Wanting a new setup .300WM or like setup for Elk

[Backcountry sports]

Dont buy a Montana rifle there out of buisness

Off the shelf cooper model 92 7mm 2 elk with that model model 52 9 elk 7mm all one shot drt no tracking light weight 168 berger bullets lower recoil than 300 win mag get a 7mm you wont go wrong

 

[Coyote_Hunter]

Coyote Hunter has some great advice.

I have only shot 9 elk; 5 6x6s or bigger, one 5x5, 2 rags, and a spike. Only one elk was beyond 200 yards. All were shot with a .338 WM.

The other thing is if you don't have a place to practice to 1000, don't worry about shooting an elk at 1000. I would also say, having lived in the Midwest, a 1000 yard cut/road through thick forest isn't the same as shooting in wide open spaces that are anything but flat. It is hard to believe the change in impact going from 1000 feet to 9,000 feet at 1000 yards has on a bullet until you have practiced doing it.

Good point on change of impact with change of altitude. There are multiple good ballistic calculators available for smart phones. I HIGHLY recommend getting one and learning to use it. My ranges (I belong to three) vary from about 5500 feet to 6000 feet. The difference in trajectory at 7500 feet is noticeable and very much so at 9000 feet..

 

[LRNut]

Good point on change of impact with change of altitude. There are multiple good ballistic calculators available for smart phones. I HIGHLY recommend getting one and learning to use it. My ranges (I belong to three) vary from about 5500 feet to 6000 feet. The difference in trajectory at 7500 feet is noticeable and very much so at 9000 feet..

I have one on my phone, but I have to say the SIG Kilo2400ABS is fantastic when it comes to taking these factors into account. It is the only LR I know of that accounts for spin drift and aerodynamic jump. Its LR is superior to anything else in its price point (goes to 2000 yds without a problem, but I only practice to 1300). The only things I don't like about it are:
1. It is half black, so it tends to show a hotter ambient air temp than actual if left in the sun
2. Only stores four trajectory profiles and doesn't indicate in the HUD which is selected

I used to get mysterious elevation changes at 1200 and 1300 yards; sometimes even at 800, but with the SIG I am much more consistent - it is unusual to have an elevation strike more than 1/2 MOA at 1200 yards. Now, if I was only that good with the wind...

 

[bigngreen]

New to the site, I thought I would reach out for some advice. I am about to go on my first Elk Hunt with a rifle, I have been several years with a bow but decided to book a hunt for second rifle in Colorado and looking to get a rifle ready for the October hunt. I was thinking a .300 WM and wanted to see what thoughts were on that or if I should consider something else. Second question would be for your opinion on best out of the box rifle these days for long range hunting. I was seriously considering the Christensen Mesa Long Range, Weathrby Mark V Accuamark, or a Bergara Premier. Or maybe there is a better option, I would like to be $2500 or less for the gun not including optics. I'm not going to shoot competitively but would like to have a good 1000 yard setup. Fairly experienced shooter, however new to the semi custom/custom market for a rifle and most of my rifle hunts in Missouri cap at 300 on whitetail so this is somewhat of a different need, we shoot out further but mostly just for fun.

Thanks in advance

A 300 Win is a solid round to start with, decent barrel life and you can shoot it enough to learn it before it shoots out, lots of variety in components. Finding a rifle is important, I always recommend getting behind the ones you think you'd like, if it does not fit and feel comfortable you'll struggle to shoot it and fight it when you shouldn't be. I would say to brake it at least for your shooting for practice or you'll waste to many components learning to handle the recoil and make precision shots and you need to work on the shooting and ballistics part more. I recommend shooting a lot double the range you intend to hunt at and don't practice in the good weather, pick windy days and crappy days so your learning not just ringing steal and feeling like a rock star on great days.
Practice with ALL you gear your hunting with HOW you intend to hunt, meaning range everything you shoot with your range finder, use your wind meter and ballistics solution every time don't short cut it other wise you'll loose shot opportunities and you'll be second guessing when you should be shooting.
Reloading is excellent but the 300 Win does offer a lot of options, my favorite is the 300 win and 215 Berger which you can get loaded from Berger ammunition, freaking EPIC for rolling elk and precision hunting!!!

 

[LRNut]

"Practice with ALL you gear your hunting with HOW you intend to hunt, meaning range everything you shoot with your range finder, use your wind meter and ballistics solution every time don't short cut it other wise you'll loose shot opportunities and you'll be second guessing when you should be shooting."

