How important is truing threads on a rem 700 action?

[brguide]

I used to use a jig but found I was inducing stress on barrels and actions. So I went with the true bore alignment system. I believe it is the only way to truly hold the action, barrel, bolt to not induce any stress.

 

[Mram10us]

I understand how to do it. Just trying to find out if there is a proven advantage on paper. Seen most of the YouTube vids. I like the suar guy. Quiet and laidback

 

[Tucker65]

I true them up in my Haas mini mill. This is a test run on a piece of brass machined to duplicate a 700 action. I put a nice fitting mandrel in the bore that sticks out about 8" and get that dialed in. Then I cut all the faces true with each other then thread mill the threads .010 - .015 oversize.

 

[bigngreen]

I understand how to do it. Just trying to find out if there is a proven advantage on paper. Seen most of the YouTube vids. I like the suar guy. Quiet and laidback

The how is important in that you can take a Rem and dial it in to zeros and true it and you have not improved a thing since the work holding and tooling are not up to producing results any better than factory, you won't see any benefits to any of the work if it hasn't actually changed anything but surface finish so when they shoot it they see nothing changed which means it's worthless, MAYBE way more important than doing it is doing it right and with qualified tooling and work holding.

 

[Schutzprecision]

I have blueprinted approx 30 Remington receivers. I start by reaming the raceways oversize with a ptg piloted reamer. I have found the threads needed to be cut .01 to .02 oversize to be concentric and perpendicular to receiver raceways. I just did 2 new RR prefix receivers and the threads had to be cut .015 oversize to clean up and be concentric. If you put a good quality barrel on a trued receiver it's easy to obtain good repeatable accuracy. Just my humble opinion. Your mileage may vary.

 

[Mram10us]

The how is important in that you can take a Rem and dial it in to zeros and true it and you have not improved a thing since the work holding and tooling are not up to producing results any better than factory, you won't see any benefits to any of the work if it hasn't actually changed anything but surface finish so when they shoot it they see nothing changed which means it's worthless, MAYBE way more important than doing it is doing it right and with qualified tooling and work holding.

Of course it has to be done right and with the correct tooling. That goes without saying. Wanting to see if anyone has results

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Rhian is steering you in the right direction. At one time I sold ground/hardened mandrel sets, using full diameter mandrels and holding only the front ring is the only way I found to true and action to my satisfaction. I have checked a lot of "trued" actions and I can see why many dont think it helps.
I am sent rifles a few times a year that are not shooting competitively in Benchrest. Usually these guys have multiple barrels, scopes, exc, and are about ready to give up on the rifle. In just about every case the problem is in the action. The action is the most important part of the rifle and it will determine how good of a barrel you get. In my opinion you need to build off of the the very best made/designed action you can. Or put the work into your action to bring it to that level. Saving a few hundred may potentially hold the rifle back its entire life. But to directly answer your question. On a scale of whats important in an action, threads are at the bottom of the list.

 

[Mram10us]

Rhian is steering you in the right direction. At one time I sold ground/hardened mandrel sets, using full diameter mandrels and holding only the front ring is the only way I found to true and action to my satisfaction. I have checked a lot of "trued" actions and I can see why many dont think it helps.
I am sent rifles a few times a year that are not shooting competitively in Benchrest. Usually these guys have multiple barrels, scopes, exc, and are about ready to give up on the rifle. In just about every case the problem is in the action. The action is the most important part of the rifle and it will determine how good of a barrel you get. In my opinion you need to build off of the the very best made/designed action you can. Or put the work into your action to bring it to that level. Saving a few hundred may potentially hold the rifle back its entire life. But to directly answer your question. On a scale of whats important in an action, threads are at the bottom of the list.

Alex, do you have a pic of your setup? I would like to get mine made up and will probably copy yours, if you don't mind

 

[D-mon]

So did Gordy Gritter got it wrong all these years with his trueing jig?

 

[sp6x6]

And if you take Alex and read between the lines,custom actions are not always,spot on.

 

[B23]

And if you take Alex and read between the lines,custom actions are not always,spot on.

I've been told on many occasion by different very good gunsmiths that custom actions aren't always spot on and some are consistently worse than others.

Also been told the newer Rem 700's are better than the older ones. For you guys that work on these things, are the newer 700's better than the older ones?

 

[bigngreen]

Personally I think the front of the RR actions are better BUT the bolts are a mess IMO, you almost can't find one with primary extraction and I've had to do more extractors on them than I can count. I'd rather do more action work than moving handles and extractors so I prefer the older Rems to work on.

 

[Schutzprecision]

Personally I think the front of the RR actions are better BUT the bolts are a mess IMO, you almost can't find one with primary extraction and I've had to do more extractors on them than I can count. I'd rather do more action work than moving handles and extractors so I prefer the older Rems to work on.

The new rr prefix actions have virtually no primary extraction. I buy stripped actions and put in ptg one piece bolts with m16 extractors as part of the blueprint process. This solves the primary extraction issues.

 

[Capt RB]

Bigngreen Alex or anyone else, how important os bolt sleeving or adding borden bumps to minimize the sear induced bot lift while in battery? Do you true the raceway and sleeve/add bumps or just use a larger bolt body?
Thanks in advance