Regarding holding the front and rear, what if you use small brass heads so there is a bit of pivoting? could that help avoid bending? I use a piece of wire around the barrel shank when machining for that reason and it's never slipped
Precision tooling isn't soft, brass and aluminum will conform to the raceway and will raise burs throwing it of.I definitely can't make things to JGS tolerances Raises the question, do we want something harder than the raceways put in there? Would aluminum or brass work?
700 Remington actions are like small block Chevys... Stock they both shoot/run ok. Square em up/blueprint em, They'll outshoot/outrun EVERYBODY in town
They aren't poorly made, we are just trying to pull every bit of performance out of them. Plus, we are always comparing them to customs. I don't see a problem with bolt lift. Ive Had two weak extractors out of lots of 700s. One was my fault for mixing up the bolts while cerakoting 3 setups. Lots of wind to say rems aren't poorly madeGoodness! If the Remington 700 action is so poorly made that it has to be reworked basically from scratch, why not buy a better action. Bolt lift, bad threads, weak extractor and such are interesting and a great source of revenue for gunsmiths. I am not concerned with all of that as I just use a standard unmodified action (Savage, Ruger or Remington) and put my effort into the quality of the barrel and chamber. I set the headspace using the Savage barrel nut system on my actions and find that resolves all the issues. A great barrel-chamber, properly headspace and attached to an action that is securely held in a rigid stock works great. Just my two cents.
Did you make that boat anchor on your 10" lathe? Sorry Frank, couldn't resist beautiful car
Come on, some of us die hard Olds guys don't exactly agree lol!! Sorry about the hijack, carry on.
For you guys, like JE and bigngreen, do you think there are advantages/disadvantages pros/cons to single point truing VS using a tap? Hopefully I stated that correctly and you know what I mean.