What is your baseline zero a dial adjustable scope?
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Sighting in at 100 yards. It doesn't matter if it's 110 degrees, 80% humidity, 9,000' elevation, snowing, or what ever……it's gonna hit its original zero mark no matter what the conditions. Not so at 300, 400 or 500 unless you apply the differences in atmospheric conditions from site in to your current state.
lowdowndirtybugger
Well-Known Member
The reasons it is advisable to zero a scope for a high powered rifle at 100 are simple
1 and the biggest reason is that 100 yards is the point of minimum ordinance. Meaning that it is the point where minimum point where the line of site and the top of the arch of the bullet converge
2 100 yards is close enough that there is little impact from environmentals.
3 any other range can be dialed from there for preferences
1 and the biggest reason is that 100 yards is the point of minimum ordinance. Meaning that it is the point where minimum point where the line of site and the top of the arch of the bullet converge
2 100 yards is close enough that there is little impact from environmentals.
3 any other range can be dialed from there for preferences
DoneNOut
Well-Known Member
It depends if you are a hunter of animals, or a shooter of animals.
Hunters - can engage the animal from very close to far. So the "Point Blank Range" method is more utilized. Pretty much that's the extent of a hunters ability to grasp ballistics. Dial knobs and numbers would create confusion.
Shooters - have all day to dial their dope because they are so far away from the animal. They can do the 100 zero and dial their scopes, with the gun sitting on their carbon fiber tripods, and know the exact distance and wind via use of their gadgets. They even have time to calculate the spin drift and rotation of the earth.
So that's how it goes...
Hunters - can engage the animal from very close to far. So the "Point Blank Range" method is more utilized. Pretty much that's the extent of a hunters ability to grasp ballistics. Dial knobs and numbers would create confusion.
Shooters - have all day to dial their dope because they are so far away from the animal. They can do the 100 zero and dial their scopes, with the gun sitting on their carbon fiber tripods, and know the exact distance and wind via use of their gadgets. They even have time to calculate the spin drift and rotation of the earth.
So that's how it goes...
Litrfoot
Well-Known Member
100 yard zero. Less shooter induced errors. Those errors multiply at distance. Why build an error into your zero?
Now if I was shooting a duplex reticle, and as others have mentioned, game 300 yards and in, then I would zero at 200.
All my scopes have target turrets and hold over reticles, ie trees. If I had to take a shot quickly, I would hold.
Now if I was shooting a duplex reticle, and as others have mentioned, game 300 yards and in, then I would zero at 200.
All my scopes have target turrets and hold over reticles, ie trees. If I had to take a shot quickly, I would hold.
TAWS
Well-Known Member
I use Kenton Ind. knobs on my Vortex scopes and my zero is 200 yds. That's the way the elevation turret is marked. That is the first mark you see. No counting click's just dial it and shoot. If the target is 50 or 100 yds. you're only talking about 1 or 1.5 inches difference. It keeps things simple.
teejj
Well-Known Member
It depends on purpose somewhat, the gun that rides in my truck for the stray coyote is a 200 yd zero because I may have to make a quick 250yd shot etc. My hunting gun that may be in a blind with me on a sendero or clear cut is 100 yard zero, if I need to shoot far I'll take the time to dial or put though into the hold on a game animal.
ICMDEER
Well-Known Member
I'm more of a hunter than a long range shooter. I still shoot some distance, but hunting is my deal. I set my zero at about 220-230 yards on my rifles. That gives me the best alternative for general hunting. The reason I do this is because of the zero stop on the scope. I'd assume most western hunters like to have their rifle set so they can shoot to 300 yards or there about without fooling with their scope.
I set my zero that way so I can leave my zero stop for general western hunting. Simple stuff. I'll adjust if needed for a long shot where time is available. If a 300 yards shot is there and I just quickly lay down and shoot, I'm confident I can still hit the critter.
I shot this bull last fall in early December. He was laying in a place where I just could not get a range on him. It was public land and he was through a barbed wire fence and laying on a point of a ridge, with another ridge right behind him. I was getting either 150 or 430 yards and I knew neither was right. After about 10 seconds of fooling around with the range finder, and all five bulls getting up and starting to mill around, I said, heck, just shoot him. I shot him once and he went down, struggled a bit and tried to get up. Shot him again, because I shoot elk till they are done. I never did get a range, but both shots were fatal and within about 2 inches of each other. Just FYI, I usually use a Hatch bipod while hunting. That's a great bipod.
If I would have had to start thinking about adjusting turrets, I may have hesitated and missed out. The bulls were on the edge of running away. The old "keep it simple stupid" adage works for me. By the way, that was with a 300 Win Mag and a 200 grain Hornady ELDX. Comes out at 2960 fps.
I guide a lot of hunters and most seem to want to mess around with their turrets all the time. I have seen a bunch of shots missed or missed out on because of turrets. People either set them at 650 yards and forget to reset to zero or have them set for 100 yards and don't have time to reset for a 300 yards shot on an antelope. I have a fair number of people who feel the need to adjust turrets for a 225 yard shot. I'm zero at 225. It's easy for me to quickly turn that zero stop and know I'm good to 300 yards. And more if I just hold on top of the critter's back. Most people are not prepared to shoot in a fairly quick fashion, which results on lots of missed opportunities. Animals don't always give you all the time you want to prepare and look at your phone or a dope sheet. Sure sometimes, time is not an issue, but often, you need to be quick.
Anyway, long answer, but that's why I set mine for about 220. Everyone is different and has different needs. Do what is best for you and your situation.
I set my zero that way so I can leave my zero stop for general western hunting. Simple stuff. I'll adjust if needed for a long shot where time is available. If a 300 yards shot is there and I just quickly lay down and shoot, I'm confident I can still hit the critter.
