinking just replace it all and then have (The Answer) engraved on the action
 
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