What are the easiest mistakes you learned the most from when reloading?

[2nd amend]

I started reloading in the early 80's and have upgraded some of my equipment over the years. If you are going to be a long time reloader buy a digital powder dispenser, a g]
quality single stage press some come with at primer seater, metal caliper, an electric case prep center, keep good records, and enjoy.
A mistake I made early was not making sure every case had powder. A simple and fool proof way to check is, while the cases are still in loading block, use a flashlight and glance into every case. Some of the items I suggested to get are expensive, but if you are committed you will eventually have at lest some of them.

 

[Bigaldepr]

Finally a subject I am an expert in.
1) Loading powder in cases without primers. Always process a batch of cases from start to finish before starting work on another batch. Always work a batch in the same order and never stop in the middle of a step.
2) No powder. Visually inspect each case and check weigh the filled cases.
3) Loading a damaged case. Inspect and measure before and after each step. Inspect and measure cases before and after de-capping/cleaning, primer pocket before and after priming, inspect and weigh filled cases, measure the COAL of the first five bullets, then random samples.
4) Getting powder all over the work area. Powder really bounces so use containers with high sides and limit the distance it drops. Practice with the goal of not spilling a single grain.
5) Forgetting what you loaded. I print a label for each batch with the bullet, powder, COAL and load. I use an Excel spreadsheet for the label that is an array that matches the ammo box were I enter the amount of powder in each position. One batch one label taped to the box.
5) Forgetting what target goes with what load. Before shooting write the load data on the target. Preferably large enough to read through your scope.
6) Forgetting what worked best. Keep organized notes on the performance of your loads.
7) Keep your work area clean, comfortable, uncluttered, and well lighted. Put away what you are not using before going to the next step.

 

[DDB TX]

Great info, I am bookmarking this one. I would add a couple.

1. If you are going on a hunt out of town and plan to use your reloads, take a box of factory bullets. Just last week was on a South Texas elk/deer/axis/pig hunt and one fellow had a situation where his bolt would not close on his reloads; fortunately he had brought a box of factory ammo and it worked fine.

2. Although I am very careful, and I thought I had checked for powder in each case, once I found a no-powder round by idly weighing a few finished rounds just for the heck of it. I checked the rest of the 100 and found another. (I suspect it was a distraction / interruption.) I've since added the final step of "weigh each round to ensure it has powder" to my printed reloading procedure checklist.

3. Make sure your scale is not in the path of a fan or an AC or heater vent. The wind from a fan or AC can eddy and cause a grain or 3 of variance in displayed weight.

 

[epags]

This is my greatest fear with reloading.

Weigh every powder charge. Some powders will bridge when you are throwing them which results in a low charge followed by possibly a very large charge in the next one.

 

[Orange Dust]

Another tip. When you mount your press, sandwich a low sided container between it and the bench, such as a dish drain board. Keeps spilled stuff at bay so it is easy to clean up.

 

[Bigaldepr]

I'm guessing you suggest doing this BEFORE to keep the dies cleaner? My preference is the opposite. Either decap by hand (Frankford Arsenal) or universal decapping die (depending on how many I'm doing at a time) and then clean the brass. Primer pockets get cleaned and my brass just seems to be cleaner overall this way. As with most things in this game however, there are several ways to skin the cat...

Me too, I lube the inside of the neck otherwise the sizer gets stuck in the case. Had to buy another die set. The problem is the lube causes the power to stick to the neck, especially ball powder. Lube, de-cap, then clean to remove the lube works best for me.

 

[Silly_Ghillie]

I am fortunate enough never to have made a squib load, or miss a primer. I think this comes from my start of hand loading late, having learned from the mistakes of my peers via stories I've heard.

3. Make sure your scale is not in the path of a fan or an AC or heater vent. The wind from a fan or AC can eddy and cause a grain or 3 of variance in displayed weight.

That's a good one.

when I very first started, I switched powders out of my powder hopper and unintentionally forgot to turn the cam to completely empty it. I inadvertently put about 5 ish grains of Varget with my H1000 and loaded it into a .300 WM. because both powders are extruded and similar looking, I didn't catch it. I definitely knew something had happened when I fired that sucker (which could have potentially been much worse) I got about a 2.5 foot fireball and about 125% the recoil- primer blew out, case neck was scorched, it was bad. I quadruple check my powder hopper now and completely disassemble it before I put another powder in, and then I use masking tape over the lid with the powder type inside.