I agree - except for wind meters. Wind meters are almost a waste of money - learn to read the mirage first and foremost. I use the side parallax of my scope to "see" mirage then dial it into focus when I see the prevailing wind condition. Wind is almost always stronger than a hand held shows - for one thing, your bullet is traveling quite a bit higher than you can hold it. Also, when hunting, you are not going to be sitting on top of a hill or ridge but rather below it, thus shielding the wind significantly at times.

When you practice, shoot at reactive targets like steel or rocks (I paint them black) so you can see the impact of wind. Far better to take 10 shots on ten different days than shoot 10 times in one sitting (who can't adjust after that first bad wind call?).

I use a wind meter, but honestly, if I can't see mirage my miss rate goes way up at 800 and beyond.

 

[bigngreen]

"Practice with ALL you gear your hunting with HOW you intend to hunt, meaning range everything you shoot with your range finder, use your wind meter and ballistics solution every time don't short cut it other wise you'll loose shot opportunities and you'll be second guessing when you should be shooting."

I agree - except for wind meters. Wind meters are almost a waste of money - learn to read the mirage first and foremost. I use the side parallax of my scope to "see" mirage then dial it into focus when I see the prevailing wind condition. Wind is almost always stronger than a hand held shows - for one thing, your bullet is traveling quite a bit higher than you can hold it. Also, when hunting, you are not going to be sitting on top of a hill or ridge but rather below it, thus shielding the wind significantly at times.

When you practice, shoot at reactive targets like steel or rocks (I paint them black) so you can see the impact of wind. Far better to take 10 shots on ten different days than shoot 10 times in one sitting (who can't adjust after that first bad wind call?).

I use a wind meter, but honestly, if I can't see mirage my miss rate goes way up at 800 and beyond.

I've never gotten a shot at an elk with enough mirage to pick up, everything is based on wind meter and shooting experience, my hit percentage is very, very high with or without mirage, if you learn how to use the tools we have and apply some terrain reading you greatly increase your shot opportunities!!

 

[LRNut]

If you focus your spotter between you and the elk, you will see mirage unless it is cloudy and there is no snow on the ground. If you don't, you will generally not see it in the West, where humidity levels are very low. XTC and F class shooters use mirage by putting their spotter in a position where they can check it with their left eye and shoot when the condition is right.

 

[Straightshot069]

Ridgeline in 30 Nosler. Ballistic wise about the same as the 300 WM. Decent market support already.
I bought one and absolutely love this thing. Light, extremely accurate.

 

[bigngreen]

If you focus your spotter between you and the elk, you will see mirage unless it is cloudy and there is no snow on the ground. If you don't, you will generally not see it in the West, where humidity levels are very low. XTC and F class shooters use mirage by putting their spotter in a position where they can check it with their left eye and shoot when the condition is right.

I know how to read and find mirage, in below freezing temps before the sun is up or well after the sun is down you'll fight to detect mirage and even then it'll be very hard to get a good read, middle of the day no problem many times, in fact it's so heavy you'll have a hard time seeing though it well enough to shoot but at the typical times we are rolling elk there's nothing to read. I'll watch it all day long in a BR or BPCR match and use it there but it's next to useless for hunting.

 

[LRNut]

I know how to read and find mirage, in below freezing temps before the sun is up or well after the sun is down you'll fight to detect mirage and even then it'll be very hard to get a good read, middle of the day no problem many times, in fact it's so heavy you'll have a hard time seeing though it well enough to shoot but at the typical times we are rolling elk there's nothing to read. I'll watch it all day long in a BR or BPCR match and use it there but it's next to useless for hunting.

I do agree if the sun is not poking over the horizon you are screwed when it comes to mirage. But if you can see mirage, it is far better than a wind meter.

 

[bigngreen]

I do agree if the sun is not poking over the horizon you are screwed when it comes to mirage. But if you can see mirage, it is far better than a wind meter.

In different terrain you get different elements, for cold bore elk hunting in MT learning how your prevailing wind works and how it moves over the terrain then learning how to read the micro winds in each drainage will give you far more than looking across your path and read mirage. On the shooting range and nice little breeze with mirage is most helpful.

