What is the problem??? (reloading Q)

[ATH]

Since you're relatively new at this let me suggest the simplistic solution...are you sure you even need to bump the shoulder at all? I have one rifle I need to bump every 2-3 loadings, and another that I'm on the 7th reload and have not had to do more than neck size yet.

The rule I follow with bolt guns is not to bump the shoulder unless you have to -- be kind to your brass. My full-length dies are rarely used. Get a neck sizing die and it will be simpler for you.

If you have to bump, start small and test the brass in the gun. If you go all the way back to SAAMI this will really be over-working the brass for a lot of guns. If the shells are being reloaded for a specific chamber there is no reason to do this.

 

[BlackSS]

Well, I have a neck sizing die as well.
All the brass has been FL sized already, only bumped the shoulder back .002".
I'll see what it looks like after the next go round. I am going to have a bunch of different loads so I would expect after the next outing that the shoulders will not be consistent.

I appreciate all the help and pointers guys, reloading for a LR rifle is pretty daunting for someone who has never done any reloading. I'm glad I'm getting to learn the right way right from the beginning.
I probably should have started with 38 special or something more difficult to screw up, but oh well.

 

[bigngreen]

I reloaded of and on for years but really didn't care for it and just did it out of neccesity, but then I started lurking around this site and then started asking question and I started on my 270 WSM long range hunter and started to try to maximize both power and accuracy for long range. Loading with this goal I found reloading to be one of my most addictive and interesting things to do with a very nice pay of when it all comes together

 

[BlackSS]

I'm having a real hard time with seeing rifling marks on the bullet and can't figure out where the bullet should be set.
Any idea what the overall length should be with a 140 accubond just to get me in the ballpark? It is a long bullet.
Maybe I should try a dry erase marker? I'll have to try to remember to pick one up.

 

[Broz]

I'm having a real hard time with seeing rifling marks on the bullet
Maybe I should try a dry erase marker? I'll have to try to remember to pick one up.

0000 fine steel wool will polish the bullet up very nice and quick. It is easy to touch up between tests too. If you are getting in far enough to contact the lands they will leave visable marks on the polished bullet. This is what I did for years before I bought the stoney point tools.

Jeff

 

[BlackSS]

well, i have the bullet comparator to measure from the o-give but i really don't know how that helps. I thought the idea was to fit the round to the chamber??

 

[Broz]

well, i have the bullet comparator to measure from the o-give but i really don't know how that helps. I thought the idea was to fit the round to the chamber??

Yes, it is. Now you need this tool.

Hornady Lock-N-Load Overall Length Gage Bolt Action - MidwayUSA


Or, you can use the steel wool like I said above and keep setting them deeper in the case till a few of the land marks disappear. This will tell you you are just off the lands. Measure that one with your compensator and write it down. That is the zero O-give length of your rifle. Then seat bullets from there back till you fnd a sweet spot.

Jeff

 

[bigngreen]

well, i have the bullet comparator to measure from the o-give but i really don't know how that helps. I thought the idea was to fit the round to the chamber??

The easiest way to see why the comparator is needed is to pull out a few bullets and measure them with out the comparator, you'll find that you get a fairly good range. Then measure the same bunch with the comparator you will see that your range is much narrower with the reason being that the tip of the bullets can of or crunched but the o-give should be a stable place to measure from. This keeps you from chasing your seating depth because of bullet tips.

In sizing your trying to fit the case to the chamber but during seating your trying to fit the bullet to the throat and find the sweet spot.

Your looking for the shiny spots where your comparator and bullet meet. I've had good luck just doing it this way and when I get the bullet just touching the lands I glue it and write the info on the case so I can reference it later with ease when my notes go missing, I also do this when I find the sweet seating depth so I have a case that is the for the lands and a case that is for setting seating depth.