 

[Old Rooster]

I like the posts where they say to write EVERYTHING down,even the range reports.
I give every load a lot number.I can go all the way back to 1970 and see loads and reports on what was accurate in that particular rifle,handgun and even shotgun.
Distance to lands and grooves will change with different bullets and can effect accuracy big time.Just load a dummy round with a bullet inserted a little way(No primer)and close the round with the bolt and remove round measure it and you have a distance you need to write down for that particular bullet.I start with 3 rounds loaded .015 off lands and grooves and reduce distance .002 each load.
Notes will save you a lot of time.
Enjoy,its a great journey.
old rooster

 

[DDB TX]

Just remembered this one too. I bought a Tikka T3 Lite (6.5 lbs) in 300 wsm for my first elk hunt, and wanted to work up the most accurate load I could for it. Following the advice of many online posters, I did not crimp the bullets. One hot day I was getting about 3050 fps out of that shoulder buster, testing RL17 and 180 grain Partitions and Partition Protected Points. But then one shot went 3300 fps! And really smacked me. I could not figure out what had happened until I noticed the Partitions' lead tips were flattened, the ones that had been in the magazine when I shot. I suspect that the recoil in that light magnum rifle had pushed a bullet into the case a good bit (because I didnt crimp). Bought a Lee Factory Crimp die and use it every time now. Thank goodness that Tikka is a tough gun! Lesson: Crimp your magnums.

 

[Alibiiv]

I started reloading in the early 80's and have upgraded some of my equipment over the years. If you are going to be a long time reloader buy a digital powder dispenser, a g]
quality single stage press some come with at primer seater, metal caliper, an electric case prep center, keep good records, and enjoy.
A mistake I made early was not making sure every case had powder. A simple and fool proof way to check is, while the cases are still in loading block, use a flashlight and glance into every case. Some of the items I suggested to get are expensive, but if you are committed you will eventually have at lest some of them.

And.......for an additional check I always Indivually weigh all completely loaded cartridges. If there's any doubt this is just a reassurance that a powder measure, or primer wasn't overlooked.

 

[SilverbulletMAG]

And.......for an additional check I always Indivually weigh all completely loaded cartridges. If there's any doubt this is just a reassurance that a powder measure, or primer wasn't overlooked.

Another little trick I picked up over the years is to give your loaded rounds a quick shake as your loading your rifle. Tells you quickly if you have powder in there in all instances outside of super compressed loads.

 

[goodkid1]

No real revelations here and seems obvious but....don't forget to add primers before filling with powder.lol That one has bit me a couple times.
If you can swing it, buy better equipment at the start vs. dipping your toe in the water with cheap gear and then inevitably getting better quality stuff down the road and spending much more than you otherwise would have.
Something I wish I would have told myself when starting out - pick a bullet you want to shoot and stick with that one bullet and build loads around that vs. getting several boxes of different bullets, weights, powders, primers and then drive yourself crazy trying to work up a million different loads. Pick one or two and limit the variables.

+1 on all of "silverbullet'" advice above. All I want to add is for you to put a big "Post-iT note on your bench that reads.....LUBE!

 

[Tumbleweed]

A valuable thing I learned was to NOT assume my seating die was seating all bullets equally. I did that for years or would just check COAL to tip. Bullet variances, differing neck tension and die inconsistencies will throw this all out the window. When I started using an ogive measurement tool it all became obvious. Every bullet I seat is checked with the tool and all are set to +/- .0005".

 

[Ol' Red]

View attachment 117197 New to the sport and reloading. Currently working on building up my reloading bench with all the goodies needed to work. What are some do's and dont's y'all have learned over the years that you like to pass on? Currently reloading for my Bergara B14 HMR chambered in 6.5CM.

I keep the reloading area clear of anything not needed. Get as set system, and follow it every time. After sizing, I put brass upside down in the tray. That way you see the empty primer pocket. Prime brass and turn them over for powder. After adding the powder, look in the top of each round to make sure powder is at the same level and none are empty. Then seat bullets. This has worked for me for over 30 years. You will adapt your own pattern, just follow it at all times. Most of all be safe and enjoy. Remember, it's not work if you're having fun.