I shot this bull last fall in early December. He was laying in a place where I just could not get a range on him. It was public land and he was through a barbed wire fence and laying on a point of a ridge, with another ridge right behind him. I was getting either 150 or 430 yards and I knew neither was right. After about 10 seconds of fooling around with the range finder, and all five bulls getting up and starting to mill around, I said, heck, just shoot him. I shot him once and he went down, struggled a bit and tried to get up. Shot him again, because I shoot elk till they are done. I never did get a range, but both shots were fatal and within about 2 inches of each other. Just FYI, I usually use a Hatch bipod while hunting. That's a great bipod.
If I would have had to start thinking about adjusting turrets, I may have hesitated and missed out. The bulls were on the edge of running away. The old "keep it simple stupid" adage works for me. By the way, that was with a 300 Win Mag and a 200 grain Hornady ELDX. Comes out at 2960 fps.
I guide a lot of hunters and most seem to want to mess around with their turrets all the time. I have seen a bunch of shots missed or missed out on because of turrets. People either set them at 650 yards and forget to reset to zero or have them set for 100 yards and don't have time to reset for a 300 yards shot on an antelope. I have a fair number of people who feel the need to adjust turrets for a 225 yard shot. I'm zero at 225. It's easy for me to quickly turn that zero stop and know I'm good to 300 yards. And more if I just hold on top of the critter's back. Most people are not prepared to shoot in a fairly quick fashion, which results on lots of missed opportunities. Animals don't always give you all the time you want to prepare and look at your phone or a dope sheet. Sure sometimes, time is not an issue, but often, you need to be quick.
Anyway, long answer, but that's why I set mine for about 220. Everyone is different and has different needs. Do what is best for you and your situation.
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memtb
Well-Known Member
Absolutely! This has been my contention for many years!
Obviously this is based upon a cartridge of fairly high mv's, and using bullets of decent BC's. As an example…..400+ grain bullet from a 45-70 would not meet that criteria!
Another thing that should be considered……the hunting conditions that each hunter experiences are not the same. Those hunting in a very low hunting pressure area may have plenty of time to make ranging verifications, get that good rest into position, and then take the shot! Other hunters, may not have the pleasure of hunting game that is not being pressured by multitudes of other hunters! All situations are not the same! memtb
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Kentuckywindage
Well-Known Member
100 for most but I have a .243 I set Mpbr. Reasoning is varmint hunting. I have around 400 before I adjust. Using reticle to 500.
With a 100 gr I have taken Whitetail at 425 yrd. I like the Mpbr because of the simplicity in a shot needing to be placed quickly. I range my surroundings to know the limit before I have to use reticle. Most often shots are within the MPBR.
As I stated I set everything else at 100, (larger calibers) and dail or use reticle.
With a 100 gr I have taken Whitetail at 425 yrd. I like the Mpbr because of the simplicity in a shot needing to be placed quickly. I range my surroundings to know the limit before I have to use reticle. Most often shots are within the MPBR.
As I stated I set everything else at 100, (larger calibers) and dail or use reticle.
100
I prefer to reduce every variable possible, and I zero all centerfire scopes to 100 yards. Everything is the same.
I dial when necessary, mil based dope to 300 on my cartridges is extremely easy to remember. I don't like doing load development and building a nice rifle that shoots <1" 10 shot groups and then purposely planning to miss by 5 inches within 300 yards.
I've yet to experience a situation where this has been a negative for me, maybe one day I will. I've never had to take a shot at 300 yards that I didn't have time to settle my thoughts, dial and execute. Those have all been within 200. I can imagine a scenario where I pre dial based on the estimated distance of the next ridge as I'm crossing a crest, but in the situation I actually did that I did not pre dial and I had no issue ranging my target, dialing my turret and executing. Then again I didn't have an issue putting in ear pro either and that seems to be extremely hard for some hunters to take the time to do
I prefer to reduce every variable possible, and I zero all centerfire scopes to 100 yards. Everything is the same.
I dial when necessary, mil based dope to 300 on my cartridges is extremely easy to remember. I don't like doing load development and building a nice rifle that shoots <1" 10 shot groups and then purposely planning to miss by 5 inches within 300 yards.
I've yet to experience a situation where this has been a negative for me, maybe one day I will. I've never had to take a shot at 300 yards that I didn't have time to settle my thoughts, dial and execute. Those have all been within 200. I can imagine a scenario where I pre dial based on the estimated distance of the next ridge as I'm crossing a crest, but in the situation I actually did that I did not pre dial and I had no issue ranging my target, dialing my turret and executing. Then again I didn't have an issue putting in ear pro either and that seems to be extremely hard for some hunters to take the time to do
I usually sight in at 100 like this. I don't use scopes that dial easily. No need and little opportunity to shoot beyond 400 where I hunt. I find it difficult to find game farther than about 350. So I usually look where I can shoot and this works for me.
ThorThor
Well-Known Member
On my main hunting rifle, 7 ultra 195 Berger at 3100. I zero at 300. 0-350 is easy and fast, 400 yards and more i dial. 7 years and lots of animals with this combo, it works for me. Other guns for targets and short range I use 100.
100 yards!
I used to zero at 200 ish depending on the cartridge and expected shot distance. This was done to take advantage of "Maximum point-blank range" and it still works well inside a given distance. Now days all my go-to rifles have scopes with dialing turrets and I like to shoot (practice) long. It just makes sense to keep it simple and consistent with a 100 yard zero.
I used to zero at 200 ish depending on the cartridge and expected shot distance. This was done to take advantage of "Maximum point-blank range" and it still works well inside a given distance. Now days all my go-to rifles have scopes with dialing turrets and I like to shoot (practice) long. It just makes sense to keep it simple and consistent with a 100 yard zero.
