Truing a Rem 700 Dial in Check.

Rarely are the front and rear the same diameter. They sell a reamer to ream them to an equal 0.705" , then you bush the bolt to 0.705" and cam it so it hits 0.705" in the locked or closed position. A difference of only .005" is not unusual. Seen them much worse most likely from ware. The reason why we check and true the receiver MINIMIZE vibrations from the beginning.
 
My mandrel has the 705 cutter on it but I only use it if I'm going to bush the bolt. I really have not seen thAt big an improvement in accuracy with the bushed or sleeved bolt.
Shep
 
You will never find a 700 thats perfectly straight. The only way to find center of a warped hole is a full diameter mandrel. The rod and bushing setup ads variables, runout in the bushings, more clearances and only tells you a center between 2 points, it wont account for the warpage between them. I found it to be a lousy way to do the job and checking the results proved it. Because they are all warped slightly you never have a loose end, just pick the rod thats snug. If you had to dial between 2 points you would want to make sure the bore was straight. Thats why some are honing the bore before indicating. You need to have a action really dialed if you expect to actually improve it. I true up some tight actions as well, and the tighter the bolt fit the more critical this gets. The lug seat have to be better than .0002" for square to get even lug contact, and thats assuming the bolt is perfect and there is no warp. You can get away with a little more slop with a loose fitting bolt. I have checked a lot of trued actions as well as customs. Dont assume nice clean cuts mean square.
 
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You can be lucky. I bought a Rem 700 receiver very cheaply and a couple of years later I managed to find a bolt for sale. Fortunately the bolt would not fit in the receiver without lapping the two together so now I have one very tight snug action on my bench gun.
 
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