 

[greenejc]

New to the site, I thought I would reach out for some advice. I am about to go on my first Elk Hunt with a rifle, I have been several years with a bow but decided to book a hunt for second rifle in Colorado and looking to get a rifle ready for the October hunt. I was thinking a .300 WM and wanted to see what thoughts were on that or if I should consider something else. Second question would be for your opinion on best out of the box rifle these days for long range hunting. I was seriously considering the Christensen Mesa Long Range, Weathrby Mark V Accuamark, or a Bergara Premier. Or maybe there is a better option, I would like to be $2500 or less for the gun not including optics. I'm not going to shoot competitively but would like to have a good 1000 yard setup. Fairly experienced shooter, however new to the semi custom/custom market for a rifle and most of my rifle hunts in Missouri cap at 300 on whitetail so this is somewhat of a different need, we shoot out further but mostly just for fun.

Thanks in advance

I'm sure you've gotten lots of advice by now, including some high dollar advice on rifles and calibers. I would give you some advice in both rifle and caliber that many here wouldn't. The 300 Win Mag is just fine for what you want. Rifles don't have to be really expensive to do what you want. Remington makes a Long Range that will do the job with minimum tweaking (see the gunwerks videos on You tube) all of which you can do. Ruger also makes several versions of the Hawkeye that will do the job. For scopes I would say to look on the shepherdscopes.com website and take a serious look at their DRS and BRS series. I believe that they are the best ballistic compensating scopes on the market, and I have used them extensively for the last 35 years for hunting and practice out to 800 and 900 yards (when the distance has been available) with first round hits. The reticle is matched to your rifle and easy to use. For rings I use Millet windage adjustable rings, which are very solid. I currently shoot standard weight M700 300 WM rifles at 600 and 700 yards regularly and hit inside 5 to 6 inches, with 3 to 10 power variable Shepherd scopes, tighter groups with the 6 to 18 variable. Its up to you what you get. I also hand load and have found Remington brass in this caliber to be most consistent in group size, and Nosler Ballastic Tips or Sierra Gamekings to be capable of .6 to .7 moa using IMR 4350 powder. Your experience might be different, but I would start with either a Ruger or a Remington 700.

 

[LRNut]

In different terrain you get different elements, for cold bore elk hunting in MT learning how your prevailing wind works and how it moves over the terrain then learning how to read the micro winds in each drainage will give you far more than looking across your path and read mirage. On the shooting range and nice little breeze with mirage is most helpful.

Actually, mirage gives you a composite picture of the wind. I am not sure how you are reading micro winds across drainages better than mirage. Vegetation? Pretty non-existent, at least stuff with leaves, in Arizona, but when I see mesquite branches moving, I know it is a pretty strong wind but tough to say exactly how much. But if the mirage is not washed out, I can generally translate it to wind speed within a mile or two. And nothing is better when it comes to sensing the direction, especially those conditions where the wind is blowing behind from 5 to 7. The past Tuesday I shot at 800 yards. Held left .75 MOA for wind. Shot once, then turned to shoot at my 1200 yard rock. Turned my parallax down to see mirage and was stunned to see the mirage going R/L even though at my position it was L/R from about 7 o'clock. I guess whatever works for you is great, but why you would discourage someone from learning to read mirage is a bit mystifying.

I agree ranges are not the best place to practice, but not because the mirage is easier to read: the wind flags are hard to ignore - something you don't have in the field.

 

[FEENIX]

New to the site, I thought I would reach out for some advice. I am about to go on my first Elk Hunt with a rifle, I have been several years with a bow but decided to book a hunt for second rifle in Colorado and looking to get a rifle ready for the October hunt. I was thinking a .300 WM and wanted to see what thoughts were on that or if I should consider something else. Second question would be for your opinion on best out of the box rifle these days for long range hunting. I was seriously considering the Christensen Mesa Long Range, Weathrby Mark V Accuamark, or a Bergara Premier. Or maybe there is a better option, I would like to be $2500 or less for the gun not including optics. I'm not going to shoot competitively but would like to have a good 1000 yard setup. Fairly experienced shooter, however new to the semi custom/custom market for a rifle and most of my rifle hunts in Missouri cap at 300 on whitetail so this is somewhat of a different need, we shoot out further but mostly just for fun.

Thanks in advance

The .300 WM is an excellent choice of chambering and excuse for adding into your inventory list. Load it with 215 Berger and you're golden. You have some fine choices. Savage rifles are hard to beat for their out of the box accuracy and their DIY friendliness. They have several offerings that might suit your upcoming hunt, i.e. https://www.savagearms.com/content?p=firearms&a=product_summary&s=57563

Good luck!